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1966 Steering Help

KalBronco

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New Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2026
Messages
7
Scenario:
1966 all original front end including; steering linkage, drag link, pit arm, radius arms, manual steering box, steering column but with steering stabilizer added. All new bushings and ridding on 265/75R16 tires and wheels with a modest suspension lift of maybe 1.5 inches, via coils and springs only, but also a body lifted off the frame with 2 inch risers.

Issue: front wheels and tires wobble a bit around 45 mph but smooth out over that and a little play in the steering wheel.

Looking to improve front end stability without moving too far away from the original set up.

I’d greatly appreciate hearing your experiences and any advice/solutions.
 

ksagis

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Aspiring Bronco Guru
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Austin
Seems like balance or wheel trueness to me.

Age of tires okay, balance good? Wheels checked out?
 
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K

KalBronco

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Seems like balance or wheel trueness to me.

Age of tires okay, balance good? Wheels checked out?
Very good point. Tires are about 5 years old but she does sit in the garage for a few weeks without being driven so there could be some flat spots that could require a rebalance. Wheels are solid.
I was planning on getting all tires rebalanced. It’ll help for sure.

But I’d still like to think about some part replacements that will help control the larger wheels and tires.
 

SteveL

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Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,969
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
With the bronco not running, have a buddy turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the components and see where the play is. If you need a drag link make sure it's for a 66 or the pita hole will be too small.
 
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KalBronco

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With the bronco not running, have a buddy turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the components and see where the play is. If you need a drag link make sure it's for a 66 or the pita hole will be too small.
Much appreciated. I’ll give that a go.
Will after market “beefer” drag link arms vs original help with stability and control?
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,613
Generally, yes they will. That said, you might not even be able to find an original style any longer.
If yours is actually original, aside from being part miracle(!) it will have a spring-tensioned upper rod end at the steering box/pitman arm end.
Those were not even available starting nearly 30 years ago, but I haven't kept up on that, so don't know if anyone is either reproducing them, or has found some old rebuild kits on an old dusty shelf somewhere. Maybe eBay will be your friend on this.
Otherwise, pretty much EVERY aftermarket version is going to be beefier and have less play right out of the box. Going with "sotck" replacements will likely be slightly better, but true aftermarket upgrades are usually larger diameter, and sometimes even use better materials.
But none of them will retain that original appearance.

I would not at this point anyway, dwell too much on the originality, since you're already body AND suspension lifted, with tires that are not even remotely the same as were original. So even with uncut fenders (are yours still original here too?) it no longer has all of it's mechanical originality.

Steering boxes are available, but no longer new unless, here again, someone has started reproducing originals. Old ones can be rebuilt, but some seem to have varying results. I bought a brand new one from Ford in about '80 or so, and was shocked at how much better if felt than my only 9 year old original. But those days are long gone I'm pretty sure.
Which is one of the reasons we (Wild Horses that is) dwell more on the new and rebuilt power steering upgrade systems. They're far from original (though we have those too sometimes) but they're better, so "original" is not as big a deal when you're looking for more fun driving it. Especially with larger tires.

But no matter what, definitely do the test that was described above. Leave the full weight of the vehicle on the tires and on the ground. Don't lift it up to inspect. Just use the power of the steering wheel to torque against the weight of the truck. This highlights anything that's loose. Just about anywhere on the whole vehicle!

Have fun.
Oh, and we'd love to see pics of this (presumably) low mileage(?) '66 you've got! We love pics, but especially when there might be something special to "I spy" underneath or under the hood.
Do you know what month it was built in? Have you drilled down into the VIN to see what other info you can find out? We've got a great thread here somewhere that is keeping track of the early '66 models that are known to exist.
Hopefully it's still got it's data plate riveted to the driver's kick panel. I know others would like to see what info is available.

Paul
 
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KalBronco

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Jun 11, 2026
Messages
7
Generally, yes they will. That said, you might not even be able to find an original style any longer.
If yours is actually original, aside from being part miracle(!) it will have a spring-tensioned upper rod end at the steering box/pitman arm end.
Those were not even available starting nearly 30 years ago, but I haven't kept up on that, so don't know if anyone is either reproducing them, or has found some old rebuild kits on an old dusty shelf somewhere. Maybe eBay will be your friend on this.
Otherwise, pretty much EVERY aftermarket version is going to be beefier and have less play right out of the box. Going with "sotck" replacements will likely be slightly better, but true aftermarket upgrades are usually larger diameter, and sometimes even use better materials.
But none of them will retain that original appearance.

I would not at this point anyway, dwell too much on the originality, since you're already body AND suspension lifted, with tires that are not even remotely the same as were original. So even with uncut fenders (are yours still original here too?) it no longer has all of it's mechanical originality.

Steering boxes are available, but no longer new unless, here again, someone has started reproducing originals. Old ones can be rebuilt, but some seem to have varying results. I bought a brand new one from Ford in about '80 or so, and was shocked at how much better if felt than my only 9 year old original. But those days are long gone I'm pretty sure.
Which is one of the reasons we (Wild Horses that is) dwell more on the new and rebuilt power steering upgrade systems. They're far from original (though we have those too sometimes) but they're better, so "original" is not as big a deal when you're looking for more fun driving it. Especially with larger tires.

But no matter what, definitely do the test that was described above. Leave the full weight of the vehicle on the tires and on the ground. Don't lift it up to inspect. Just use the power of the steering wheel to torque against the weight of the truck. This highlights anything that's loose. Just about anywhere on the whole vehicle!

Have fun.
Oh, and we'd love to see pics of this (presumably) low mileage(?) '66 you've got! We love pics, but especially when there might be something special to "I spy" underneath or under the hood.
Do you know what month it was built in? Have you drilled down into the VIN to see what other info you can find out? We've got a great thread here somewhere that is keeping track of the early '66 models that are known to exist.
Hopefully it's still got it's data plate riveted to the driver's kick panel. I know others would like to see what info is available.

Paul
Thank you Paul. Very helpful.
My U13 was manufactured in October of 65 according to the VIN. The rear wheel wells have been cut but the original 170cc engine and drive train are all in tack. I won’t be making any changes to any of that.
Driving a three in the tree is one of my favorite things about this roadster.
I’ll post a couple of pics for sure.
 
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KalBronco

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DirtDonk

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Extremely cool! Thanks for the pics.
The good news is your Steering linkage looks to have already been updated. At least the drag link is not factory. So it might also be new enough to not be worn out as well.
So doing the test will tell you whether the slop is in the steering column, the steering box, or somewhere else.
But it’s all readily available and not super expensive (yet).
 
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KalBronco

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Extremely cool! Thanks for the pics.
The good news is your Steering linkage looks to have already been updated. At least the drag link is not factory. So it might also be new enough to not be worn out as well.
So doing the test will tell you whether the slop is in the steering column, the steering box, or somewhere else.
But it’s all readily available and not super expensive (yet).

Extremely cool! Thanks for the pics.
The good news is your Steering linkage looks to have already been updated. At least the drag link is not factory. So it might also be new enough to not be worn out as well.
So doing the test will tell you whether the slop is in the steering column, the steering box, or somewhere else.
But it’s all readily available and not super expensive (yet).
Thank you for all the information. I’ll work through all the suggestions and will find the best solution. Much appreciated!
 

bmbm

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Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
754
Scenario:
1966 all original front end including; steering linkage, drag link, pit arm, radius arms, manual steering box, steering column but with steering stabilizer added. All new bushings and ridding on 265/75R16 tires and wheels with a modest suspension lift of maybe 1.5 inches, via coils and springs only, but also a body lifted off the frame with 2 inch risers.

Issue: front wheels and tires wobble a bit around 45 mph but smooth out over that and a little play in the steering wheel.

Looking to improve front end stability without moving too far away from the original set up.

I’d greatly appreciate hearing your experiences and any advice/solutions.
Your steering box is likely loose from all the years of use. I may be wrong but for some reason I am under the impression that the steering box may have a method to adjust it a bit to reduce some play. Is your alignment in order? Lifting a Bronco can also change the geometry in the front end but usually more so with higher lifts like 2.5" and above.
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
51,613
Just an additional comment, regarding something that most of us have changed over the years. Some of us right after we bought our Broncos!
The factory battery orientation puts the positive lug right there under the fender lip, as you can see in your picture. Nothing actually "wrong" with this, and there were probably even good reasons for it. But in the real world of tinkering (and getting in accidents or hitting obstacles while off-roading), many of us have found it's better/safer/funner/gooder to replace the battery with the reverse oriented terminals. Putting the negative there under all that sheet metal.
Most of us just do it when it's time to replace the battery anyway.
But it makes wrenching on things much less exciting, when you don't have flying sparks accompanying your work.

In fact, that might be one of the reasons for the Ford orientation. It's much easier to remove the negative terminal/lug, with it there next to the radiator. And since you're always supposed to remove the negative first, it makes sense.
But with the positive being so close to sheet metal, it's far too easy to lay something down next to it and have it touch the two together. Flying sparks!

Just a comment, to let you decide which way to go next time you need a new battery.

Paul
 

okie4570

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NW OK
Drive it every day for a week for about 15 min and see if it's jusy flat spots on the tires from sitting. My 66 u14 does this, 5yo radials.
 
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