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1971 bronco instrument cluster lights

jacob1963

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
86
New owner of a 71 bronco, all gauges work appropriately but no cluster lights. The blinker lights work and high beam seem to work fine. Notice today I have no power on either side of the instrument cluster fuse. I'm lost, assuming good ground since blinker lights flash. One of the bulbs were burnt would this cause my problem. Also my gas tank is disconnect at the moment. Have turned switch in both directions w no luck. Thanks in advance.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,448
Try turning the headlight switch knob with the lights on. If that doesn't get some power to the fuse you need a new switch.
 
OP
OP
J

jacob1963

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
86
Tried both ways with not luck. Which way should be brightest? Rt before the dome lights would come on? Also where is are the orginal interior lights located? I have dome lights on he top, but seem to be added with a toggle switch under the dash. Thanks
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,448
Right before the click should be brightest. '71 wouldn't have any interior lights except maybe an optional map light under the dash.
 

PaveBronco

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
914
I had the same problem once, turns out one of the wires in the rats nest of old wires was the ground, once I hooked that back up everything worked good. I thought they were just grounded through the case..guess not
This is a great link, Viperwolf1 posted a while ago, helps big time.

Edit: yeah forgot the link...

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/890070
 
Last edited:

DJs74

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Messages
1,135
I had the same problem on my '74 when I first got it - none of the instrument cluster bulbs worked.

Because I was doing a restore anyway, I ended up taking the entire cluster out, giving it a thorough cleaning, replaced all the bulbs and installed a new headlight switch. When I put it all back together - all the lights worked properly. I believe my issue was a combination of bulbs burned out and the headlight switch was shot internally.

What I did: took the vent box completely out of the driver's side to get good access to the rear of the instrument cluster - I also took a few photos through the vent opening & from the floor board brake pedal area and drew up a diagram so I got all the wiring hooked back up correctly.

Just FYI - the headlight switch has a spring loaded pin that has to be depressed in order to pull the knob/shaft assembly out of the switch, then you simply remove the bezel nut and the switch comes out.

Good luck,

DJs74
 
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OP
J

jacob1963

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
86
So I explored the wire a lil more and for the age is not in bad shape other thenA few add ons over the years. Anyway I found there is a yellow and either gray or faded blk wire coming from the voltage reg with just a pigtail not connected to anything. Also the horn is not blowing I have power to the horn plate and when making connect get just a clicking sound from the dash area? What could this be? Thanks
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,448
So I explored the wire a lil more and for the age is not in bad shape other thenA few add ons over the years. Anyway I found there is a yellow and either gray or faded blk wire coming from the voltage reg with just a pigtail not connected to anything. Also the horn is not blowing I have power to the horn plate and when making connect get just a clicking sound from the dash area? What could this be? Thanks
Should be a yellow wire with battery voltage on it connected to the A terminal of the regulator. There was also a suppression capacitor connected to that terminal with another short yellow wire. You can get by without the capacitor but don't let the wire short to ground.

Horn switch has 12v on yellow wire. Blue-yellow wire is switched 12v out to the horn.
 
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