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1975 Bronco project resurrected

thegreatjustino

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Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
16,006
Loc.
Stockton, CA
The one you got from Jeff's is not even close to correct. All of the vendors sell adjustable trac bars. Call them and ask. Heck, I got a used Superlift one years ago, so even the larger companies sold them at one time.
 
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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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Question for the electrical guys. I realize on a fiberglass tub grounding may be an issue. I'm trying to get this rig to light up after 12 years and not having any luck. Good grounds from the battery to the engine, frame, front clip and dash.

It has the original factory wiring harness, I think I've got everything hooked up correctly. But, when I turn the key....nothing. I have no power to any of the fuses. I'm wondering if any of the electrical guys know of a silver bullet that could take down the entire fuse panel?

Thanks in advance, Matt
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Battery positive to left side of the starter solenoid. Next to that is the main power wire running up to the dash to the fuse box and starter switch then off to the amp guage and back to the alternator charge stud. The wire end going to the solnoid has a fuseable link to protect the harness. This is a common fail point so check it carefully. On my 1974 the power wires go up the harness and there is a disconnect plug just before the firewall. If your harness has this plug check its connection.
 
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buckroseau

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Battery positive to left side of the starter solenoid. Next to that is the main power wire running up to the dash to the fuse box and starter switch then off to the amp guage and back to the alternator charge stud. The wire end going to the solnoid has a fuseable link to protect the harness. This is a common fail point so check it carefully. On my 1974 the power wires go up the harness and there is a disconnect plug just before the firewall. If your harness has this plug check its connection.

Are you referring to this yellow wire coming off the solenoid? I see no fuse able link in this wire?

There is a disconnect plug in the harness prior to going through the firewall, but this is for the voltage regulator I believe. Currently missing the plastic housing on the voltage regulator side for the time being.

Matt
 

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buckroseau

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These are the wires coming out of the fuse panel.
 

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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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Can you clarify where the fuse able link is? And color of wire? I'm seeing it in the wiring schematics online but I'm not seeing it?

Thanks Matt
 

Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
http://www.bronco.com/graphics/diagrams/75_77wd1.gif

The factory would have had a black with red tracer hooked with a fuzeable link at the solenoid. This runs up through the amp gauge and ties into the fuse block and eventually runs back to the alternator. A cruel and miserable loop. Are you running anything other than the stock alternator and voltage regulator? Your wiring right at the starter solenoid doesnt look stock.
 
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buckroseau

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http://www.bronco.com/graphics/diagrams/75_77wd1.gif

The factory would have had a black with red tracer hooked with a fuzeable link at the solenoid. This runs up through the amp gauge and ties into the fuse block and eventually runs back to the alternator. A cruel and miserable loop. Are you running anything other than the stock alternator and voltage regulator? Your wiring right at the starter solenoid doesnt look stock.

Life is hard, it's harder if your stupid. I think I got it figured out, thanks for the help. The fuseable link was right in front of me, but since it was all black I kept assuming it was a ground. Once hooked up to the hot side the truck turned over right away.

I'm running a stock alternator and voltage regulator, nothing fancy. As far as not looking stock, I didn't take this apart so I'm not sure what I'm looking at sometimes.

Matt
 

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buckroseau

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Next question for the brake guru's. I dug out the old and new brake lines. Again, keep in mind I didn't take any of this apart. I think I have somewhat of an understanding of where some of the brake lines go. Is there any info out there on this, or pics? Or can someone guide me on where these brackets mount to in the pics?

Thanks, Matt
 

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stout22

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Dec 13, 2006
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2,888
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Athens, AL
2nd picture appears to be the passenger front with the flex going to the wheel. I believe the "floating" bracket bolts to the outside of the track arm bracket on the D44.
3rd picture is the driver front with the paired flex lines going to the MC. Proportioning block bolts to the frame.
4th picture is the center section for the D44. The differential vent fitting goes thru the hole in the brass block.
Last picture is the frame line that runs from the proportioning block back to the 9". It needs to be straightened.
My computer isn't displaying the pictures any larger for some reason so I'm squinting to try to see things.
Lay all your new hard lines out with the old and should be able to figure which pair up.
 

stout22

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Athens, AL
2nd picture appears to be the passenger front with the flex going to the wheel. The "floating" bracket should mount to the outside of the track bar bracket on the front axle.
3rd picture is the driver front with the paired flex lines going to the MC. The proportioning block mounts to the frame.
4th picture is the center section for the front axle. The differential vent fitting goes thru the hole in the brass block.
Last picture is the frame line that runs from the proportioning block back to the 9". Just straighten it out.
Lay all your new hard lines out with the old and should be able to figure which pair up.
My computer is not letting me zoom on the pics so I'm squinting and guessing.
 
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buckroseau

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Thanks for the help, brake lines are in. Everything went great except for the 1 line that they sent for the proportioning valve to the block on the frame. It was a small loop in the shape of a triangle. Because of the spacer on the exhaust manifold I ended up having to get medieval on that one. Other than that all the new ones fit great.

Now, the next round of questions.

1st pic which I drew a red circle on: Does the brake line running to the rear and the rear rubber hose mount through that bracket welded on the frame? I can make it, but with the 2.5" lift the hose is pretty tight, I will end up having to order a longer one. Just need to know.

The other pics are a bit random. I have some new clips to mount the fuel line and brake link to the frame. Is the brake line on the top of the fuel line or bottom? Any specific holes? Does the brake and fuel line run on top of the transmission x-member? That's the way I ran the hard fuel line and brake line, above it, seemed to want to be there.

Pitman arm on the steering sector, any tips on getting it off? I've got a drop arm I need to install. I had a 3 jaw puller on it tonight hard and was beating it from the top with a bar and BFH, couldn't get it to move. I was going to heat it up with the acetylene torch, but I'm worried I'm going to cook a seal out of it.



Please provide feedback if you can. It may seem simple, but its a big help for someone who's not familiar with this or didn't take it apart.

Thanks, Matt
 

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71 CA Bronco

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Nov 25, 2015
Messages
764
The brake line does need to go through the bracket. It runs inside to outside then to axle. If I remember right there is a clip that holds it in place. You will need an extended brake line to run to the axle. Its made for lifts. All the vendors sell them.

I'm not sure on the brake/fuel lines. Mine goes over the cross member.

I would use a good penetrating oil on the pitman and a heavy duty puller. Maybe pull off the steering box, lube it, and try a slide hammer.

My 2 cents worth...
 
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buckroseau

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Could someone take a few pics of the front seat bracket on the drivers left side. The one I have is destroyed. I'm more than capable of fabbing a new one, wondering if it's a mirror image of the one on the right drivers side.

Thanks, Matt
 

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WILDHORSES

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Could someone take a few pics of the front seat bracket on the drivers left side. The one I have is destroyed. I'm more than capable of fabbing a new one, wondering if it's a mirror image of the one on the right drivers side.

Thanks, Matt

Not even a mirror. It's exactly the same as the one on the other side.

Jim
 
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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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Not even a mirror. It's exactly the same as the one on the other side.

Jim


Thanks for the info Jim. With that knowledge I went out and cut off the bend up steel, fabbed up some new steel and scabbed it onto the old bracket. Looks fairly factory.

Next question: What are my seat options? I would like to use the factory seats, but I am a very, very TALL guy. I heard a tilt column out of a 78/79 bronco would bolt right it, is that correct? Do people also move the factory seats further back? I have to drill holes in the floor anyway. I am planning on putting in a factory rear bench for my kids, will moving the front seats back effect that in anyway?

Thanks, Matt
 

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Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Some people move the seats back, some people remove the side tank and drop the floor level down to the foot pan height giving more options for seats and seat height. Some people do the windshield frame flip so they can see overhead lights.
 
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buckroseau

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Some people move the seats back, some people remove the side tank and drop the floor level down to the foot pan height giving more options for seats and seat height. Some people do the windshield frame flip so they can see overhead lights.

Can you confirm the column thing, will a 78/79 Bronco tilt column bolt right in?

Matt
 
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buckroseau

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Next question. What is this latch for on the passenger side seat?
 

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