1977 Ranger Rebuild - Frame Off?

[noreasteb]

Hello all, I am writing this post to share my project and look for any advice. I have been a member of this site for a while but I tend to do a LOT of reading and not too much posting here. Everybody on this site has unbelievable tips and recommendations resulting in my continuous browsing of the site.

Anyhow, I haven gotten myself in far beyond what I had ever expected or ever done before. It all started with the idea of swapping out my very tired 302 with a 5.0 in my 1977 EB Ranger. (More on that later). After removing the engine in the spring of 2007 I started poking around at some small rust areas and discovered it was spreading like a rash.

A year later I had removed everything from the underside of the body and was planning on some spot sand blasting to remove the rust and expose the body seams to repair and protect with some POR 15. I couldn’t stop and now have the entire undercarriage, frame, inner fender-wells, axles and such all blasted clean.

Then I thought, well, it would be really easy to put a nice riding suspension system in at this point. I saved a few bucks over the year and just received my 3.5” BCB front coils and 9-pack rear leafs as well as front shock hoops, inboard rear shock hoop along with all the bushings and accessories which go with it.

I have marine cleaned all bare surfaces and applied metal ready, but realize that when it comes to painting (which I know nothing about) I think the frame will get in the way of doing a thorough job. I do plan on putting a 1” BL on as the 31 year old rubber bushings are cracked and beyond their useful life.

The question is, should I just keep getting deeper and remove the frame from the body to do the job right or just paint the frame and underside of the body all at once?

I am feeling a little overwhelmed, but am having a great time doing this so far and have great expectations.

Any comments, recommendations or questions on this so-called build are welcome.

Thanks, Seth

 

[hammer]

If your just going to do it all black than I would just do it with the frame on as it is right now. Drop the 9" out, you'll need to to installl your lift anyways. Mask and bomb away.

 

[Broncoholic1]

You have it up in the air already, Your replacing the body mounts right? ar you doing it one at a time?
Jack it up lower the frame and have at it Remember it is winter, Do a job big or small do it right or not at all!

 

[Broncoholic1]

Once the job has begun do not stop until it's done!

 

[trailpsycho]

You are already pretty far in there. I know you have read great things about POR-15 and it is a good product. But, at this point you should consider a good epoxy DP90 and topcoat, whether you go with further separating the frame and tub or not. I would go ahead and separate them. Support the tub well where it is ( a bit higher and then you can possibly slide the frame out (with some help). I would separate them, if only to get a throrough cleaning of the frame (get the sand out) and a thorough prep and painting of it.

While its out you can address the tub where it mounts to the frame. Clean, prep and paint those areas. Then wrap the frame in plastic...like the long rolls used to pack during moving...(I used this after sand-blasting to transport my frame to be hot-dip galvanized and it worked great). Then remount the two together to be able to transport or handle the tub without worries...unless you can find/rent a rotisserie. With that in mind, what are your plans for the rest of the body/exterior? The wrap will allow you to then prep, paint, bedliner or whatever to the bottom of the tub without worrying about getting crap, drips, overspray, etc on the fresh frame. When done, you can just peel, trim the plastic wrap off the frame...without needing to reseparate them.

As deep as you are...materials are what will make this build adequate VS great. Consider looking at a true primer, top-coat system for the frame and or a primer-bedliner system for the tub.

It looks like you are doing really good work so far. Have fun.

 

[Broncoholic1]

I agree the Por 15 is good for a rusty frame It will not adhere to a bare clean frame, Self etching epoxy primer is the wat to go. When you are done clear coat it foe easy touch ups. Or take it out and have it dipped. Be sure to clean the inside of your rails. If you use POR 15 use it on the inside of the raile where you cannot get to just get an under coating 3' tip and slather it in there till it runs out.

 

[noreasteb]

Thanks for the recommendations so far. I had read some on POR 15 and even more after purchasing the materials. From what I have read, an epoxy style paint is the best. Are these paints 2 part? Can epoxy paints be sprayed from a typical gun or do I need something special?

As far as the exterior, I know it will have to be repainted, but that will be at least another year away ($$$). I would like to topcoat the underside of the tub a duller copper color than the exterior and keep the frame, axles etc black.

 

[Broncoholic1]

Most Epoxy paints are a 2 part no special gun needed. Maybe get a primer gun to shoot the frame rails and convert your tip to an under coating wand. For Por 15.
Do not use a good gun for it, Eastwood has all the stuff you need as far as Guns and wands. Good luck. Looks good
Keep at it to keep it fresh.

 

[bronco italiano]

Take the frame off. You are way deep and you'll be amazed at how much easier it is to get all those other items done wihtout a body on. Are youin CA? If so you can use my frame jig for your body. Looks good. BI

 

[muskrat]

removing sand from inside of frame

You are already pretty far in there. I know you have read great things about POR-15 and it is a good product. But, at this point you should consider a good epoxy DP90 and topcoat, whether you go with further separating the frame and tub or not. I would go ahead and separate them. Support the tub well where it is ( a bit higher and then you can possibly slide the frame out (with some help). I would separate them, if only to get a throrough cleaning of the frame (get the sand out) and a thorough prep and painting of it.

While its out you can address the tub where it mounts to the frame. Clean, prep and paint those areas. Then wrap the frame in plastic...like the long rolls used to pack during moving...(I used this after sand-blasting to transport my frame to be hot-dip galvanized and it worked great). Then remount the two together to be able to transport or handle the tub without worries...unless you can find/rent a rotisserie. With that in mind, what are your plans for the rest of the body/exterior? The wrap will allow you to then prep, paint, bedliner or whatever to the bottom of the tub without worrying about getting crap, drips, overspray, etc on the fresh frame. When done, you can just peel, trim the plastic wrap off the frame...without needing to reseparate them.

As deep as you are...materials are what will make this build adequate VS great. Consider looking at a true primer, top-coat system for the frame and or a primer-bedliner system for the tub.

It looks like you are doing really good work so far. Have fun.

I've read a few times to remove the sand or abrasive material from inside the frame. I plan on sandblasting my frame but leaving the engine in. How do you remove the abrasive material that has gotten into the frame? Blow it out? Please let me know.
Thanks.

 

[muskrat]

sand blasting frame

You're in now. Keep going. Question for the group. I've read a few times to make sure that you get the sand or abrasive material out of the frame after blasting. I plan on blasting my frame but don't plan on removing the motor. How do I get the abrasive material out of the frame? Blow it out? Please let me know.

 

[tasker]

I'm not that far away and could always come down and give you a hand....nothing like a good reason to see some more Broncos!

 

[noreasteb]

I'm not that far away and could always come down and give you a hand....nothing like a good reason to see some more Broncos!

Always looking for help, especially those who have some bronco experience. Thnaks for the offer Tasker. I am also hoping to make to BYOB this coming year (probably not with the Bronco)

 

[noreasteb]

Hope all had a good Christmas. I was surpised that with all the OBVIOUS hints nobody got my anything bronco related. Maybe they figureed they did not want to feed the sickness (as they call it).

Anyhow, I guess my next step is to remove the frame. I was thinking of wrapping the frame before I remove and paint the underside of the body along the outside of the frame rails first, then support the body with some oak beams that I have, remove the frame and finish painting the underside of the body. I think that with the beams in place I will not be able to paint much of the body outside the frame. Does this sound right or should I try to do all the painting at once to have a monolithic coating? (I stay up at night thinking of these things ... sickness )

 

[Mark]

POR15 adheres very well to sandblasted metal.
You must use their Metal Ready product.

 

[reamer]

Moosup? are you in CT like I am?
Reamer. '76 Ranger PAckage

 

[4lofun]

if removing frame, paint all at once. i painted my underside and truckbed lined with frame there. i jacked body off from frame and gained more room.was still difficult but got it done, i painted frame last, but can do either way just cover what not being painted.maybe a byob party is in order.worked well for teardown party.it is possible to get done for byob, with good planning. i kmnow about money short, but anythings possible.

 

[noreasteb]

Moosup? are you in CT like I am?
Reamer. '76 Ranger PAckage

Ya, I moved from RI to Moosup, CT in 2005. The main reason for the move was to purchase my 1st house with a 2 car garage specifically for my rig. Where in CT are you?

 

[noreasteb]

if removing frame, paint all at once. i painted my underside and truckbed lined with frame there. i jacked body off from frame and gained more room.was still difficult but got it done, i painted frame last, but can do either way just cover what not being painted.maybe a byob party is in order.worked well for teardown party.it is possible to get done for byob, with good planning. i kmnow about money short, but anythings possible.

Good point, I think a BYOB party may be in order

 

[Buldozer]

Someone else touched on it, but I will second the body off approach. Not much work at all to get the body off and it will decrease the suspension work by half IMO. Build up your frame, running gear and drive train complete, then put the body back on with your new body mounts. Just my $0.02.