1988 foxbody swap

[dr_brewer]

1988 foxbody swap?
Hi,

My '73 302 has been misfiring. I did a compression test today. Results were between 95-110 with most right at 100. This seems low to me?

I have a good deal on an '88 foxbody with 80k miles on it for $200. It will need a gasket kit and to be put back together. Is this a good option to drop into my bronco?

Is it a simple swap with no surprises? Good deal? My apologies for my ignorance. I am trying to learn.

I also found a good deal on a Cleveland (freshly machined), but I understand this to be a tight fit and more complicated.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Dave

PS-I mistakenly posted this in the general chat section. Should I delete that thread and how do I do that?

 

[DirtDonk]

Nah, if you haven't already posted it over in tech, it's fine here. We all use both anyway, but if it's really tech related, you can get Jon (admin) to move it lock stock and answer later.

So '88 would be EFI then, correct? You going to use the injection stuff, or swap it back to carbureted?
The Clevelands aren't that bad of a swap, but they're certainly not as direct as replacing one 302 with another. Even if it has a different designation (5.0) it's still 95% the same. Clevelands are cool, but yes, more work.

However, if you go with EFI then you're still into it for more work and time. So while it's still not a wash (5.0 is still easier in my book) it's not exactly drop-n-drive either.

$200 bucks is hard to pass up for sure. Did that year come with a full 6-digit odometer? Or could that be 180,000 miles? Probably not, but I wanted to make sure.
That's pretty darn low mileage, and I'd be tempted to grab it too.

Good luck. Hopefully others will have more info.

Paul

 

[broncnaz]

Low mileage maybe but why is it apart in the first place? Id be suspect especailly of a foxbody. As was said the 5.0 is probably the better route the C's are cool but may take more $$ to swap in. Id buy the C and flip it. Your biggest worry's with the 5.0 are getting the the correct flywheel or flexplate and hooking up the cooling system and maybe acessesory choice/hookup depending on what setup you go with.
If your getting the complete car than $200 is a great deal it would be a good canidate for a EFI swap.

 

[dr_brewer]

I am sorry, I should have been a bit more specific. The foxbody was in this gentleman's '68 mustang. He sold the mustang and said he started tearing it down to make it a stroker. He seems forthcoming in his ad. Says it is not a running motor and needs a gasket kit. It seems very clean. For $300 I would get...this is his text to me

"To answer your question. Just the motor (from 2 barrel intake to oil pan and both sets of heads) is $250. I also have a carb, 4 barrel intake and Mallory coil box distributor and possibly other parts in the box that I will sell ALL OF IT FOR $300. "

Here is the link to the ad.

http://http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/5479498206.html

Please, forgive my ignorance. Trying to learn.
Dave

 

[sykanr0ng]

Originally the '88 Mustang 5.0L V8 came with EFI, so one with a carb is either pre-'88 or altered and not original.

foxbody is a body type of the Ford Mustang, not an engine.

$200 seems to be a reasonable going price for a builder 302/5.0L these days.
I would not pay much more than that for an engine that is not running, especially with low compression.

 

[Broncomt]

85 is the last naturally aspirated Mustang 302/5.0

 

[jckkys]

I think you mean carbureted. Nearly all Mustangs were naturally aspirated vs. super/turbo charged engines in some Shelbys. After '85 Mustangs were EFI.

 

[cldonley]

Fox bodies were around from 79-93. Could be as simple as the guy buying a 'stang with what he thought was an 88 motor but was an 85, or an 88 motor someone swapped in and carbed instead of doing the EFI. For $300 with 2 extra sets of heads and an extra intake it sounds like a pretty safe bet.

 

[2FAST]

It sounds like the Mustang engine is the typical roller camshaft block from a fox body and someone has changed over to a carburetor. So what you would gain in acquiring this is an engine needing rebuilt but will have the capability of running a roller camshaft. Since it has been torn apart the rings and bearings have been disturbed and should be replaced. If not your just asking for problems sooner or later. The block it's self isn't any stronger and has 2 bolt main caps. To replace a cam in these runs about $100 more than a flat tappet cam so unless your looking for some wild lift and duration you'll never notice the difference in a roller vs. flat lifter camshaft. I'd save the $300 and the extra $150 for a gasket set and build what you have.
I would address the original problem. 100 PSI across doesn't sound too low and if there's no wide variance in the numbers I'd say what you have was okay. Did you do a wet compression test to see if the numbers increased? Do a cylinder balance check and see what this shows. Might be a cracked distributor cap, plugs, wires, rotor ... Something a lot cheaper and easier than rebuilding an engine. Just my $0.02!

Good luck and God bless with whichever direction you go.

 

[brianstrange]

I would stay away, unless you know and trust the seller. If your intentions are to have it rebuilt, that's different. To me, any time an engine is apart, it's a gamble. Not trying to rain on the parade, just give practical advice. Best of luck

 

[mcknight77]

Your compression results show all cylinders with in 10% of each other. That indicates to me that your misfire is not compression related. I'd look at ignition and carb next.

Having been down the road of pulling good engines out for something better/different/just because, I can fervently report it will cost twice as much as you figure it will and take three times longer than you planned.

If your 302 isn't smoking, knocking or fouling plugs then my advice is to just find the misfire and fix it.