2.5" or 3.5" lift

[kcc0521]

I currently have due shocks in the back but I am planning to only run the rear shocks. The James duff shocks are a bit long. My static measurement is 18.5" back shocks on the rear and 17.5 on the front shocks on the rear.

 

[Monster Mike]

I thought about them but their kits seem rather expensive.

Hey kcc, I can help you with any and all questions and concerns you have about James Duff Products.

Our basic 2.5" suspension shown in the link below is $999.95 the largest cost is your new coil and leaf springs. You do pay a little more for them but its for a great cause. Our springs use all american steel and are built right here in the good ole US of A. We try to make or buy everything here state side because we believe in this country and the people in it that make it so great. Plus I may be old fashioned but I really like putting as many usa made parts on an American Classic like the Ford Bronco.

http://www.dufftuff.com/2_5_2_1_2_suspension_lift_kit_early_ford_bronco_p/5000a--.htm

A few other components about this lift I'd like to point out is you'll notice we don't supply a drop trac bar bracket. Instead we supply an adjustable trac bar. You'll notice that some lifts come with certain components and then you need to add/buy additional ones to make small corrections. This lift is all inclusive with no added or extra costs. Typically when you buy a drop trac bar bracket you will also need a drop pitman arm to correct your steering geometry(which in some lifts is an added cost). Drop trac bar brackets need to be welded on then painted and you will need some help removing your original pitman arm if its been on for 40-50 years. (Usually a puller you would rent or buy from a parts/tool store). With a 2.5" lift we found that just adding an adjustable trac bar side stepped those two steps, solved two issues and is a whole lot less labor intensive. This also makes the lift 100% bolt on right in your garage or driveway.

I really like the 2.5" lift for your Bronco. It sounds like a good fit for it and you. You will also enjoy the added benefits of not needing longer drive shafts, not battling caster/road handling issues, retaining the stock brake lines and e brake cables. With that being said you may want to inspect the rubber brake lines that run from your axle to your frame and see what condition they are in. this would be a good time to replace those if they look weather checked and cracking.

I currently have due shocks in the back but I am planning to only run the rear shocks. The James duff shocks are a bit long. My static measurement is 18.5" back shocks on the rear and 17.5 on the front shocks on the rear.

yes I see your shocks static length is an inch or two less than the our shortest eye to eye shock. Unless you forecast hitting really big bumps really hard you wont have an issue taking away a little up travel. Even aggressive drivers wont see more than 3" of shock movement on the rear shock mounts and that has a lot to do with how they are positioned. until they get out on trails above a level 3. I would feel comfortable running our shocks with only 3.5" of up travel.

Feel free to message me here or email me with any of your questions. monstermike@jamesduff.com

good luck which ever way you go!

Michael

 

[NGABronco]

Hey kcc, I can help you with any and all questions and concerns you have about James Duff Products.

Our basic 2.5" suspension shown in the link below is $999.95 the largest cost is your new coil and leaf springs. You do pay a little more for them but its for a great cause. Our springs use all american steel and are built right here in the good ole US of A. We try to make or buy everything here state side because we believe in this country and the people in it that make it so great. Plus I may be old fashioned but I really like putting as many usa made parts on an American Classic like the Ford Bronco.

http://www.dufftuff.com/2_5_2_1_2_suspension_lift_kit_early_ford_bronco_p/5000a--.htm

A few other components about this lift I'd like to point out is you'll notice we don't supply a drop trac bar bracket. Instead we supply an adjustable trac bar. You'll notice that some lifts come with certain components and then you need to add/buy additional ones to make small corrections. This lift is all inclusive with no added or extra costs. Typically when you buy a drop trac bar bracket you will also need a drop pitman arm to correct your steering geometry(which in some lifts is an added cost). Drop trac bar brackets need to be welded on then painted and you will need some help removing your original pitman arm if its been on for 40-50 years. (Usually a puller you would rent or buy from a parts/tool store). With a 2.5" lift we found that just adding an adjustable trac bar side stepped those two steps, solved two issues and is a whole lot less labor intensive. This also makes the lift 100% bolt on right in your garage or driveway.

I really like the 2.5" lift for your Bronco. It sounds like a good fit for it and you. You will also enjoy the added benefits of not needing longer drive shafts, not battling caster/road handling issues, retaining the stock brake lines and e brake cables. With that being said you may want to inspect the rubber brake lines that run from your axle to your frame and see what condition they are in. this would be a good time to replace those if they look weather checked and cracking.

Feel free to message me here or email me with any of your questions. monstermike@jamesduff.com

good luck which ever way you go!

Michael

I'm sold!!! Send me one Mike!!!!!;D;D;D No wait...I'll pick it up at SC!!!!

 

[Skiddy]

I'm sold!!! Send me one Mike!!!!!;D;D;D No wait...I'll pick it up at SC!!!!

heck pick me up some rear springs while your at it

 

[Rustytruck]

2.5" lift, no body lift, 33" X 12.50" X 15" on an 8 inch wide rim.
4 degree c bushings and drop trac bar bracket in the frame on a 1974 Bronco with power steering.
No steering drop arm. Stock steering components.
Wild Horses Gorilla Warflairs.

 

[tommyg]

I went with 2 1/2" suspension, 1" body with 33's. Very happy with the results. I was able to keep all of the other suspension components stock (other than new shocks and springs), but I did have an incident where my rear driveshaft dropped out a few months after installing the lift. Even though the stock should have been fine, pretty sure there was a correlation (and a bit scary when your 7 year old daughter is riding in the back seat at the time). I guess my way of saying just check everything out, these are old trucks....

 

[bronconut73]

I went with 2 1/2" suspension, 1" body with 33's. Very happy with the results. I was able to keep all of the other suspension components stock (other than new shocks and springs), but I did have an incident where my rear driveshaft dropped out a few months after installing the lift. Even though the stock should have been fine, pretty sure there was a correlation (and a bit scary when your 7 year old daughter is riding in the back seat at the time). I guess my way of saying just check everything out, these are old trucks....

That's a handsome eb ya got there Tommy!

 

[WASP1971]

Tommy are those 8" wheels you have there? I also have a 2.5" suspension lift and 1" body lift. And as a tie to this thread I highly recommend this combination. I am running 10's but think I may like the 8's better

 

[kcc0521]

I think the 2.5" SL and 1" body lift looks great. I am going to just throw springs and C bushings in for now. I might add an adjustable track bar later. I didn't know you need to add a dropped pitman arm when you added the drop bracket for track bar. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[bronconut73]

Tommy are those 8" wheels you have there? I also have a 2.5" suspension lift and 1" body lift. And as a tie to this thread I highly recommend this combination. I am running 10's but think I may like the 8's better

I think your 10's look great. I wouldn't change them.