Got my 2000 5.0 pretty much rebuilt. I did a new waterpump and oil pump. There was no codes prior to the rebuild but Im curious if I should be replacing sensors. Like the crank position sensor and cam Oil level sender. I guess it all worked but before I just replace it all I figured I'd ask Also the piece that goes to the oil pump shaft is some kind of distributor type that. I see it's like $90 or $15 to just replace the type. Any ideas on it? Goes up top just in front of the plenum on drivers side. Cam drives it which also drives the oil pump. So I'm guessing it is the cam position sensor? But the one bolt and triangle piece that retains it seems like it maybe something to do with timing. Any info on how to install it and should I replace it?
What cheap options are there for valve covers. I'd end up painting them just curious what everyones running
Typically I would tell you to replace all the sensors and start fresh, since it is a fresh motor. But recent experience with new has me asking how many miles are on you sensors now? If it is a low number and you had no codes then the possibility exists that you could reuse them.
Valve covers - I reused the stamped steel Explorer factory ones. 87-93 aluminum ones will fit, but only if you are not using the 90* elbow with the TB. You need to have a closed PCV system like the EFI motors have. There needs to be a return port from one of the valve covers to the air inlet tube / or TB.
Cam position sensor, also called a Synchronizer. Do not buy the $40 Chinese made one (Rich Porter from O'Riellys and Dorman) Having recently taken out my motor with 154 miles on it (another story) we found that the tolerances on the oil pump drive were pretty sloppy. My new CPS had the shaft jammed in it. I ordered a Dorman from Napa, which was Chinese and it had the same poor tolerance. So I moved up to the USA made Echlin from Napa, ($170) Great tolerance on the pump drive, just like the 176K mile Motorcraft one that came out of the motor. Guess what, it made noise. Defective new. So I put the 176K mile one back in the motor to get it fired up. I greased up and bought a new Motorcraft unit from Ford.
So yes you need a tool to install the CPS, a replacement CPS usually comes with one. You need to take a look at the Explorer EFI thread from EFI Guy. It has a lot of information. You place the motor top dead center, you remove the sensor from the top of the CPS, install the tool in its place, and drop it into the hole in the block. There is an arrow on the tool that needs to face forward when you have it into proper position. I have simplified this, I found pictures and videos when I Googled Explorer CPS / Synchronizer.
Finally, these things do not get a good oil supply to the bushing on the shaft. They tend to fail at around 70K according to the Explorer forums. (they start making noise) They supposedly have redesigned them, added an oil port to prevent that. Take a look at your old one, rotate the shaft and see if there is any binding or slop. Before starting your motor pre-prime it by turning the oil pump drive shaft counter clock wise with a drill. Then lube up the CPS cam gear with assembly lube and run some oil down the shaft to the bushing and rotate the shaft prior to installing it.
If you do not install the CPS correctly, the engine will still run, but fuel timing will be off which could lead to a lean running engine and detonation.
I know, more that you wanted to know...
