23 gallon rear fuel tank options

[DaveLev]

I have a 2 barrel stock carb right now. No plans to do EFI for 12+ months.

I want to increase the stock tank to a 23 gallon aftermarket.

I do currently have a body lift nor do I have plans to ever install one.

I am evaluating my options that I found online. I'd like your feedback.

First of all, can I use an EFI tank w/ sender & and internal pump on my carb if I simply bypass the mechanical stock fuel pump on side of engine with my 2 barrel carb? Can this be done without an external fuel regulator (to lower pressure I guess), or can it be run directly?

Second, I need some help deciding. I understand there are basically two solutions out there:

System A = uses a single strap and the j-bolts

System B = has individual mounting bolts, A/N style fittings, and is adjustable up and down to support a body lift.

As I don't intend on body lift, and this is more a street machine and won't do 4x4 activities while wife is driving it with 4 drum brakes anyway, I think the strap style should be fine for my application.

Wild Horses sells this 'System A' style for $499, is 16 gauge, and includes sending unit and mounting hardware:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Rear_Fuel_Tank_23gallon

Wild Horses also says a 'System B' style for $629 that they call the Sherman Tank:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Sherman_Fuel_Tank_EFI_Kit_23_Gallon

Tom's Bronco Parts sells this 'System A' style for $399, is 16 gauge, and includes sending unit and mounting hardware:
https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/pro...on-wstraps-sending-unit-66-77-ford-bronco-new

BroncoHut sells this 'System A' style for $399, which includes sending unit and all attaching hardware, but doesn't say what gauge it is:
http://broncohut.com/collections/fuel-systems/products/23-gallon-rear-fuel-tank

BroncoGraveyard sells two different options. This one is the new design, 'System B' style, and cost $498, and is made for carbs:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/196...-Rear-Fuel-Tank-New-Design/productinfo/10203/

This one is the new design, 'System B' style, and cost $499, and says it is for EFI engines, but the descriptions below the image are identical:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/196...ear-23-Gal-W_-Sending-Unit/productinfo/10204/

I don't want this to turn into a vendor-bashing thread. I don't know any of these vendors from Adam, and just want the best solution for wife's bronco based on our current & future needs. Frankly, there appears to be just 3 different tanks out there: The Sherman tank (not sure who actually manufactures this), the system A type (all vendors appear to be selling the same tank, and I don't know who manufactures them) and the system B type (similar to the Sherman, but appears to be a slightly older adjustable design). All vendors appear to be simply reselling and/or drop shipping them from the manufacturer/OEM. I cannot explain a price variance of $100 between vendors, however, for the same product.

Please advise. We are in no rush, and look to purchase in late August.

 

[sykanr0ng]

You missed the Aerotank which uses tabs with rubber bushings that mount directly to the frame.

The mounting rail system makes the tank narrower and that makes it taller so it sticks down farther.
Not much of a concern if you are not driving off road.

www.aerotanks.com

 

[rekoj71]

I have one of the early style B which I only paid 399 for but that was some time ago and it didn't have the AN fittings, but any of those tanks should work for you. Yes you can run an in tank pump "With a Regulator" and bypass the engine mounted pump that you can put a blank-off plate on (also sold by most speed shops) and still run the carb setup. or as several people have done still use a carb style tank and adapt with inline pumps and "T's" to have return lines for using EFI with an old tank. It all works but some works better than others. My tank just has a hose connected and laying in the bottom of the tank where the in-tank pump could go and I still use the engine pump for my carb setup.

The nice thing about the "B" style is that those rails allow you to raise or lower the tank for future mods but I'm with you in that I don't have or want a body lift.

If it was me in your situation, I think all of those tanks are good tanks but it sounds like you could get by with the cheapest one in your list and still be happy.

 

[suckerpunched]

I'm running the aero EFI tank. I think it is a god product. I also have a 2" body lift and the tank is mounted almost against the floor. It still hangs down quite a bit. not bad but I personally wouldn't want it any lower. Sherman tank supposedly hangs down more. My cousin had aero build him a tank that was not quite as deep as their standard tank for a non ford truck he was working on. He felt the ground clearance gain was worth the fuel capacity loss. heres a picture of mine to give you an idea of what it looks like.

 

[DaveLev]

Thank you. The picture helps. Nice looking bronco you've started on. It does hang down a bit I guess.

I found the tank you mentioned at:
http://www.aerotanks.com/inventory/br23.html

And I looked at their prices at:
http://www.aerotanks.com/main/PriceGuide.html#br23
and it shows it is $395 for tank, but has a column for labor of $183. I don't understand this. Is the labor column if you drive your rig into them in San Bernadino, California?

It also reads that, "Prices current as of 2012". Ummm...that was 4 years ago.

 

[Teal68]

Here's another option that does not require a regulator if you want to put a low pressure pump in the tank of your choice:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...4ieawmjP7N2o8O1VfQ2g0Ons3XdIX7lJ3RRoCTpfw_wcB


It's what has been running in my Wife's Bronco a couple years now.

 

[904Bronco]

I would call Aero and speak with Jake, he has done a number of mass buys for Norcal Bronco members and one recently for Classic members.

It is not a pretty tank, but well built IMO.

You cannot run a standard EFI tank pump to your Carb. You would also need a return line, a regulator, and a way to control it without the ECU from EFI. You could run an external electric pump rated (Lower volume and pressure) for a Carb with a tank set up for a Carb. EFI tanks have the pick up tube higher in the tank, as the Fuel pump and sock are below it.

The $183 listed appears to be for install. (I bet it is more now)

I have personally owned 3 of these tanks and assisted with installation on a few more...

 

[blubuckaroo]

You really should look at examples of both types of tanks mounted on cars without body lifts.
With both mounted properly against the rear floor, the adjustable tank hangs down quite a bit lower. That's because those have to be made narrower so the unistrut track will fit. They make them taller so they will have the same capacity as their compeditor'so tanks.
This may not be a problem with a big body lift, but is quite noticeable without a body lift or even a 1" body lift.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like the strap type is not a disadvantage for you Dave, as you're not intending any hard off-roading. That one still hangs down more than stock, but is the most compact of the big tanks. Other than a custom that is.
Though might have more ground clearance, it is prone to becoming dislodged from dragging on rocks and stumps and such.
Has a skid plate option if needed, but still has the strap as the weak link.

The Aero has the next deepest profile for the same capacity.
Skid plate is optional, but is welded to the bottom of the tank.

The Sherman and BC (and theoretically the Graveyard's new one from the look of it) hang down the farthest, but have an optional skid plate too, if you're going to take it off-roading.
The adjustability is nice even if you're not going to change body mounts now, as those feelings can change over time.
The main advantage I can see for you, is that you can purchase the less expensive version at this point and use with your carburetor, then just get the EFI fuel pump kit when you do change over to EFI and simply install it in the same tank.

They're all decent, and I've used the strap type and have an Aero (yet to install) and have helped with other installs.
They all have ups and downsides, but at least you have options.

Paul

 

[blubuckaroo]

My Aero tankso are over 35 years old now and have never had an issue.
They are made a bit different than the new ones. Theven side is relieved where the filler, vent, and fuel connections come out by the frame.
What they lack in sty, they make up in ruggedness.
Mine don't have skid plates, and i've lifted the car with a floor jack under the tank a number of times without damage.%)

 

[Sherlock]

Is there any maufacturer that has corrected the fuel level reading on the sending units? I remember reading some time ago that this was an issue.

 

[Teal68]

Is there any maufacturer that has corrected the fuel level reading on the sending units? I remember reading some time ago that this was an issue.

My BC tank that came with a sender works great.

 

[bronconut73]

Sounds like the strap type is not a disadvantage for you Dave, as you're not intending any hard off-roading. That one still hangs down more than stock, but is the most compact of the big tanks. Other than a custom that is.
Though might have more ground clearance, it is prone to becoming dislodged from dragging on rocks and stumps and such.
Has a skid plate option if needed, but still has the strap as the weak link.

The Aero has the next deepest profile for the same capacity.
Skid plate is optional, but is welded to the bottom of the tank.

The Sherman and BC (and theoretically the Graveyard's new one from the look of it) hang down the farthest, but have an optional skid plate too, if you're going to take it off-roading.
The adjustability is nice even if you're not going to change body mounts now, as those feelings can change over time.
The main advantage I can see for you, is that you can purchase the less expensive version at this point and use with your carburetor, then just get the EFI fuel pump kit when you do change over to EFI and simply install it in the same tank.

They're all decent, and I've used the strap type and have an Aero (yet to install) and have helped with other installs.
They all have ups and downsides, but at least you have options.

Paul

Paul,

Many years ago didn't WH have a slightly smaller tank that could be used with a body lift to tuck it up higher?
Like 19 Or 21 gallon.
Shaped slightly different than the typical 23 gallon tank,

Might be nearly 20 years ago....

 

[Joe473]

Check out the mass buy from this winter on the aero. As 904 said it's a sturdy tank but not pretty. I really don't think any of the 23 gallon tanks are pretty though. The Aero is sturdy and it looks like the sender will work as good as factory if you take the time to set it at the right height and length. I believe that is the same with all tanks. Check out tanks inc that have a sender that has no float arm. Also a few other custom vendors out there making show quality tanks but very expensive.

Some other notes to consider.

You can buy the efi tank and install a pickup using submersible hose. So bypass the intake pump and leave the mechanical for carb for now.

Check number and size of fittings. Get 3/8" feed and a 5/16 return min.

Make sure you also get a vent installed in addition to the 5/8" vent and 5/16 return if you plan to keep factory vapor charcoal cannister.

Vent should have rollover valve available. Return typically doesn't require this since it would sit at bottom of tank

Make sure both sender and pickup are recessed if on top of tank to allow clearance to bottom of bed. Had to shim mine down with 1/4" rubber due to hitting bottom of bed.

Aero will make a smaller tank for you. I think mine is abut 2 inches less than the 23 and should come out over 18 gallons.

Haven't filled mine yet to check but some of the other guys may have more comments.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[DaveLev]

Thanks for the feedback and photos guys.
I think for this build, I'll go with the 'system A' style that use a strap, get new fuel hoses, mounting hardware, and sender. If it hangs down no big deal. Skidplate seems a bit much for a street machine - I think a 23 gallon should clear a speed bump or two here and there. I see the logic in investing an extra $100 now to get an adjustable up and down type of tank and bypassing the EFI pump, however I fear that will add up quickly with other stuff like return lines, block off plate, more wires to run, etc. Not trying to be cheap, just trying to add fuel capacity and get a more accurate fuel sender. The factory one says I'm empty a bit prematurely - probably by 3 gallons or so. Cheap insurance that I get all the way to the next gas station, though.

 

[DirtDonk]

Paul,

Many years ago didn't WH have a slightly smaller tank that could be used with a body lift to tuck it up higher?
Like 19 Or 21 gallon.
Shaped slightly different than the typical 23 gallon tank,

Might be nearly 20 years ago....

Good memory. Actually it was an optional "body lift" version of the standard NWMP tank and we stocked both.
Then we had them build their standard 23 gallon to our specifications which allowed it to be used with up to at least a 2" body lift without loss of capacity. Probably still loses a slight amount, but since it's still officially rated at 23, that's how we sell it.

The one we currently sell as the NWMP tank (No longer Northwest Metal Products but now actually Sunset Fab) is supposed to be that tank. However we did have a run of them three or four years ago that would not fit with body lifts. Should have that sorted out I would think, but easy enough to measure and compare before purchase.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

All sending units should leave some gas in reserve. Every OE fuel gauge that I can think of reads that way. Every car and truck I've ever owned worked this way too, and that's how I set up my Bronco's original sending units. My Buick has about 3 gallons left when I'm way past zero and the light has come on and all the warnings in the world are telling me to fill up. Same way all the way back to the sixties in my experience. A big fat Lexus I just filled up today had almost five left right after the warning light came on. I guess Lexus owners are a cavalier bunch and just keep driving along in blissful ignorance for awhile after the gauge reads empty. So the manufacturer compensates.

I can almost guarantee you that if it ran out of gas just as the gauge was reading zero, there would be lawsuits galore for not leaving some leeway/insurance against forgetful drivers or long trips where gas stations are not common.
The current thinking does give people more time to worry, but less time stuck on the side of the road.

The originals in my EB never went above 3/4 tank, and would go well below empty before I'd run out. So I simply tweaked them like you would do to any new aftermarket sending unit. A little bend here, a tweak there, and they were set up perfectly to my tastes. You can do the same.
I'll happily sell you or anyone a new tank of course, but don't buy one just because your gauge reads off. As many have experienced here, way too many things could be at fault. And a new tank is in no way a guarantee of a correctly reading gauge!

So in that line of thought, some universal truths about steel replacement tanks then.

1. ALWAYS CLEAN THE TANK PRIOR TO INSTALLING!
2. Not all sending units are created equal.
3. As was already mentioned, take the time to set up the sending unit.
Even if it was set up by the seller before shipping, "Re-Set" so that it works properly with YOUR gauge in YOUR truck under YOUR conditions. Which, here again, are not always equal. As we like to say around here, "your results may vary" and "every Bronco is different" and it's true.
4. Clean the tank. (that just deserved double mention);D

I'm not really sure it's 100% due to setup, or partly due to the brand of sending unit, or how much the condition of the electrical system play a part, but while "most" of the tanks we've sold over the years (and all that I've used personally over the years)
work perfectly well with the gauges, it's not a 100% record yet. Plenty of people right here have talked about their dilemmas. One member (sorry, forgot the name) did a great writeup on how he got his to read correctly. But it also involved some judicious bending and tweaking.

Good luck.

Paul