3-link mocked up, will my lowers rub?

[mavereq]

as the title reads, i have my 3-link front mocked up.... well, partially mocked. i still have to fab my panhard mount. this is a full width d44 so it's 3" wider on each side. i like where my lower links are but i'm not sure if they're gonna rub or not. anyone able to tell from the pics?

 

[rtreads]

Isn't that too much thread showing in the second pic? That would make me REALLY nervous.

...cant comment on the rub issues as I have duff arms

 

[mavereq]

those are just pvc mockup arms

 

[mavereq]

well, hopefully these don't rub. i mounted the trackbar and i don't have any binding.

 

[DanWheeler]

looks awesome! What is the thread size on the ballistic joints? What size PVC and sleeves?

I'm very jealous... can't wait to see it in action. if I had to guess, i'd say you wont have any rubbing problems or at least not too severe to be a problem.

- Is that the polyperformance trackbar bracket?
- What size DOM did you go with for your trackbar?
- What heims did you use?

Did you happen to check the upper link mount position to make sure it isn't in the way of where the header collector will be? I will be putting my upper link on the outside of the frame for this reason.

nice work!

EDIT: Sorry - nevermind - I dont know what I'm talking about with the header collector being in the way. I was thinking of my crossover exhaust that would be in the way of a upper link mount inside the frame at the same position opposite of the body mount:

you should be fine as long as you dont want to do crossover exhaust

 

[mavereq]

the ballistic joints are 1.25"

i picked up the 1" pvc and the female fittings for 1" pvc are the same size.

yes, it's the polyperformance trackbar bracket. i used the one poly links to for the lower and the joint at the frame is a 3/4" from ruffstuffspecialties.

i'm not going to run crossover exhaust for the reason you listed. i have just miss the starter/bellhousing with the upper arm at full stuff.

 

[Apogee]

Rubbing will depend on how wide a tire you choose to run and the backspacing of the wheels you choose. Care to share?

Also, are you planning on welding your tubes at the diff or just relying on the plug welds? Three-links can be hard on them since all of the torque from the driver's side has to travel through the diff housing to get to the upper link.

 

[ken75ranger]

Also, are you planning on welding your tubes at the diff or just relying on the plug welds? Three-links can be hard on them since all of the torque from the driver's side has to travel through the diff housing to get to the upper link.

I would highly suggest welding the tubes in this case. It doesn't look like a lot of separation between the upper and lower links on the tube. Plus the lower links are pretty close to the axle centerline. That adds up to more rotational stress on the axle tube that wasn't welded very well from the factory.

 

[mavereq]

i'm putting a truss on. i have 7.5" of vertical separation at the axle and 3" at the frame.

 

[Gordon Fab]

I bent my tubes where they got outside of the frame but also had my tires to check clearance. you might want to slap that hub on there and mount the tires before you burn money on tubes that are no good.

 

[DirtDonk]

Exactly. You won't know for sure until you mount the rest of the stuff up, so a tire and wheel combo should be part of your mockup strategy. Very hard for us to tell from here unless we've done it and have measurements.

Ok, so what size tires are you going to run? What wheel size and backspacing/offset measurements?

Paul

 

[bax]

from looking at picture 1, I would say they will rub. Put on the hub and mock up a tire.

 

[Nightstick]

I have zero knowledge of 3 or 4 link systems, but I figure this is a good place to ask a couple questions about them..

1. How much articulation would you be able to gain by going to a system like that? Would you still not be limited by the shocks and springs unless you went to a coil over ($$$) system?

3. Would it better to use a link type radius arm instead of the standard arm with C Bushings? Just weld the mounting brackets in the same manner you would for a 3 link front but only use two similar to radius arms

 

[OX1]

I haven't played with the 3-link calc, only the 4 link, but is there some reason you need the lowers so far outboard @ the axle?

 

[mavereq]

I have zero knowledge of 3 or 4 link systems, but I figure this is a good place to ask a couple questions about them..

1. How much articulation would you be able to gain by going to a system like that? Would you still not be limited by the shocks and springs unless you went to a coil over ($$$) system?

3. Would it better to use a link type radius arm instead of the standard arm with C Bushings? Just weld the mounting brackets in the same manner you would for a 3 link front but only use two similar to radius arms

there is a lot of binding in a radius arm suspension. when your moves it changes your pinion angle. when one side moves up and the other moves down, they're both trying to change your pinion angle in opposite directions. the large c bushings take the brunt of the binding in a stock setup. with only one upper i don't run into that problem. trust me, danwheeler had me racking my brain on that.

you can get 15" travel shocks and i don't see needing much more articulation on the front.

if you go with a link radius arm suspension and only use a lower link on one of the sides then you won't get the binding. the only downside to that suspesion type is that it puts your instant center at the frame joint of the radius arm and causes a lot of antisquat (antidive on the frontend). the problem with lots of antidive is that the frontend tends to unload (hop up) when you're climbing hills. i've read that a lot of the serious offroaders use small winches to suck the front suspension down when climbing hills to offset this.

more than anything i'm just playing around with this. i'll try and get the hubs on this weekend and check for rubbing. i'm planning on running a 35 x 12.50 on a 9" wheel with 4.5" backspacing. i'm going to possibly run 37's depending on how high it sits once i get the suspension fabbed up.

one of the reasons i'm running the lower links as far out as possible is that i'm hoping it stabilizes things a bit. using the link calculator shows the running some triangulation on my lowers knocks down the amount of oversteer i end up with.

 

[fdezone]

Looks good Daryl. Subscribed! I'm still working on parts for my 1-ton swap. ;D

 

[OX1]

one of the reasons i'm running the lower links as far out as possible is that i'm hoping it stabilizes things a bit. using the link calculator shows the running some triangulation on my lowers knocks down the amount of oversteer i end up with.

Is the 3 link designed for a rear app like the 4 link and does over/under steer on a front linked system even matter (since you can just steer it away, so to speak) ??

 

[mavereq]

Looks good Daryl. Subscribed! I'm still working on parts for my 1-ton swap. ;D

thanks axel. how have you been? what axles are you planning to put under the green machine?

 

[mavereq]

Is the 3 link designed for a rear app like the 4 link and does over/under steer on a front linked system even matter (since you can just steer it away, so to speak) ??

i think it matters. this is my front suspension. i'm doing a triangulated 4-link for the back. my plan is to have a few degrees oversteer in the front and a few degrees understeer in the rear.

 

[BoltBuster]

Looks good Mavereq, How are you going to do your radius arms? How do you figure the right bends for turning the tire? or are you having someone else make them?