3 speed column shift adjustment?

[igottastanger]

Whats the best way to adjust the shift linkages on a 3 spped column shift bronco. Im having shifting problems after adding powersteering with new steering linkages/ujoints. i can shift the transmission if i pop the hood and put it in gear that way but with the column itself it feels as if its just not going far enough in gear. Any ideas would help ive never messed with a column shift and if it keeps giving me problems i may just switch to the floor shifter.

 

[astronot]

I can't think of any adjustment in that mechanism. Best thing to do is get someone to work the shifter as you look under the hood and under the truck for a bind somewhere in the linkage. A common problem with the column shifter is the bushings in the column itself. The shifter gets loose and sloppy due to play inside the column itself.

I converted from column to floor shifter last year. If you're not trying to retain the original look, you will wonder why you didn't convert earlier.

 

[igottastanger]

yeah i replaced the bushing already thought that was the case, but only helped a little still doesnt go into gear unless i pop the hood and push it further in to gear.

 

[DirtDonk]

There is actually an adjustment procedure. I'll see if I can find it in the book, but until then, basically you do the following:

1. Disconnect the shift rods at the shift levers on the side of the transmission.
2. Make sure that both levers are clicked fully into their Neutral positions.
3. Back up at the shift arms on the column, line them up and put a drill bit of the appropriate size through the small aligning hole just below where the shift rods connect.
4. This is the time to feel around to make sure there is no excessive slop in any component. Whether a rod, a bushing, the column itself (the shift tube can wear out and actually break) or the transmission itself by how the levers feel.
5. Now go back down and try to line the shift rod adjustable tips up to the holes in the levers. If they pop right in, you're set. If not, then twist the adjusters until the tips line up in the holes.

I seem to remember preferring to put them at a certain tension one way or the other, but it's literally been 30 years since I had to adjust one, so it's hard to say which way I biased it from memory.
Just put them in where they feel good and see what you get. From there you can easily add or remove some adjustment.

Oh, and don't forget to "pull the pin" (drill bit) before you try shifting!

Paul

 

[igottastanger]

Thank you thats what i was looking for!

 

[DirtDonk]

No prob. Oh, and it should be obvious, but when putting the drill bit through the two holes, you align them by using the little "tube thingy" that's welded to the top of the column.
Here's a pic (with some historical background color for reference )


You'd have figured it out, but I thought I'd point it out anyway, so there was no question what that strange looking appendage was doing there.

Paul

 

[travbo24]

I'm needing to make the same adjustments on my column after rebuilding it...but while rebuilding it I realized that my steering column does not have the tubular weldment on the housing for alignment of the two shift arms. Anyone else have one like this? How else am I supposed to set the shift arms to neutral position?

 

[thegreatjustino]

Shift arms will be in the halfway point of their full range of travel within the column for them to be in the neutral position.

 

[Smedley]

I aligned my shift levers with a drill bit. However, I have a 1" BL and I am getting my ass kicked trying to get my shift to find the gears. Any tips?

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes. With a body lift of any size you sometimes need to physically custom-lengthen things like the long rods. Same for the clutch rod, but longer ones are made for that so you don't have to make your own unless you want to.

Fortunately sometimes you can get away with the existing parts because they have enough adjustment built right in. Unfortunately, sometimes it's not enough and you have to customize them.
So if the threads on your rods won't let the adjusters reach out far enough I don't see any other answer but to lengthen the rods.

In your case, when the adjusters are all the way out at the end of the rods, how much farther do they need to go? Did you make sure that your shift arms on the trans were correctly in neutral when you adjusted?
Got a pic of how far off they are?

How did the other "usual suspects" work out so far? Things like radiator shrouds and clutch rods? Usually you don't have to modify the floor for the t-case shifter with only 1" of lift, but the clutch rod is usually not long enough and, most of the time, the shroud has to be dropped.

Lengthening the rods is relatively straightforward and is done most typically by cutting and welding extensions in the middle. But when you don't have a welder handy you could figure out how much you need, cut the rods in a straight section, then create threads on each section with a die. With them threaded insert them into one of those fully threaded female hex rod (I don't know what they're actually called. "Threaded sleeve" maybe?) and that becomes the extension.
Sometimes you can find them in pre-made lengths, other times you might find one that's too long and cut it down to the desired size.

I did that to a clutch rod and it worked sweet. But have not had to do it to a manual 3speed shifting rods.

Paul

 

[Scoop]

Duff's floor shifter. Problem solved. ;D

 

[Smedley]

Paul,

Great info. I do not think I have them all the way out yet. I shift into 2nd and 3rd, but not 1st and R.

Clutch is good. For the Fan shroud, I made a 1" drop bracket for each corner. That worked fine.

I'll get back at it today and get some pics.

Floor shifter is not an option, i like the 3 on the tree.

Thanks,
Will

Yes. With a body lift of any size you sometimes need to physically custom-lengthen things like the long rods. Same for the clutch rod, but longer ones are made for that so you don't have to make your own unless you want to.

Fortunately sometimes you can get away with the existing parts because they have enough adjustment built right in. Unfortunately, sometimes it's not enough and you have to customize them.
So if the threads on your rods won't let the adjusters reach out far enough I don't see any other answer but to lengthen the rods.

In your case, when the adjusters are all the way out at the end of the rods, how much farther do they need to go? Did you make sure that your shift arms on the trans were correctly in neutral when you adjusted?
Got a pic of how far off they are?

How did the other "usual suspects" work out so far? Things like radiator shrouds and clutch rods? Usually you don't have to modify the floor for the t-case shifter with only 1" of lift, but the clutch rod is usually not long enough and, most of the time, the shroud has to be dropped.

Lengthening the rods is relatively straightforward and is done most typically by cutting and welding extensions in the middle. But when you don't have a welder handy you could figure out how much you need, cut the rods in a straight section, then create threads on each section with a die. With them threaded insert them into one of those fully threaded female hex rod (I don't know what they're actually called. "Threaded sleeve" maybe?) and that becomes the extension.
Sometimes you can find them in pre-made lengths, other times you might find one that's too long and cut it down to the desired size.

I did that to a clutch rod and it worked sweet. But have not had to do it to a manual 3speed shifting rods.

Paul

 

[Smedley]

I put it in neutral, disconnected shift arm at the transmission then slid a drill bit in the slot and the holes in the shift levers. (See pic). I then adjusted the ends of the shift arms to the proper length to reattach at shift arm. (pic) Still only have 2nd and 3rd. 1st and R just don't want to go.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well it should work then (of course!) and it sounds like it worked before the body lift, correct?

Can you get both shifters to run through their paces independently by hand with the rods disconnected?
Just to confirm nothing has changed within the transmission to mess this up.

Paul

 

[Smedley]

Yes. Both arms will shift properly st the transmission.

Well it should work then (of course!) and it sounds like it worked before the body lift, correct?

Can you get both shifters to run through their paces independently by hand with the rods disconnected?
Just to confirm nothing has changed within the transmission to mess this up.

Paul

 

[snowymtnwolf]

Worked for me when I lined up the small drill bit in the top holes with the bottom in neutral. Thx much.

 

[oldiron]

I put it in neutral, disconnected shift arm at the transmission then slid a drill bit in the slot and the holes in the shift levers. (See pic). I then adjusted the ends of the shift arms to the proper length to reattach at shift arm. (pic) Still only have 2nd and 3rd. 1st and R just don't want to go.

Try this... have someone look under the hood while you try low/reverse, is the shift arm moving? If not, suspect that the tab has broken off the shift tube.
Greg