Where exactly are you measuring this voltage (position of each meter probe), and under exactly what conditions (key, engine, headlights, blower switch, blower speed...)?
Measuring at the battery and the dash wiring (newer Centech harness).
Battery has 12.7v unhooked
Headlights off, heater off - 14.55v (after i rev to 1800 RPM to kick on the alternator) at idle 550rpm
Headlights on low/hi, heater off - 14.45v at the battery at 550rpm idle (hi/low beams make no diff)
Headlights on low/hi, heater on low iam getting 14.35v at idle
Headlights on low/hi, heater on high - 12.75 to 14v at idle - lights dim and brighten, engine rpms are unsteady at idle until I go above 1000rpm then iam a steady 13.25v
Why are you assuming? Didn't you look at it when you installed it? Nearly all switches have their ratings stamped on their cases. How did you acquire the switch?
Nope, just looked for a three way switch, at the time i was in the mountains and it was very very cold and my stock heater switch literally disintegrated behind the dash. I needed a heater and it was the only 3 way switch i could find at the time that would fit the little round hole (didn’t have any way to drill it out.)
Bought the switch from some backwater store, was the only thing they had at the time - forgot to mess with it over the summer.
Yes. A polarity-reversing switch doesn't work the way a common SPDT or SP3T switch does. At best, you could get on & off from it.
Thats all iam looking for - on/off/on to operate the blower
Most 3-way switches have 4 terminals (unless, by "3-way" you mean 3 terminals); most polarity reversing switches have at least 4 terminals; sometimes 6. You need to be a lot more specific about what you have, what's happening, and what you WANT to happen.
as above, turn on the blower both low and high - on/off/on
I do have another alternator on order. I know that the current alternator cannot keep up with the demand at idle nor at the rpms I run. Iam about to add more load to the system so want something that can handle now and the future. Reviewing the current alternator paper work it says its rated at 90 amps at 4500 RPM - the lowest RPM test they did was 1800 RPM’s and it says it should put out 45 amps.. Iam not sure the RPMs listed are for the alternator or the engine - assume alternator and there must be some math problem to figure out where the engine RPMs are but iam pretty sure this alt cannot keep up with the load anyway.
FYI - i redline on or about 4200 RPM and rarely see anything over 3000RPM 95% of the time, i thought about putting a smaller pulley on but in the end the cost/time advantage wasn’t worth a new bigger alt.
I just want to make sure the switch is rated for the heater amperage really…
