302 block/oil sender stand-off

[Mono]

I bought a Bronco with an EZ-out stuck in the oil sender stand-off hole of the engine block. Last night I took off the power steering pump to access the EZ-out. SNAP :-X! I busted it off! Can I drill this out? Or will metal shavings go where I don't want them to go? Anyone know what's behind the sender hole in the block?

 

[Carl]

Hmmm... thats a tough one. First of all, the ez-out it is probably made of some kind of hardened steel or carbide. So it might be hard to drill out. And if you can drill it out, you are right that metal shavings might go somewhere in the block where you don't want them. I'm not sure where that port goes in the block. Is oil leaking from the hole?

 

[ugly74]

That is a tough one. easy outs are pretty hard, and a PIA to drill. I know the spot yer workin on is kinda hard to get at but...
I've had some success using a small chisel and hammer to turn out busted bolts and even taps, so ya might try that.

 

[00gyrhed]

Oh crap, this could take you a while.

It will be too hard to drill in that location, unless you are very patient and good at sharpening bits.

The hammer and chisel sometimes work but that is a tight spot it depends on how it broke. Sometimes you can break it out.

I have welded a stub on broken pieces with some success, but that is hit or miss. The weld usually breaks or justs twists of then you have a worse mess.

No matter what you do you will have a problem with stuff going into the engine.

 

[ugly74]

if there are metal shavings, a lot of times you can fish 'em out with some sort of steel probe (screwdriver, wire coat hanger), with a magnet stuck to it.

but in this case, I'd fire it up for just a second after it's unplugged. that'll blow out anything that's left. (in theory) then put on the new extension and sending unit.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Whatever you end up doing to remove the tap, if you remove the oil filter, you can blast air into the filter outlet hole and that will push the chips out of the pressure sending unit hole while you work

 

[Mono]

.........Is oil leaking from the hole?

I have not fired it up since I walked away from it(after bustin' it off). It didn't leak when I bought it...... but I would like to see the psi!

Is there any other spot on the block I could use?

 

[NoJoe]

Hi: If you have air you can use a die grinder or if not a dremel type in line grinder, I have taken a lot of broken ez outs out, buy the small carburundem stones, be patient and grind the ez out, will probably take 2 or 3 and what little metal and stones should be easy to clean when your done, the stones i'm talking about approx. 1/4 diameter, Joe.

 

[73stallion]

oh boy, been there done that. i had an EZ out break off in the same place and it cost me a block. if you ask around to some machine shops, they'll probably know of a specialty place that can LASER cut that tap out. it's gonna cost you a few bucks, but it's the proper way to remove it. the shavings WILL get into the oil system if you drill it. you can spend several hours with a few diamond tip bits on a dremel, but you'd better have patience! chances are you'll have to redo the threads also.

BTW, since that day, i won't touch an EZ out...

 

[Mono]

oh boy, been there done that. i had an EZ out break off in the same place and it cost me a block. if you ask around to some machine shops, they'll probably know of a specialty place that can LASER cut that tap out. it's gonna cost you a few bucks, but it's the proper way to remove it. the shavings WILL get into the oil system if you drill it. you can spend several hours with a few diamond tip bits on a dremel, but you'd better have patience! chances are you'll have to redo the threads also.

BTW, since that day, i won't touch an EZ out...

They "laser cut" it in the truck right?

Here are some pics. I just removed the water pump, as it needed to be replaced.

 

[73stallion]

don't know if they can laser cut it in the truck or not. they were going to grind mine out, so they may need to have the block separate.

have you tried using a pair of vise grips and pulling out the broken EZ out? it looks like there's just enough sticking out. then just re-tap it keeping grease on the threads to catch all the shavings. take off the fuel pump also, it'll be a lot easier to get too also. only 2 more bolts.

 

[jabranovich]

Did you ever say if it leaks oil or not?If it doesn't leak,that leaves a lot more options.J B weld?

 

[Mono]

have you tried using a pair of vise grips and pulling out the broken EZ out? it looks like there's just enough sticking out. then just re-tap it keeping grease on the threads to catch all the shavings. take off the fuel pump also, it'll be a lot easier to get too also. only 2 more bolts.

I have not tried a thing. Yeah, If I can get that EZ-out to somehow spin back out.... They must have used red loc-tite on the tread- cuz she didn't budge even with a little heat.

Did you ever say if it leaks oil or not?If it doesn't leak,that leaves a lot more options.J B weld?

It didn't leak when the EZ-out was complete

 

[Pa PITT]

one thing I'll add is I don't like the EZ outs that are straight I alway break them
I'v only got one of them out ...The EZ outs that are twisted seem to be much stronger to me but they will also break ....My thought was also turn it over that will wash out the hole ...one said pull the oil filter off and blow back give it a try
there has got to be at least one other location to get oil pressure ...
Guy is there a place in the timing housing that could be taped....
that way the housing could be taken off cleaned and painted and taped all with your back straight up....

 

[rcmbronc]

Mono,

It looks like there is enough of the original threaded portion of the sender there to weld to. Maybe take a nut that fits over the ez out and tack weld it to the pipe thread portion of the sender fitting. I am pretty sure they are steel. Then unscrew the sender portion and dont worry about the ez out.

 

[Mono]

Mono,

It looks like there is enough of the original threaded portion of the sender there to weld to. Maybe take a nut that fits over the ez out and tack weld it to the pipe thread portion of the sender fitting. I am pretty sure they are steel. Then unscrew the sender portion and dont worry about the ez out.

My welding skills suck! Maybe if you stop by to see my '75 for sale you could........... Mmmmmmm...... help a guy out!

It looks a lot easier when the pic is blown up!

I was also thinking of trying to chissel the threaded pipe to lossen it up........

 

[Rustytruck]

You wont loosen it up with a chisel. The only way to loosen it up is with a cutting torch heat it up almost red hot and let it cool down do this at least 5 times then try to remove it. I would do this before doing anything because if you dont break the bond between the steel and cast iron even if you grind the easyout and remove it your in a worse place because you now have an open hole lined with hardened steel and the tube is still stuck in place. Normally when I have had to deal with this stuff I would torch it then cool it down with pb blaster penetrant. wipe off the mess and torch again several times. wiping off everything as I go. Penetrants are flamable so you have to be prepaired to deal with that too. needless to say your fuel pump and fuel lines must go. If you know someone with an arc welder then he can blow it out with a carbon arc rod.
What ever you do once you get a hole crank the engine and the oil pump will push the crap out the hole or into the filter. and yes it will make a mess. Running a pencil magnet in the hole before you flush would be a good Idea.
when your really stuck and cant do it yourself then look for an EDM shop they will blow it out for you for a price $$$.00 but you will have to deliver the block to them. You would be much better to pull the motor and get the engine on a stand to do this job wher you will have good access, good light, good positioning. than hanging over a bronco fender trying to grind, torch, drill and tap. it only takes a couple of hours to pull the engine. You have the hard part done with the water pump and fan already out of the way. Your only looking at 6 bell housing bolts 2 motor mounts, radiator, fuel pump and filter. carb linkage, alternator wires and the heater hoses and exhaust pipes starter and battery cables. All this is far easier than trying this repair half upside down.

 

[ricky]

Rustytruck has some good ideas there,thats exactly what i would do,if you have a torch,heat it good,spray some type of penetrating oil on there,and heat it again a few times,if you have air,and have a smal dremel/grinder.maybe grind a little off if that stub sticking it,so that you can grip it better with some pliers..if you get it out,then cranking the truck over,and catching the oil is a good idea,BUT be prepared,that oil is going to shoot out of there,at only 40 psi,it will shoot out several feet,so have everything covered and a large bucket handy..good luck with it

 

[willtel]

I would start by removing the fuel pump and perhaps the oil filter to give yourself some room to work. It might sound like a pain but the more trouble you go through to make room the better your chances of getting it out. After you get that stuff out of the way I would try the Vise-Grip thing and if that fails then cut a groove in the top of the Easy Out and try to remove it like a flat head screw. The good thing about the East Out is that they are tapered so if you get it to budge it should come right out. You could use a dremel bit to cut the slot, just make sure you do it right the first time because making a Phillips head out of it won't be easy.

 

[72Sport]

1972 and 73 and probably others have an aluminum nipple for the sending unit. The pieces I took out of mine were and so were a friends with a 73 when his broke off in the block.

I was able to drill mine out in the vehicle. If I ever had to do over again I would pull the engine.