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302 Oil Pan Removal, Oil Pump replacement(?)

jerry

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2002
Messages
697
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
Hey guys,

In the process of dropping my oil pan. All of the bolts are out (as well as the oil pickup tube), but I'm having no luck separating the pan from the block...

The previous owner used a cork gasket... And sealed the heck out of it with RTV. I am trying to (carefully) get a putty knife in there, but have had no success so far.

While I'm in there having a good time... aside from inspecting the pan and pickup screen filter on the pump... Anything else I should be looking, or do, while I'm in there? Engine has an unknown number of miles. For example: Should I be performing any other maintenance such as replacing the oil pump, checking torque on anything, ???

Thanks for your help!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,921
And did you make sure you got all the bolts out? Especially those last two in the front that always seem to hide under any crud?
I think there might be two of the same pesky ones in the back too, but for sure there are some in the front, and even the occasional oddball near a motor mount that likes to stay hidden until you can twist yourself into a pretzel underneath the truck!

Good luck.
Oh, and I assume (hate it when I say that) you meant the dipstick tube, instead of the pickup tube? Hope so anyway.

Paul
 

suckerpunched

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
882
Hopefully you got it off by now, but if not.
X2 What Paul said, the bolts on front and rear corners are easy to miss.
When they are glued on like that, they can be tough to break loose. It usually takes more than a putty knife or screw driver. If all the bolts are out you may need a pry bar. sometimes they will not come off without bending the pan rail a little, You may have to straighten it after its out.
 
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jerry

jerry

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Jan 28, 2002
Messages
697
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
Well its been a hour.....got it off yet?;)

How is that possible when the pan is still intact?

I gave up.

Oil Pickup tube was on the brain... Dipstick tube was what was actually removed.

That would be one heck of a party trick if I could do that? (lol) Sorry for the typo.
 
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jerry

jerry

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Jan 28, 2002
Messages
697
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
Guys,

Thanks for the replies. I had some other honey-do's to attend to, so I gave up for the afternoon.

I'll grab something sturdier to pry on it. 99% sure I got all of the bolts off, my pan area wasn't too too dirty, and I did pull out the four larger bolts at the front and the rear.

Thanks again guys! I'll report my progress later today.
 

gnpenning

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Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,257
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
When you get it off check a few rod and main bearings while you are there. with a dead blow hammer or a soft mallet try tapping on the side of the pan near the bottom. Don't hit so hard as to dent the pan. X2 on hidden bolts by motor mounts. You got the others.
 

atcee

New Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
2
Hey. Brand new 1989 Bronco owner here... Jumping on this thread because it's Very similar.
I'm dropping my pan and replacing the gasket WITHOUT JACKING THE MOTOR. tomorrow. I have the black rtv permatex, cork gasket, brake cleaner, razor blades.. I sprayed the crap out of everything ( carefully) with degreaser. Gonna rinse and start early.
The guys at ADVANCE told me I couldn't use anything but the cork because I'm just going to have that 3" or so clearance. BUT I don't see why I can't snake a one piece gasket around it. WHAT products would you guys use? RTV /No RTV? Please explain well for this average mechanic. THANKS (anybody) for your help ... JOHN
 
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jerry

jerry

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Jan 28, 2002
Messages
697
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
You guys were right on the money - thanks for the advice! Double checked to make sure all the bolts were out (they were), and went and purchased a nice Estwing dead blow hammer. That provided enough provided enough persuasion to stretch the RTV and get things started, and from there the putty knife finished the job!

I'm actually in the garage as I type this, doing the clean up on the bottom of the case with some WD40 and careful scraping - will follow up with a pass with some carb or brake cleaner as soon as it looks clean.

The other question I had I just answered myself I think - the front and rear rubber seals should just pull off, so I'm going to get back under the truck and get to work.

Oil pickup screen looks clean from the outside - should I still pull it and clean thoroughly? Unless someone advises otherwise, will leave the oil pump for now (until I hook a gauge up to see what my pressure is), and will check the main bearing bolt torque and the rods.

Again, thank you again for the advice guys. It is sincerely appreciated!
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
You should be able to slip in a one piece gasket.
I put one on my sbf 20+ years ago, still no leaks. I got a stud kit too. It made keeping the gasket in place much easier. I used just a little rtv at the corners. Cool thing is it's re-usable.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
checking rod and main torque is fine but take off a couple rod and main caps and check the bearings and crank for wear. Depending on how old the motor is I would do the rear main seal while I was there if it is a 2 piece.
 
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jerry

jerry

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Jan 28, 2002
Messages
697
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
Do I have to pull the trans to do a two piece rear main seal, or just remove the starter shim / flywheel cover at the bottom of the trans?

Another "setback"... PO sheared off one of the oil pan bolts, which explains why one was "missing". It's one on the driver's side by the motor mount. I made one attempt to drill out this evening, but that was challenging my abilities to get the drill bit in the center of the bolt to drill it out. Got tired and frustrated so I called it a night.

Any suggestions on drilling it out would be appreciated - I already have a tap set, so hopefully I can coax it out if I get a decent hole drilled.
 

gnpenning

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Dec 26, 2011
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I have more questions than answers.
With the pan off you should be able to just remove the rear cap and get to the seal. Make sure when you install you off set the ends of the seal so they don't line up with the cap and block.

That bolt should not have been very tight (no rust). Jack up that side and remove motor mount. you might have been able to use a center punch and tap it out . If not use the center punch to get you in the center of the bolt before drilling. Helps to file the broken off bolt flat first.
 
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