302 pan clearence for high volume oil pump

[savage]

Im having my 302 built for me at a local shop,and I ordered a new pan,and when it arrived it was way to sallow for the oil pump.What other choices are their for pans that will work with high volume oil pumps.I have the origanl pan and it mite work but it leaks really bad at the plate where the stick to screw in.

 

[pcf_mark]

I would save the old pan before using that new one. Who know what other fun stuff awaits when you go to install the engine and it hits something else. Weld it or seal it then fill it with water to see if it leaks. Water is much more permeable.

 

[NYLES]

you are using a new pick up for the new pan? I run a high volume and didnt have this issue with a new double hump pan like that.

 

[bronconut73]

I had to grind the bottom of my pump where the plate bolts on.
The bolts are probably still removable but I did grind them pretty hard to get clearance for the pan.
Duffs told me to do this back in......uhhhhh....erhh....'91 or '92....anyway. All that time no issues. Used ths Duff supplied obviously stock double hump pan.

 

[savage]

NYLES,it did come with a new pickup tube but the problem was the new pump hit the bottom of the pan and would not seal.I was looking at a Milodon pan but its huge and 7 quarts not saying thats a bad thing,just a little over kill.The pan that I got that didnt fit,I called and they said it wouldnt work with the high volume pump,that its was a front sump pan made to be a rear sump for the bronco.

 

[DirtDonk]

Looks like a double-sump Fox body pan, except for the side mounted dipstick fitting.
Had the same issue on a friend's Bronco with a Ford Racing high-volume pump. What I did was take a ball-pein hammer and put the pan on a soft pad. A bead bag would be best of course, but all I had at the time was a handy front lawn and moving pad. Worked great though!

Put a mark around the general area I had to deepen and just started going to town on it. It really didn't take much force to deform the pan, and I worked it for about 5 minutes or so (well, maybe 10) and checked it now and then until I had the extra size I needed.
It wasn't pretty, because I didn't take the time to smooth out the little "peins" from the hammer hits. But it worked, and did not distort the pan rail seal area at all.

Paul

 

[NYLES]

NYLES,it did come with a new pickup tube but the problem was the new pump hit the bottom of the pan and would not seal.I was looking at a Milodon pan but its huge and 7 quarts not saying thats a bad thing,just a little over kill.The pan that I got that didnt fit,I called and they said it wouldnt work with the high volume pump,that its was a front sump pan made to be a rear sump for the bronco.

either go "hammer time" on it like Paul or fix your old one, mine is a pan off a 83 crown vic,
You could weld it, solder it, braze it, Id look at removing the rivets do an extreme(wire wheel) clean up under it get a good sealer and Steel rivet it back.

 

[AZ73]

Your new pan doesn't have the indentation for the front differential like your old pan (that little corner cut-off by the drain plug). I have a new pan going on my motor that doesn't have it either (you can see it clearer on this pan: http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/milodon-oil-pan-289-302-7-quart-66-77-ford-bronco-new). I'll have a 2.5 inch SL and my motor mounts add another 3/4 inch, but I'm still going to use bump stops tall enough to make sure the diff doesn't hit the pan. Anyone else have a problem with the diff coming close?

 

[savage]

I notice that where the dip stick screws in the new pan the plate is not rivited ,they taped the holes and srewed it on from the out side to hold the plate on. I think Ill grind the rivits off the old pan and see if its possible to tap holes in the plate and mount it that way.Whats the smallest tap you can get?

 

[NYLES]

I notice that where the dip stick screws in the new pan the plate is not rivited ,they taped the holes and srewed it on from the out side to hold the plate on. I think Ill grind the rivits off the old pan and see if its possible to tap holes in the plate and mount it that way.Whats the smallest tap you can get?

pretty darn lil.....Id still just re rivet it after you get it off is the old one bad or leaking around it?

 

[savage]

Hey NYLES,its leaking around the edges.I figured the tap would be really small,just trying to figure the easyiest way to fix it.

 

[70_Steve]

I notice that where the dip stick screws in the new pan the plate is not rivited ,they taped the holes and srewed it on from the out side to hold the plate on. I think Ill grind the rivits off the old pan and see if its possible to tap holes in the plate and mount it that way.Whats the smallest tap you can get?

I bought a new pan for my 351 from Ford Motorsports about 2 years ago. It was rivited, and, sitting on the bench, I could see light between the pan and the dipstick housing!!!

I ground off the rivits, and drilled and tapped the dipstick housing for 1/4-28 bolts. I added three more for a total of 7 bolts. Only used RTV to seal, but let it sit for a week before installing and adding oil, to make sure the RTV was fully cured.

 

[NYLES]

Im gonna guess sight unseen that the sealer between the plate and pan are 40 years old and finally just give up.....id grind the rivets clean em both up leave a rough surface...good sealer in between and rivet it back.

Im thinkin maybe jb weld for sealer...something thatll last...not no RTV(this was not directed @ steve)

rivets still easier......steel no aluminum

 

[Desert Dweller]

All the sealer was a thick paper gasket... I ground the rivets, drilled extra holes, cleaned it up real good and used JB Weld for a sealer. Bolted it back together with #10 machine screws and nylocks. Hasn't leaked there for a couple years...

 

[70_Steve]

Im thinkin maybe jb weld for sealer...something thatll last...not no RTV(this was not directed @ steve)

Well, I sure didn't take it personal, NYLES! But I'm curious about why you don't feel RTV is an appropriate sealant.

Mines been together for 2 years and 7K miles with no leaks.

 

[NYLES]

I rather this be a once n for all time done job....rtv will eventually leak.

 

[anoblefox]

the JB weld will be just the ticket. I would not however trust a true nylock nut, since the HOT engine oil will weaken the nylock material. You could use the smashed or crimped nut type with complete success.

 

[KyleQ]

There is ZERO reason for a high volume pump - its just going to put more stress on the distributor shaft and cam gear.

Stock runs forever - is 60psi not enough?

 

[savage]

I think Ill do the JB weld,still up in the air about doing rivits or bolts or screws.Im not getting the engine for two more weeks so have plenty of time to decied.Thanks for all the imput!! KyleQ Thanks for the heads up,the engine builder thats doing the job is building a high perfomance 302, and his family has been building engines for 50 plus years,and has a good reputation around here.

 

[bronconut73]

There is ZERO reason for a high volume pump - its just going to put more stress on the distributor shaft and cam gear.

Stock runs forever - is 60psi not enough?

Yea.
After all the work I did to install my high volume pump, I later found I did not need one.
Sometimes I end up with a little too much oil in my valve covers. Not good since that oil should be draining down sooner to feed the lifter valley and back to the pan to be pumped into the bearings. If your high volume pump is putting out too much presssure you could starve your bearings cause all the oil is in the top of the engine.
The high volume/pressure oil pumps on sbf's are probably not needed by us eb guys even with an oil cooler and big pans.