3spd Tranny Removal question??

[BoltBuster]

351W w/ 3spd Tranny

Can the Transmission be removed with Bell housing intact or do I have to separate the two to get it out far enough to drop it?


It appears I may hit the firewall/floor pan with the bell housing trying to get it out all at once, instead of pulling the tranny off the housing first. :-

Advice welcomed-

 

[swa0330]

I would remove the tranny and then the bell housing. The bellhosuing would just make it difficult to remove things somewhat. Once you have the tranny off, it is a piece of cake to get the bellhousing off and it's just a few more bolts. When you remove the tranny, make sure it's in first gear because that keeps pressure on the input shaft and doesn't allow the needle bearings to fall out. good luck

 

[TexasBronco]

when i removed mine i had to drop the crossmemeber too.

 

[supermottl]

Just did this.
I loosened up all eight bolts that holt the cross-member in, then took out all 4 bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing and slid the whole tranny/t-case back, while slowly lowering a tranny jack. DEFINATELY RENT ONE!!! these effing things are heavier than life, and you won't be able to hold it up for long.. (unless you are Arnold, 20 years ago). Plus you get better control of what's going on.
Make sure you remove all shifters, shifter brackets, and the speedo cable. In my truck the shifter brackets would have hit the floor

To remove the bell-housing, it's like, 4-6 more bolts that are easy to get at, and remove the starter.

Good luck. If you have any more Q's just ask cuz, it's fresh in my head. I just finished my tranny swap this past WE

 

[swa0330]

[quote author=supermottl link=board=5;threadid=16590;start=0#msg126358 date=1050947043]
Just did this.
I loosened up all eight bolts that holt the cross-member in, then took out all 4 bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing and slid the whole tranny/t-case back, while slowly lowering a tranny jack. DEFINATELY RENT ONE!!! these effing things are heavier than life, and you won't be able to hold it up for long.. (unless you are Arnold, 20 years ago). Plus you get better control of what's going on.
Make sure you remove all shifters, shifter brackets, and the speedo cable. In my truck the shifter brackets would have hit the floor

To remove the bell-housing, it's like, 4-6 more bolts that are easy to get at, and remove the starter.

Good luck. If you have any more Q's just ask cuz, it's fresh in my head. I just finished my tranny swap this past WE
[/quote]

I agree, if you are going to remove the tranny and transfer case as one, don't EVEN try to use a tranny jack. That whole combo is easily over 200lbs and will f.. you up if it falls on you. You will need to remove the transfer case and crossmember. The cool thing about removing the two as one unit, is that you don't have to worry about dropping needle bearings, which is a big problem.

 

[Thegns]

Hey, not to change the subject, but how do you put it back in and line up the clutch with bell and tranny apart? I'm going pulling mine real soon and would like to know before hand. Thanks

 

[supermottl]

[quote author=Thegns2 link=board=5;threadid=16590;start=0#msg126796 date=1051077505]
Hey, not to change the subject, but how do you put it back in and line up the clutch with bell and tranny apart? I'm going pulling mine real soon and would like to know before hand. Thanks
[/quote]

Assuming you took off the bell housing, you'll see the clutch pressure plate and all that gear. If you re-surfaced the flywhere, and got a new clutch kit, here's where the alignment tool comes in. stick the allignment tool through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, then put on the pressure place, tightening each pressure plate bolt little by little. Now, you can take the allignment tool out, as the pressure place has sandwiched the clutch disk between the flywheel and pressure place. Don't worry, it's not going anywhere. Next, you put the bell-housing back on. JUST the bellhousing. This bolts up to the engine, and through the engine plate. Now, when you go to stick the tranny back up in there, make sure you have the tranny in a gear (not nuetral) so you can line up the splines on the input shaft with those in the clutch disk. Do this by turning the yolk on the t-case. Everything else will be lines up already, just aim the input shaft from the tranny, right into the hole of the clutch disk, and fire away. Keep inching the tranny forward untill you feel it pop into to the pilot bearing. It it doesn't go in smooth, the tranny prolly has a bad angle. You should adjust the tranny jack (or whatever yer using) so everything is level.
Once the tranny is butted right up against the bell housing, bolt it up, and bolt up the cross member and yer done - you can remove the tranny jack...

Anymore Qs just ask

 

[BoltBuster]

Thanks Guys,

I'm going to have a metal Transmission Bracket fabricated for my 5 ton jack. Regular Tranny jack would have to catch my tranny from the tire height

 

[chuck]

You can get it all out at once or a piece at a time, what every you like but the important thing is to support the load so that you can get the trans back in without warping the disc. If you can't get it all the way in and let the weaght of the trans hang on the disc the chances are very good that it will warp and if it warps a little the clutch will chatter espeiically in reverse the more warp the more chatter. I use a trany jack.

 

[Thegns]

I wasn't going to replace the clutch, but I probably should while I'm in there. thank for the info.