4r70w management with built motor

[BanditBronco]

Question for anyone running a "not stock" engine w/ EDIS swap running the explorer computer controlling the transmission. Say you have a 351w swap running explorer ignition and are using the stock transmission harness along with it. Is the transmission tunable at all? Will it shift like a stock explorer or can you tighten them up? Will it hold 1st and 2nd if you have the shifter in that position?

I am planning on swapping to explorer efi on my 351w with aluminum heads and a cam and am trying to decide if I ditch the stand alone transmission controller while I am at it.

Will the stock computer allow me to throw it in 4 low, go duning and shift between first and second all day running 4-5k rpms?

 

[Broncobowsher]

There is only so much the transmission can be tightened up with software. Pretty much just spiking line pressure. Now a shift kit can speed things up that software can then back off with dropped line pressure. I prefer the Baumann (or whatever name they use now) kits because each modification they go through the effort to explain what that modification does and give 3-5 setting and what each one will do. If you wanted the 1-2 shift to hammer hard and the 3-4 to be stock, that can be done.

As for a controller. I do not know the current state of how programable the Explorer stuff is. But for a built motor there is a bunch of part throttle shift points that will likely need tuning. This will get difficult with a remote tuner. The full throttle stuff is easy, predictable and repeatable for tuning.

Manual 2nd gear is a full computer override. The only thing the computer still has control over is line pressure and convertor lock up. You select 2nd' gear, your get 2nd. 1st gear is a little different, the trans will give you 2nd until the computer allows a 1st gear apply. This is to avoid over-reving the engine if selected too fast of a speed. But that is software driven. In theory tunable, if any tuners have bothered to chase that setting to know where it is at.

 

[Bronco-Brian]

Running US Shift (formally Bauman) on my 4r70W set-up. I fiddled with quarterhorse ecu tuner, and gave up. The us shift units are nice, easy to install, and offer tons of custom tune that is far simpler than the oem stuff. They also have a multiple program knob that allows your tunes to be called up on the fly (daily, sport, off road, towing, etc...) pick what ever you need.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Running US Shift (formally Bauman) on my 4r70W set-up. I fiddled with quarterhorse ecu tuner, and gave up. The us shift units are nice, easy to install, and offer tons of custom tune that is far simpler than the oem stuff. They also have a multiple program knob that allows your tunes to be called up on the fly (daily, sport, off road, towing, etc...) pick what ever you need.

I did the same thing 15 years ago. But that was with mustang based EFI and a computer for AOD-E. The tuner transmission tuning was not that good. WOT was a struggle, part throttle just turned into whatever it happen to be. Fixed with a stand alone controller. Didn't bring it up since this pre-dates the tuned Explorer computers and I don't know what software is available for that tuning. Been many years.

But that multiple shift tables was really cool. Because a shift map that works good around town isn't the same as one that will work good in low range.

 

[BanditBronco]

Just to confirm, I currently run a stand alone transmission controller, not a US Shift but a PCS, I know that it will work well enough for my application as it is doing so currently.

I am trying to understand if removing the stand alone and going to explorer ecm controlled transmission is a better call for when the EFI is swapped from EEC-IV to EEC-V.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That would be a conversation to have with the tuner. If they admit they can't tune a transmission... Or if they say it is no problem...

 

[sanndmann3]

I'm running E.D.I.S. with 351W, Edelbrock aluminum heads, and Lightning upper/lower and run the dunes pretty much exclusively. I run low range and have never done anything with trans shifts. Explorer computer controls 4R trans. On dunes I defeat overdrive and let it run thru the gears. for climbing hills I will just manually shift down to 2nd and just let 'r rip.
p.s. if you are running stock D'20 transfer case, I have concluded that they really don't like to rev in low range. copper plated washers on idler shaft take a real beating especially the rear one. after 3 20's, I went NP205...

 

[BanditBronco]

I'm running E.D.I.S. with 351W, Edelbrock aluminum heads, and Lightning upper/lower and run the dunes pretty much exclusively. I run low range and have never done anything with trans shifts. Explorer computer controls 4R trans. On dunes I defeat overdrive and let it run thru the gears. for climbing hills I will just manually shift down to 2nd and just let 'r rip.
p.s. if you are running stock D'20 transfer case, I have concluded that they really don't like to rev in low range. copper plated washers on idler shaft take a real beating especially the rear one. after 3 20's, I went NP205...

That is more along the lines of what I was looking for, a little real world experience, thanks sanndmann3.

 

[nvrstuk]

How about a SilverFox reverse valve body with full manual control?

No doubt about staying in any gear you want.

I have used a Baumann (now USShift for yrs) on my 4r for 11 yrs and my 6r for 1 and you can shift in or out of any gear at any speed that you program into it. Or you can let it shift on it's own faster than you can hit the button to shift it on your own while fighting the steering wheel.

 

[BanditBronco]

I haven't heard Jeromy's review on the silverfox valve body yet, I was hoping he would give us a download after Moab.

I was just trying to get confirmation on whether or not to keep the transmission side of everything when I modify the explorer harness. I would rather clean up my harness and have less wiring by removing the stand alone transmission controller. If the stock configuration of the transmission control was going to be sufficient for my needs.

I am assuming letting the explorer computer handle it will probably provide me with a less "glitchy" feel anyway so I am pretty sure that is the route I am going to go. If I don't like it then I will head down the mechanical road with a RMVB.

 

[nvrstuk]

Before the manual reverse valve body was finished I talked to the builder (Silverfox-Id have to look up his name in my notes) and we discussed pros and cons.

I had several concerns about the mrvb for my personal use..

1- It would never be an automatic for a simple drive to town OR

2- or as an all out assault in lets say snow where you really need 2 hands on the strg wheel.

3- Rowing thru a Winters shifter can be a total pain in the butt. Is it 6 or 7 total changes in direction with the shifter EVERY time you start up or shut down from "P" to "1"?

4- For me and I am not an occasional driver- it get's old fast rowing thru the gears. I've been running a Winters for 12 years and put thousands of miles on a month at times. It's not smooth like a Lokar, it's ackward, 90 deg movements and noisy. That's MY opinion but I drive it a LOT.

5- Another reason if you are on the trail and in 3rd or 4th and want to shift out or into a different range in your tcase you have to shift from 3rd to 2nd to 1st to neutral (slow waaay down) , then shift your tcase and then work your speed back up- if you can.

These are the main reasons I didnt wait for it when he was finishing design. Personal choice. Jaromy liked his at Moab - - it worked great as we wheeled some of the same trails. No issues that he shared anyway. Worked super. He liked it and so did another guy that had just swapped it in.

Its a personal choice more than it works or doesnt work type of scenario.