5 1/2 lift,driveshafts????

[Lime73sport]

hey, if i was to run a 5 1/2 lift would i have to get longer drive shafts?

 

[Apogee]

Yes...and expect potential binding issues with the front shaft at the diff if you're not running a high-pinion housing and have some flex potential. Do a search as there have been a lot of threads on this exact subject and lots of different solutions.

 

[GnisroH]

I'm running a 5.5" suspension lift, and I had to get both shafts lengthened...

Right now I have the stock 44 in, but as Apogee said, definitely plan on an HP44 swap.

 

[ArmyCOL]

I have a WH 5.5" suspension lift I am going to put on mine. What is a good donor vehicle for the HP44? Would double cardans at both ends of the drive shaft work as well?

Chuck

 

[onebadd73]

A 78-79 Bronco or F150 would be a good candidate for a hp44. Some 70's F250's had a heavy duty hp 44( 8 lug though). They already have disc brakes and the 5 on 5 lug nut pattern. The only issue is that they are full with, about 6 inches wider than a stock bronco dana 30/44.

 

[Apogee]

Here's a list of some possible options:

1. Cut and rotate knuckles on EB Dana 44. This will allow you to rotate your pinion upward until it points at the transfer case and not lose all of your caster in the process. This would use a double cardan style joint at the t-case and standard joint at the pinion. This is a great option if you've already sunk a ton of money and aftermarket parts (gears, axles, lockers, etc) into your existing axle.

2. Swap in a high-pinion Dana 44/60 from late 70's Ford F150 or F250. The best axles IMO are the 76-77 F150 fronts because they have disc brakes and welded C-wedges if you want to stick with the 5x5.5" wheel pattern. The 78-79 F150 Dana 44's had cast in C-wedges but otherwise are more or less the same overall, both of which are 65" wide, about 6 inches wider than the stock EB axle. A 77.5-79 F250 Dana 44 is 69" wide and a good option if you want to swap over to an 8-lug setup. A 78-79 Ford Dana 60 is the holy grail of front axles and one of the best choices for severe duty short of a Mog or Rockwell...but good luck finding one for less than $1000 used.

3. Buy a hybrid driveshaft from Jesse at High-Angle Driveline or somewhere similar and have it built for long-travel and high angularity. There are some tricks that can be done using Toyota parts and some other aftermarket components to get your shaft to live under not so great conditions but plan on spending $400-$600.

Hope that helps a little.

 

[cruiser]

you can also go with a newer (mid 80's HP60) like I did, it is the Identical axle to the 78'-79' hp60 except you have the center section about an 1-1/2" further outboard, which works out better if you are narrowing the axle to the 63-65" range. dont dick around with a 44 if you are planning on ever going bigger than 35's. good luck!

 

[Madgyver]

I extended and wleded up my stock driveshafts later got it balance at driveshaft shop....

 

[Apogee]

I extended and wleded up my stock driveshafts later got it balance at driveshaft shop....

Mad, did you have to clearance the yokes to keep it from binding? I had to hit mine with a 3.5" lift...there definitely seems to be some variations between Dana 44's with respect to where Dana decided to locate the knuckles with respect to the pinion angle.

 

[Lime73sport]

yeh well I'm really on a low budget so i think I'm going to just get a 3 1/2 for now and then maybe a lil body lift


thanks for all the info

 

[Madgyver]

Mad, did you have to clearance the yokes to keep it from binding? I had to hit mine with a 3.5" lift...there definitely seems to be some variations between Dana 44's with respect to where Dana decided to locate the knuckles with respect to the pinion angle.

Sorry, I forgot to mention it.
Yes I did have to work the CV yokes with a grinder. I've done a bunch already and now where to start. With driveshaft in hand you can tell where it will hit so you grind down the areas. When installed check to see if it clears while turning the driveshaft by hand. Grind it down till it clears now you can get the driveshaft balanced.

Most of the grinding is done to the front driveshaft.
One day I will be rotating the knuckles but I will wait to see if the doubler will set the T-case back further and reduce the angle.

 

[Apogee]

yeh well I'm really on a low budget so i think I'm going to just get a 3 1/2 for now and then maybe a lil body lift


thanks for all the info

That's a good idea...but I'm a fan of the sawzall. When I bought my 3.5" CAGE lift from Mike at J&M Offroad (shameless plug for a good vendor), he mentioned that he loved his 5.5" lift, but would've chosen to go with a 3.5" if he could do it all over again. Considering that was the direction I was already leaning, it was nice to get that confirmation before dropping a large chunk of change.

 

[cgbexec]

I did the 3.5" Bullit Proof Suspension system from JBGY. The front lift is actually 4". It consists of 2.5" coils with new longer front radius arms that have 1.5" of lift built into them. I ordered a new longer Rockwell drive shaft and it binds. (I can rotate it, but you can feel the bind.) I have a low pinion 44. I am going to order a new high angle drive shaft for the front rather than cut the knuckles.

Chris B.