6 port Tank Switch Valve w/ stock selector switch

[HankAaron74]

Hi everyone.

Working on a 73' with FI Tech fuel injection and factory duel fuel tanks. Whoever installed the 6-port tank switching valve didnt wire the switch correctly, so owner keeps running one tank empty and it doesnt switch to the other tank.

I know the valve motor moves by switching polarity between the 2 motor wires. Does the OEM tank selector switch have that capability? I see all kinds of diagrams about the switch with the stock 3 port valve, but not with the 6 port valve.

I dont mind if we have to switch to a new switch, but wasnt sure if there was a way to make the OEM one work.

Thanks,

 

[lars]

Wired correctly the OEM switch, a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch will operate a 6 port valve just fine. It will control both flow and senders. I used the stock switch to control a Ford-specific Pollak 6 port motorized switching valve for 20 years.

Actually two of them, as the first one failed after 15 years. When the second one started getting flakey I installed a mechanical 6 port valve which was a bit of a plumbing nightmare but utterly reliable.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The dpdt factory switch can be used to reverse polarity. Then the tank switching is done by the valve. That is both senders go to the valve and the valve has an internal switch to select which signal goes to the dash.

 

[HankAaron74]

Perfect! How is it wired? lol

 

[Oldtimer]

 

[HankAaron74]

That worked perfectly! Thank you for the help!

 

[DirtDonk]

I left the wiring on the back of my switch stock for the gauges, and simply added a wire or wires to control the valve.
I didn’t utilize all the wires in the connector for the switching valve because I didn’t need to redesign the gauge wiring. So mine simply controls the tank selection on one row, and the gauges on the other.
Or something along those lines!

 

[Broncobowsher]

I left the wiring on the back of my switch stock for the gauges, and simply added a wire or wires to control the valve.
I didn’t utilize all the wires in the connector for the switching valve because I didn’t need to redesign the gauge wiring. So mine simply controls the tank selection on one row, and the gauges on the other.
Or something along those lines!

But they were having issues with the driver not switching both in sync and causing out of fuel issues. The above is a great solution.
I ran a manual selector valve and 2 gas gauges

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ve always liked the two gauge solutions in some situations. But it’s always problematic finding room in a bronco for extra anything!

 

[Broncobowsher]

I’ve always liked the two gauge solutions in some situations. But it’s always problematic finding room in a bronco for extra anything!

You can replace the factory temp gauge with another fuel Gauge. Easy when you have aftermarket oil and temperature gauges.

 

[76Broncofromhell]

The GM variant of the valve is a little more user friendly, has 3/8" barb fittings and is rated to 65PSI. It has the added benefit of doing the sender signal switching at the actual fuel valve as well:

Standard Motors U7000 FV5

ACDelco U7000

 

[lars]

The GM variant of the valve is a little more user friendly, has 3/8" barb fittings and is rated to 65PSI. It has the added benefit of doing the sender signal switching at the actual fuel valve as well:

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PNX1NN2/?tag=classicbroncos-20

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http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013FY5KW/?tag=classicbroncos-20

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Actually the Ford-specific Pollak motorized valve also controls the senders. At least both of the ones I had did. That said the GM style with barb fittings sure is more user-friendly.

 

[Steve83]

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