71/66 build

[rusty2078]

Hi all, finally stopped lurking and am starting into a build up...long story long: chassis is '71, complete with all rolling essentials (org 6 cyl truck, 302 swapped in at some point, 3 spd, D20, 9' and I believe D44 front)
body is '66, remarkably minimal rust for a Canadian bronco (then again, was probably sidelined by collision damage...).
Starting into working on the tub this winter (thankfully with the help of a very talented buddy/journeyman OCD meticulous bodyman).
Based on the collective experience, is there one vendor (or vendors) that market better quality sheet metal products...I'd rather work slowly as my budget allows (with better panels) than go cheaper/build quicker.

And yes, hopefully someday soon some pictures to follow. Thanks for your help, well in advance. This may be long/drawn out/filled with lots of questions....

Cheers! Rusty

 

[half cab]

Welcome n sounds like you have a good plan.

As for as vendors on the sheet metal ...Tom's n Wild Horses are the only two I've used for that and was well pleased . Others may chime in on some the other vendors

good luck with it!

 

[sprdv1]

Welcome.. Look forward to the pics... Soon I hope










Vote

 

[hightime]

Welcome,

As you already know, these guys are great.

Owen

 

[rusty2078]

OK, been trying to find posts/threads on uploading photos...as I'm not terribly computer savvy...help!

 

[broncodriver99]

OK, been trying to find posts/threads on uploading photos...as I'm not terribly computer savvy...help!

Here ya go.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27815

 

[rusty2078]

Cool, well now that I'm a contributor.....

The '66, body donor

 

[rusty2078]

The '71 frame and organ donor....(post stripping down and cleaning...6 bottles of oven cleaner and 2 pressure washings later!

 

[rusty2078]

worst lift ever

OK, this is possibly the worst home made lift ever....about 6-7' pipe on the saddles, 2' square tubing scabbed onto the frame and front diff, along with a spacer brazed in and new steering knuckle on the passenger's side

 

[Glass Pony]

OK, this is possibly the worst home made lift ever....

Wow! You are right about that!

 

[Bronco Junkie]

Oh my...that looks scary!

 

[gnsteam]

Boy that must have drive like crap!%)

 

[half cab]

Y'all done forget about some of socks with sandals jive I see ,but yea that's pretty bad!

 

[rusty2078]

The back story is kind of interesting...apparently (going by the state of the sheet metal underneath and the firewall) my best guess was it was hit on the front end, hard enough to drive the original 6 into the tunnel (bent the upper cowl down in the process). All of the front metal had been removed and a 283/4spd combo were grafted in, along with power steering....


the engine mounts were fabbed out of approx 1/4' by 1.5' flat stock, bent to shape and welded in

 

[rusty2078]

all of the front sheet metal had been removed and re-welded in place (probably to facilitate the engine swap)....the front crossmember had been cut out to graft a power steering pump in as well[/ATTACH]

 

[rusty2078]

after everything was scabbed back together, the PO decided it was time for some wheeling down in Colorado/Utah and proceeded to tow it down View attachment 314210

View attachment 314211

he probably should have made sure the transfer case wasn't engaged first...pretty much circumferential break in the bell housing

 

[rusty2078]

doors/top swap onto a 66 tub??

Looking at a 75 parts bronco (front end collision damage) for the top, doors and windshield frame and any other misc articles that may pop up. I know that the early, early Broncos (?66-68?) had different doors and top than the later ones.

Providing that both are switched (doors/top) from the '75 (onto the 66 tub), will this work? Also added bonus of power wipers, D44, etc etc.

 

[BoureeOne]

66/67 Doors have the striker in a different place. So without mods to either the striker location and type, or the door itself, they will not work. Main difference of the 66/67 top is the rear lift gate and where they bolt on to the windshield frame. Can you post a pic of the top from the rear with the lift hatch down.

Scott

 

[BoureeOne]

Also, its the 66/67 doors that are unique. Unique for what I mentioned before, and unique in that the upper frames are bolted on, and can be removed. 68 doors are unique in the fact that they have the same mechanism and striker as all doors post 67, but they are also the only doors post 67 that also have the removable upper frames. 68 doors are hard to come buy and usually expensive. Are your 66 doors no good? Also, your 66 windshield is also unique. It bolts on as opposed to welded on. Plus it has the wiper holes in different locations because of the vacuum wipers.

Scott

 

[rusty2078]

Thanks Bouree. My tub is workable to restore (firewall actually has collision damage instead of rust!), the doors actually have more dents than rust...unfortunately, dents along the body contour on the upper 1/2. The windshield frame had a lot of soft top snaps drilled into it at some point as well (lots of work to weld/fill, as opposed to replace). The floor pans need replacing up front, but seat base back it's solid. The drivers rocker was dented at some point and poorly filled (will be replacing), and the passenger's was actually rust free and undamaged...however, PO both brazed (first) and welded (second) the rocker and fender together...which meant that I had to cut up the good stock rocker to get the damaged beyond repair fender off!
The door jambs could be left and patched here and there, however, I'd rather spend a bit more on new jambs now, than have the inevitable rust pop up several years down the line.
That said, if the parts '75 has decent doors...switch top/doors, provided that the jambs and strikers are compatible with the '75...?
My Dad always says I have to do everything the hard way..!