However, I noticed the ball joints are installed versa-visa regarding the snap-rings. Would that make a difference?
Not sure what you're referring to regarding the snap-rings.
Sometimes they don't have them, sometimes they do. Usually the lower joints have them installed and the uppers are missing due to the casting not having been machined quite enough to allow the rings to be included.
But it could go either way.
The pre-load of the existing ball joints isn't bad, not rough, smooth, about 16-18lbs of pull on my fish scale.
that's perfect!
I'd leave them alone unless your testing determined that they were worn out and floppy.
Did you do the steering test with the tires on the ground to put pressures against things? If not then you don't really know if they're bad or not. Unless here again you can do the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock tug-o-war on the tire and see/feel the slop.
Otherwise they're in good shape.
Forgot to mention, with Gary turning the steering wheel , about 1 1/2" of slop, and with the engine running, seems less. Going to see what new ball joints do, but not expecting much improvement, but will have new ball joints
The lessening of play in the gearbox is normal. The fluid pressure is building up inside and putting pressure on things. Effectively tightening up tolerances so to speak.
But changing ball-joints (especially perfectly good ones) should not reduce slop in the gearbox. Nor will it shorten the play of the steering wheel. Here again, unless the old ones are so floppy and worn out that they're imparting movement into a different plane.
You CAN'T use the steering wheel play (if that's what you were talking about?) as an indicator of worn out components after the steering box. The play you see at the wheel "might" be entirely inside the gearbox itself. Hence the test where you visually watch every component on the front end while the helper turns the wheel back and forth.
For this test you don't even need the engine running. It's easier done that way, but not necessary. You're not looking for movement at the steering wheel in that case, you're looking for movement that should not be there everywhere else.
If during that test the knuckles are not moving in any directly but spinning directly on the ball-joints, then the joints are fine.
This test will point out broken wheels, cracked frames, worn tie-rod ends and ball joints, loose wheel bearings, loose and/or wobbled out trackbar upper bolts, loose or broken welds on the lower trackbar bolt, and literally just about any other problem that might exist in the suspension and steering systems.
Totally worth the two minutes it takes to perform it.
Well, except in your case the fact you'd have to put the wheels back on first to get there.
And it might just help you avoid putting inferior products on your Bronco in the form of poorly manufactured, or fully defective ball-joints and sleeves.
Paul
