'77 build- body and Susp lift and tire combo

[Scubadds]

I just posted on the "Chat" side, that I acquired a '77 mid build
In 2007 they installed the James Duff 3" body and 5" Suspension parts. (it is still sitting on stands)
It is presently mocked up with no wheels or tires (don't have any)

The body shop had made custom brackets to correct the bumper heights and the twin shock mount has been welded. Such that lowering the body lift will be undoing more work than I realized.

So If I leave the 3" body, I can go down to a 3.5" lift without too much effort. As it has the trac bars that need at least a 3" Suspension lift to work
So does anyone have or seen a 3" BL and 3.5" SL? Does that seem reasonable?

I hope to not cut the fender, and I also have C4 and 4.88 gears now with truetrac. I was advised to try the 4R70W which at this point seems like a good option.
As far as tires, I don't need really wide tires.
I am thinking a 33" x 10.5 would be the sweet spot

I guess another way of asking is 6.5" LUBR vs cut? What tires will work with a LUBR
Any thoughts on this setup? Thanks guys

 

[half cab]

My question is does your '77 still have the factory inverted "Y" steering? If so you get past 2.5 sup. Lift n your in trouble.

 

[Glass Pony]

With 4.88 gears and 33" tires, an overdrive transmission would be a excellent idea.
How are you going to use this Bronco? The more information the better the responses will be and post up some pictures. We love pictures!

 

[Scubadds]

thanks
I don't know about the steering yet
I have seen this in the body shop for many years....guy finally decided to sell.
Once I heard he would sell, I got cash and paid him and got all the parts...
This was monday night and I only got to go to body shop that day at lunch and peak at it, I have a few crappy pics, and it has stuff in it now... I will go over tomorrow and get pics.
I previously built up a defender 90 with 35's super swampers, and didn't enjoy the ride.
We have a farm an hour away and it might be nice to use this to get there some; mainly riding over to the beach, around town etc. I am not looking to wheel it, for the sake of just wheeling it; but our farm has some nasty mud that I do want to be able to handle.

 

[duffymahoney]

Take pictures of the bumper attachment for the body lift. You could go 1" or 1.5" SL and keep the body lift.

 

[Scubadds]

Take pictures of the bumper attachment for the body lift. You could go 1" or 1.5" SL and keep the body lift.

The problem with going less than 3" is the hoop for the taller suspension then would collide with the inner fender. So that would have to be removed and replaced.
I would also have to remove the trac arms and the mounts.... (need 3" of lift)
and reconfigure the front and rear bumpers...

just a lot of work, I will do it if necessary; just trying to research all options before I get out the grinder

 

[Scubadds]

a few random pics. They were going seamless rear quarter panel area, but are not finished sanding

 

[DirtDonk]

There was a discussion here just a week or three ago about using those longer radius arms with less suspension lift. I think even MonsterMike (Duff) added some info as well.
Would be worth hunting that thread down to see if there is any pertinent info. Because for what you are intending, I agree that less suspension lift is better. You just don't need that much and it might even look funny up too high.
Personally though, I think you could get away with 2.5" suspension lift and work out the details from there. But check out what others say about it first.

The control arms in question (that run front to back) are the "radius arms".
The shock hoops are definitely welded up high, and '77's had their own inner wheel well shape anyway from what I remember, making things a little unique for you as well.
However, in a pinch the welds could still be ground off without destroying the hoops, and you could go back to single shock and sell the hoops to someone that needs multiple shocks or longer wheel travel.

Same for the radius arms in fact. I'm sure someone would gladly trade you the longer arms for a set of stock ones with mounts plus some cash. But that's down the road too. Nothing wrong with utilizing the longer arms as long as your shocks are good. And even better if you have anti-sway bars installed.

Check out the three categories here: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Bronco_Tie_Rods_Drag_Links to familiarize yourself with the different factory setups, and some of the different ways to update it if needed.
The stock '77 "Inverted-Y" linkage was very good when stock height and tire sizes were maintained. But the more the other aspects are changed, the less desirable the factory Y-linkage became.
With all the previous mods done to yours though, you might find it's already been changed.

Congrats by the way! Looking forward to seeing more pics of it as you go.

Paul

 

[half cab]

Not trying to pic your bronco apart but sure looks like an awful lot ot body fillers in that rear quarter? Also you probably already have the steering converted. Just a guess.

Whoever started all the upgrades would have known about the inverted "Y" problems I believe when they started this project.

 

[Scubadds]

Not trying to pic your bronco apart but sure looks like an awful lot ot body fillers in that rear quarter? Also you probably already have the steering converted. Just a guess.

Whoever started all the upgrades would have known about the inverted "Y" problems I believe when they started this project.

It is leaded, and best I can tell has a small amount of filler that has yet to be sanded
I think the previous owner had ordered new steering parts....

 

[Apogee]

My '77 has 3.5" long-arm SL plus 2" BL with 33's and I think it looks goofy, but my fenders are cut front and rear as well. That said, my lift choice was to help clear the 351W, NV4500, full width F150 axles and 37's.

If you do really only intend to run 33's, then I'd look at 2.5" to 3.5" SL plus maybe 2" body unless you really don't want to mess with the shock mounts. It's not that hard to cut a few welds IMO, so now would be the time to build it the way you want it.

 

[LilMixedUp]

IMO... if the Bronco and frame are in good shape, make it like you want. Cut the hoops and rear shock mounts off. I know its about $450 loss, but better up front that after the fact. I have Duff extended radius arms, Sexton front hoop, and old school duals on the rear of my 77 running 2-1/2 suspension, 1"BL with 35's. So you could easily run 33's with 2-1/2 suspension.

 

[Scubadds]

thanks
I am going to try the 3.5" SL and see how that looks. with the 3" BL.
Keep in mind, this is just a shell at this point and it should be a very quick and easy swap for the leaf's and springs...
I was able to find some Ford/Dodge steel wheels that were in good/new condition that had some bald BFG 35 x 12.5 17. I am a good ways from being able to try these on, but I will test fit everything and if nothing else have something to move this around the shop
If the 35s don't fit, I can try to find something a tab bit smaller or narrow or tweak my backspacing from there
Thanks
I have no problems cutting all the stuff off if need be. But I really don't want to cut it off then regret it...my body shop is working on other stuff at the moment anyway..