77 tie rod and drag link

[spap]

Those are slotted rotors haaaa
Oh shat that's bad and made noise for a long time

 

[sprdv1]

yeah that is what I meant by the slight outward bend. I will take a picture later of front but I was told it was the wrong Y. New wheels and tires all balanced. Just have a bunch of movement in steering wheel over 50 mph so was thinking first of the drag link and tie rod to replace.

Thoughts

We shoulda had this conversation at OCBR lol

 

[sprdv1]

You might check a few things while you're at it. Aside from the test I described earlier to find out what's loose or worn out, you should verify that the toe-in was reset after the lift.
The Inverted-Y linkage changes toe as the suspension height changes. If the PO did not adjust it after the lift, it surely needs it!
Toe in can make a huge difference in how it feels out on the road.

I just spent the last week or so tweaking my toe over an approx. 1/2" range (actually 15/32") and saw some interesting characteristic changes. I'm leaving it at 3/32 toe-in for the moment since it seems to have the best manners all around with my combination.
Every Bronco and it's driver can like a different setting. You can default to the factory specs and get pretty darn good, but once you've been driving your Bronco for awhile you can sometimes get it even better by tweaking the toe-in just a smidge.

I got as high as 7/32 toe-OUT and while it drove nicely on the road and slow u-turns good, low-speed turn-in was "strange" feeling to me. Otherwise the toe-out setting was better than the 1/4" toe-IN that I had before.
Settled on the 3/32 toe-in and like the straight line feel, the low, mid and high speed turn-in, and even the u-turnability with this setting.
Now I need to go back and find my alignment printout to see what the actual degree setting was when it was aligned. Did not like the feel, but did not measure at the time. Just started turning the adjusting sleeve and measuring after.
In the end though, the actual measurement only matters for repeatability. How it "feels" is the bottom line.

By the way, if anyone is curious, on the older T-style a full turn of the adjuster is approx. 15/32" or close enough to a half-inch as to not matter to most. I did not actually verify I was turning it precisely that full turn, but was close enough for my needs.
When messing around I usually use 1/8 turn increments to dial mine in to where I like it. Then narrow those down to a 1/16 of a turn if I'm being really persnickety.
And then if needed, or just curious, I will final check it with a tape measure.

Yes sir...Â…Â….

 

[sprdv1]

When I crawled under to look at all of it I noticed my discs looked like it had a groove in it on the driver sideÂ….I have never seen this before. Other side is smooth

Someone drove with the inner pad worn down and the rivets carved a channel into the rotor. Any new pad installed will now develop a ridge to match the channel and the ridge will dig deeper into the channel. It's what happens when things are improperly maintained. Replace both your rotor and pads and fix it correctly.

in most cases, definitely what happened and fix is good plan

 

[Tulsa76bronco]

Will be fixed before next year Dave I have a whole pile of parts waiting for more so I can start on fixing all these things specially that radiator don't want to see 270° again

 

[Tulsa76bronco]

Why would someone delete the steering stabilizer?

 

[DirtDonk]

Because:
1. They changed the linkage and could not figure out how to re-mount it.
2. They did not like the look.
3. They tossed out an old worn out one and never got around to replacing it.
4. They got lazy (see post #3)
5. They thought it was in the way of other modifications.
6. Any other reasons I probably could not think of.

I never replaced mine after adding a Con-Fer skid plate that changed the mounting points and made it very awkward to utilize a stabilizer shock. Some members here have been running without one for forty years!
They are not something that is necessary for the safe and stable use of your Bronco under most conditions. They are not there to reduce wobbling from other worn out or defective components. They are not there to stiffen up the steering to keep drivers from over-compensating. Although they can sometimes help with those and other issues, along with those issues they are there primarily to keep your thumbs attached to your hands!
Well, not really, but that's also a side benefit!
The stabilizer reduces shock loads from tire impacts from being imparted directly into the expensive steering gearbox and the aforementioned thumbs when you hit something with your tire and the manual gear box turns to full lock in an instant without enough time to let go of the wheel.
It was once thought that power steering would not have this problem, but that was not the case. It might be less severe than with manual steering, but a heavy input from a tire will still make it's way to the steering wheel.

Since they are on many different types of vehicles they are probably more of an "all of the above" accessory when it comes to the steering system.
They won't even slow down a real death-wobble, but they do help reduce tank-slappers on motorcycles. And that's a good thing!

Paul

 

[Madgyver]

Why would someone delete the steering stabilizer?

Not needed if steering geometry is set up good.