8 short questions I have before doing a JB Fab J twin stick mod

[skrit]

For the amount of people that have done this mod, I can't beleive there is not a tech article/instructions in the FAQ's on how to do this %) . This is what happened to me when I did my hydroboost mod and kept running into problems. The info is scattered all over the place and it takes so long to find exactly what you need. With that said, here are my questions:

Is there a way to install a JB Fab J twin stick using the stock tunnel hole? If not is there a cutting pattern?
Does the stock J bezel work with the boot that comes with it? If not where do I get one or how do I make one?
What Dremel attachments do I need to cut off the stock flags?
If I have a open D44 front with locking hubs and an open rear, what is the best shift configuration for snow/ice?
What is the best shift configuration for fuel economy / highway driving?
Is it bad to lock up the front hubs and drive in front 2WD HI only?

Thanks

 

[bamabroncos]

I can't answer all the questions, since may Twin Stick is waiting to be installed, but I can attempt to answer a couple.

I am sure my JB Fab stick came with a Bezel. But it's been over a year since I got it.

Driving on snow and ice I would stick it in 4-wheel high. But I live in Alabama so driving on snow and ice isn't very frequent, maybe once a year.

Economy would be to unlock the hubs and run it in 2-wheel high.

I don't think it's bad to lock the hubs and drive in 2WD. Some trucks came from the factory without locking hubs. But it will add extra wear and tear on the front drive train, but I believe it's a good idea to run with the hubs locked in every now and then to keep the front lubricated. Also since it adds a little drag with the front locked in mileage would be worse. Although if your looking for mileage then a EB is not the best choice.

 

[TJK74]

there is no pattern for the hole cutting
you use the stock hole but it needs to be opened up 1/2"-3/4" both to the left and to the rear for a 2" BL little bit less is no BL is used.
For the dremel you would use a fiber re inforced cut off wheel.
the stock j-Bezel will not work. I'm not sure if he has a bezel now but when i got mine way back when there was no bezel offered so i made my own out of some sheet metal

 

[Skiddy]

For the amount of people that have done this mod, I can't beleive there is not a tech article/instructions in the FAQ's on how to do this %) . This is what happened to me when I did my hydroboost mod and kept running into problems. The info is scattered all over the place and it takes so long to find exactly what you need. With that said, here are my questions:

Is there a way to install a JB Fab J twin stick using the stock tunnel hole? If not is there a cutting pattern?
Does the stock J bezel work with the boot that comes with it? If not where do I get one or how do I make one?
What Dremel attachments do I need to cut off the stock flags?
If I have a open D44 front with locking hubs and an open rear, what is the best shift configuration for snow/ice?
What is the best shift configuration for fuel economy / highway driving?
Is it bad to lock up the front hubs and drive in front 2WD HI only?

Thanks

I'll try to answer a few
#1 don't think there is a pattern but you don't have to cut out much
#2 stock boot will not work and you can buy the boots from jb fab or toms/w bezel
#3 thin cut off wheel
#4 just run it in 4x4 hi or lo depends on how fast you are going
#5 standard rear 2wd hi
#6 doesn't hurt it a bit but you may loose a little mpg's
hope that helps

 

[76 bronco J]

---there's no way to work through the stock hole even to just unbolt the stock shifter assembly,,, there needs to be a access point for maintenance from the side even without twinsticks which ford neglected to put,,, to cut as little as possible without going all the way from the side to the top of the hump make the access first then keep installing & uninstalling while trimming till' everything just barely clears, this keeps the hump area a little stiffer by keeping material where the top & side meet,,, as far as cuttting the flags I did it with a 3" cutoff wheel while out of the truck ,but plenty have done while in place,,,, a dremel will probably work with a few broken discs ,but may also be easier to work with through the access hole

 

[TJK74]

Mine has a 1-1/4" hole in the side of the tunnel that came from the factor which allos you to us a socket and extension to remove the stock shift. It would be located under the carpet.
Using a dremel I was able to reach through the stock hole and cut the flags then cut the left side of the tunnel a bit to clear the shifter then installed the new shifter and notched out what was needed at the back to clear the sticks to keep the hole as small as possible.

 

[meckanik]

...Is there a way to install a JB Fab J twin stick using the stock tunnel hole? If not is there a cutting pattern?

You can use the boot retaining plate to mark where to cut the tunnel.

Does the stock J bezel work with the boot that comes with it? If not where do I get one or how do I make one?

It does come with a bezel.

What Dremel attachments do I need to cut off the stockflags?

I assume you're talking about the tabs on the shift rails? This one was a little tough for me. I was able to get my Dremel flex-shaft into the hole but I could only cut at an angle. Not only that but I cut the tabs off-center so there was not enough material to engage the right shifter. I couldn't get my sawsall to cut the tabs at all unless notched first by the Dremel so I ended up just pulling the transfer case for a rebuild and to repair the botched cut.

If I have a open D44 front with locking hubs and an open rear, what is the best shift configuration for snow/ice?

You want both axles engaged and chains on the front if you only have one set.

What is the best shift configuration for fuel economy / highway driving? Is it bad to lock up the front hubs and drive in front 2WD HI only?

The rear axle is stronger and will take the wear and tear of driving (the wheels) better. If you're thinking 'front wheel drive" in the Bronc because FWD cars get good gas mileage (taking a guess at your reasoning here) it's not gonna happen. FWD cars' transaxle configuration allows a more efficient path for the power to reach the wheels; a Bronco with the front axle only engaged does not compare.

Thanks

Hopefully some of this was helpful.

-Jeff

 

[76 bronco J]

Mine has a 1-1/4" hole in the side of the tunnel that came from the factor which allos you to us a socket and extension to remove the stock shift. It would be located under the carpet.
Using a dremel I was able to reach through the stock hole and cut the flags then cut the left side of the tunnel a bit to clear the shifter then installed the new shifter and notched out what was needed at the back to clear the sticks to keep the hole as small as possible.

---that's nice your had a factory access hole,,, I'm wondering why my current 76' explorer & my last 75' ranger did not have this 1 1/4" access hole your talking about,,,, ??? for all --who's bronco has this factory access hole?

 

[bamabroncos]

My 74 doesn't have this access hole. I need to check my 76 and 73...

 

[trailpsycho]

I am guessing that hole was a PO addition. Mine and all other Broncos I have ever seen did not have the hole.

In my case I had put in a floor shifter, so already had room to access the flags and shifter. If you study the photos and take some "reference measurements" from some of the other folks here, maybe get some close up photos, you can precut your access hole, which will give you enough room to uninstall the J-shifter, cut the flags and install your twins. I was very upset the first time I had to cut my floor, I am over it. Just take your time. Make some templates. Also, you can pretty much remove teh J-shifter from under the vehicle...so dont fret, once you get under there and realize how easy it is, you will sail. If you have specific Qs, come back and someone will be there to fill you in. Best.

 

[Cooter_76]

---there's no way to work through the stock hole even to just unbolt the stock shifter assembly

I was able to remove the stock j-shifter without modifying the floor. I was bound & determined to install the twin-stick without cutting an access hole, but couldn't make it happen. I agree there should've been some sort of access panel from the factory.

 

[DU 001]

J Stick

I just cut as much of the tunnel as I thought necessary and had JB Custom extend their Diamond Plate tunnel covers to fit the entire side of the tunnel. I then had him make another cover for the passenger side (i.e. reverse process).

His standard covers are about 5" short and don't go all the way to where the firewall and tunnel meet. However, he had plenty of Broncos on site to work with and the finished product came out perfect. Ask Jon about it if you have any questions, I'm sure he remembers making them for me.

By using a tunnel cover, it doesn't matter how large a hole you cut and makes access a breeze.

Also, I used an Angle Grinder to cut the shift rails - worked great.

Regards,

DU 001

 

[Goin Off Bronco]

JB can and will make a custom Twin Stick for you to fit into the stock Hole from the J shifter. You must supply Jon the correct measurments he will need and then he will custom fab. He is making one for me currently this way and it should hit the hole well. i even have an AODE that sets it back an extra inch....

 

[Goin Off Bronco]

By the way for the flags. They are hardened, so a dremel will most likly not work. Go with a cut off wheel.

 

[trailpsycho]

I used a dremel without incident...although it took a couple of wheels, but I think only two...cutting the floor, now that took quite a few. A die-grinder and cut-off wheel will be faster, but it will also leave a larger gap between your flags...I would try to keep this gap as tight as possible...so a dremel is a great choice for it, just take your time. Good luck.

 

[ken75ranger]

I did mine without cutting an access hole. I have a 1 inch body lift but you could do the same by lowering the tranfercase a bit. It took awhile with a combination of wrenchs and sockets with u-joints. For cutting the flags I used a 4 inch angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I came up from the bottom. I had to remove the shroud from the grinder and use a warn disc (about 3 inches). Once I setup the grinder I really couldn't see what I was doing but it fit pretty tight so I couldn't go far off. It wasn't the easist way but I didn't want to cut an access hole.
As far as how much bigger to make the hole. Same angle grinder. Just keep trying to shift it until it goes in gear and add another 1/4 inch for clearence.