Aero fuel tank

[bronkenn]

I just ordered the Aero EFI tank after reading about them on here. I had another brand ordered from a vender but was backordered with no idea how long it would be. I ordered it with mounting brackets loose so I can mount it as high as possible and with no paint so I can paint myself with a better paint. Was wondering if anyone has any other recommendations on these tanks. Thanks, Ken

 

[JSmall]

The install was straightforward. I ordered mine with loose mounts, EFI bracket and a few inches shorter than their 23-gallon option. I think it is 18-20 gallon. I recessed the pump, added the roll-over valve and built my own skid. No complaints

 

[904Bronco]

The install was straightforward. I ordered mine with loose mounts, EFI bracket and a few inches shorter than their 23-gallon option. I think it is 18-20 gallon. I recessed the pump, added the roll-over valve and built my own skid. No complaints

Ken,

I have installed about 5 of these tanks. Very pleased with the tanks themselves and the service from Jake at Aero. On my 77 I ordered the brackets loose and welded them on so I could use the existing nutserted holes in the frame.
I added a flat board to my floor jack to raise the tank up, I used wood shims taped the to sides of the tank to center it in the confines of the Frame. Then I tacked the brackets in place.
On pre-welded brackets from Aero, every Bronco is different, a couple needed shims, one or two bolted straight up. Be sure to clean the tank out inside... By this I mean sometimes there has been left over slag rolling around inside. Shop vac will get it.
Take the time to get the sending unit properly adjusted, there is a procedure to follow. You attach a rod with the float to the unit and you will have to shorten the rod. When that part is done and the sending unit is screwed to the tank (Before gluing gasket) attach jumper wires to the tank sender and the wires for the tank in the bronco harness. They tell you to roll the tank in order to test the sender operation inside the tank.
It is not a pretty tank, but rugged. Jake says a number of the bronco guys running the Hammers have provided real life testing for their tanks.

 

[ransil]

The install was straightforward. I ordered mine with loose mounts, EFI bracket and a few inches shorter than their 23-gallon option. I think it is 18-20 gallon. I recessed the pump, added the roll-over valve and built my own skid. No complaints

This is the way they should come from AERO IMO, both sender and fuel pump recessed in any configuration of the tank.
mine was reduced capacity so I could mount it up high as possible and with the fuel pump assy sticking up you loose 3 or 4 inches.

 

[bronkenn]

I like the idea of recessing the sending unit and pump. I asked Jake about it and he said they don't recess the pump because the vent is on top and you wont gain any more clearance. I asked him about putting the vent down is the recess where the pump would be. He said they couldn't do it, I would like it the way that JSmall has it. Thanks for the input, Ken

 

[904Bronco]

I like the idea of recessing the sending unit and pump. I asked Jake about it and he said they don't recess the pump because the vent is on top and you wont gain any more clearance. I asked him about putting the vent down is the recess where the pump would be. He said they couldn't do it, I would like it the way that JSmall has it. Thanks for the input, Ken

That does not look like the rollover valve Aero provides?

Maybe it is something else... Maybe JSmall can comment

I cannot post pictures now or I would give an example of what it looks like.

 

[JSmall]

This is the way they should come from AERO IMO, both sender and fuel pump recessed in any configuration of the tank.
mine was reduced capacity so I could mount it up high as possible and with the fuel pump assy sticking up you loose 3 or 4 inches.

That was my thought. I ordered reduced capacity so I didn't want to lose that due to the pump sticking up so high.

That does not look like the rollover valve Aero provides?

Maybe it is something else... Maybe JSmall can comment

I cannot post pictures now or I would give an example of what it looks like.

When I got my tank from the last group buy it did not include the rollover valve. I asked about it and was told they didn't offer it anymore. I sourced a bung and valve from Summit.

 

[DirtDonk]

Just for the record, a "vent" is best positioned as close to the top of the tank as possible. If not at the very top, then at least at a point where very little volume is left above the vent.
Otherwise it's not really venting as efficiently, and is more subject to liquid intrusion.

It's not like you have to keep every last bit of vapor out of the top of a tank of course. Not sure you can even accomplish that. But allowing too much air volume above the vent, and the vent opening closer to the liquid level (especially without roll-over backflow valve) is probably not part of the design specification for that type of component.

Just guessing again at all that. But it makes sense rolling around in my head anyway. Maybe someone with tank-design in their resumé would care to chime in?

Paul

 

[ntsqd]

One reason for not having the fill vent at the very top of the tank is to allow for expansion of the fuel as it heats up during the day. If the fill vent is right at the top then the tank will fill to completely full and any thermal expansion of the fuel with a full to nearly full tank will push all of the volume change up the vent & filler tubes/hoses. With an air gap at the top of the tank it can expand there too and not solely go up the vent & fill tubes/hoses to leak past the cap and dribble down the 1/4 panel. The filling the nozzle will shut off when the fuel backs up the vent and fill tubes/hoses, leaving that air gap at the top of the fuel.

This all assumes that there is a "check valve-like" function to the service vent. That may be simply that it can't flow enough air during filling to be of any concern, or it could be that some vents or charcoal canisters do not allow outflow but do allow inflow with the cap regulating any build up in pressure.

 

[Joe473]

Just for the record, a "vent" is best positioned as close to the top of the tank as possible. If not at the very top, then at least at a point where very little volume is left above the vent.
Otherwise it's not really venting as efficiently, and is more subject to liquid intrusion.

It's not like you have to keep every last bit of vapor out of the top of a tank of course. Not sure you can even accomplish that. But allowing too much air volume above the vent, and the vent opening closer to the liquid level (especially without roll-over backflow valve) is probably not part of the design specification for that type of component.

Just guessing again at all that. But it makes sense rolling around in my head anyway. Maybe someone with tank-design in their resumé would care to chime in?

Paul

A couple of different items here. Look up the mass buy thread some of this was discussed and I think in a recent post I summed up some advice if anyone wants to do another mass buy.

On the vents. There is a fill vent 5/8". This was included and is there to help with filling tank. If you plug it or the hose going up is kinked the pump will kick off when filling even if the tank is empty. I have never seen a rollover valve there. The small 3/16 vent line to charcoal cannister wasn't there until the vapor cannister appeared in 69 or 70 I guess. Most guys remove this. That was the comment back from aero that the emissions stuff was never hooked up anyway and not necessary. On mine i wanted it hooked up and searched out solutions for the guys that did the buy. A few choices if you want a rollover valve on the tank vent Summit. Tanksinc.com and the delorean surplus one posted in other threads. I'm not sure about 76 or 77 but early model tanks had no rollover valve on the vent. Not sure other vendors do.

Also don't forget you need a return. If you keep the vapor recovery system functional the vapor tank had a return line for condensed liquid. On my tank I had the efi pickup assembly so I had a seprate return and used this for the return. For my vent above I put a 5/8x5/8 x 3/8" t on the fill vent which keeps it above fuel level if you overfill. If I ever do EFI I will need to modify the vapor recovery and return system.

Look at Tanksinc.com for some cool accessories and ideas. I like the float less fuel sender if I ever do this again.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure about '76 for sure, but '77's did come with a frame-mounted anti-rollover valve in the single vapor vent line from the tank(s) to the charcoal canister.
Mounted to the outside of the passenger frame rail in front of the rear spring hanger.

None of the other manufacturers that I know of include one, other than Aero.
A simple elbow or fitting on the side of the tank is what most use. But the lower the fitting/elbow is in the tank, the more likely that liquid can make it to the canister.
In the early models ('70.5 through early '76) the condensing tank behind the driver's shoulder would have taken care of that.

Safety laws dictated that the fuel containers be removed from the cabin, but the new, much higher mounting location of the canister after that eliminated the need for the condensing tank.

Paul

 

[Tiko433]

One reason for not having the fill vent at the very top of the tank is to allow for expansion of the fuel as it heats up during the day. If the fill vent is right at the top then the tank will fill to completely full and any thermal expansion of the fuel with a full to nearly full tank will push all of the volume change up the vent & filler tubes/hoses. With an air gap at the top of the tank it can expand there too and not solely go up the vent & fill tubes/hoses to leak past the cap and dribble down the 1/4 panel. The filling the nozzle will shut off when the fuel backs up the vent and fill tubes/hoses, leaving that air gap at the top of the fuel.

This all assumes that there is a "check valve-like" function to the service vent. That may be simply that it can't flow enough air during filling to be of any concern, or it could be that some vents or charcoal canisters do not allow outflow but do allow inflow with the cap regulating any build up in pressure.

This is what my tank does . It has the vent Areo provided installed on up but I didn’t install a hose. When I first got it I filled it as much as I could, it puked gas a lot of gas out. I just don’t fill it as much anymore. I thought about running a hose to fill tube. I have a Aux not connected to the system, I was going to use it transfer tank to my main for with a electric pump but I haven’t gotten around to it . Maybe I could run a vent hose back to the Aux that way any gas expansion would just go into Aux.

 

[EricLar80]

The install was straightforward. I ordered mine with loose mounts, EFI bracket and a few inches shorter than their 23-gallon option. I think it is 18-20 gallon. I recessed the pump, added the roll-over valve and built my own skid. No complaints

Sorry to derail the conversation, but how do you like the ORI struts? Do you have any more pictures of how you installed them? Are you running them in front as well? I assume full-width axles?

 

[JSmall]

Sorry to derail the conversation, but how do you like the ORI struts? Do you have any more pictures of how you installed them? Are you running them in front as well? I assume full-width axles?

I love them! I have full widths and 14” ORIs front and rear. You can look at my build thread or PM with any questions and pics you’re looking for.

 

[EricLar80]

I would like to put them in, but I don't think there is enough room with the stock axles to get the ORIs in with a tilt. I am trying to avoid full width because I am avoiding inevitable overbuilt axle bill that would come with them!

 

[callmemarsh]

Glad I found this thread. I am still on the quest to find the best option for my coyote build. Price is DEFINITELY a factor.

Anybody have luck converting this tank to EFI? I would assume just making it ventless and adding some AN bungs right?

 

[DirtDonk]

What do you mean "converting" callmemarsh? If don't already have a tank you simply order it set up for EFI and it's there. Pump module and all.
Or do you have a standard, non-EFI Aero tank already?
And what are the psi needs of a Coyote?

No need to make it ventless either. Every EFI tank in production uses a venting system for evaporative emissions control. Though I suppose it's not really required to function as an EFI tank, they're all that way. The only reason to plug the vents then would be if you were planning to run without an evaporative charcoal canister setup and run a fully vented gas cap.
Not the best plan though, if the vehicle is to be garaged. The family hates it when on hot days with a full tank the whole house smells like a gas tank.
You could get lucky of course, and not have much of an issue. Many do, but many more don't. So I would leave the canister in the master plan for the conversion.

The "fill-vent" has to stay of course, no matter what. Any evap venting is up to you.

Paul

 

[callmemarsh]

What do you mean "converting" callmemarsh? If don't already have a tank you simply order it set up for EFI and it's there. Pump module and all.
Or do you have a standard, non-EFI Aero tank already?
And what are the psi needs of a Coyote?

No need to make it ventless either. Every EFI tank in production uses a venting system for evaporative emissions control. Though I suppose it's not really required to function as an EFI tank, they're all that way. The only reason to plug the vents then would be if you were planning to run without an evaporative charcoal canister setup and run a fully vented gas cap.
Not the best plan though, if the vehicle is to be garaged. The family hates it when on hot days with a full tank the whole house smells like a gas tank.
You could get lucky of course, and not have much of an issue. Many do, but many more don't. So I would leave the canister in the master plan for the conversion.

The "fill-vent" has to stay of course, no matter what. Any evap venting is up to you.

Paul

Excuse my ignorance on fuel systems. This will be my first venture into EFI so bare with me lol.

I'm told the Coyote needs 55 psi constant. I didn't see an EFI option on the Aero website, but then again maybe I didn't look hard enough. I don't think the coyote requires anything special. Just a higher flow fuel pump and AN fittings for feed and return right?

 

[DirtDonk]

I believe that would be correct.
The standard EFI version of the tank is designed around a typical Ford (Mustang mostly?) pump, which in most forms is capable of 90-110 psi (depending on brand and model most likely) and enough volume for most modest needs.
The good news is that even if you needed more volume you can easily find the upgraded pumps in that category. They fit right up and wire the same.

I think 255 liters per hour is the typical aftermarket rating for the standard-duty pumps, which is a little more than a stock one? Unless you're running a really hot engine then, i don't think you'd need more.

Haven't looked at that on their site in awhile, so maybe it's not easy to find. But it's there somewhere. I don't actually remember if they do the A/N fittings or not. I'll have to look at mine, but our Sherman automatically comes outfitted with them, in case that becomes an issue with Aero (which it shouldn't, but wanted to throw a plug for our stuff anyway I could!%));D and you can't get it the way you want.
Bunch of us are running them with and without EFI out this way, so it can't be too big a deal.

And speaking of which... Whereabouts are you located?

Paul

 

[callmemarsh]

I believe that would be correct.
The standard EFI version of the tank is designed around a typical Ford (Mustang mostly?) pump, which in most forms is capable of 90-110 psi (depending on brand and model most likely) and enough volume for most modest needs.
The good news is that even if you needed more volume you can easily find the upgraded pumps in that category. They fit right up and wire the same.

I think 255 liters per hour is the typical aftermarket rating for the standard-duty pumps, which is a little more than a stock one? Unless you're running a really hot engine then, i don't think you'd need more.

Haven't looked at that on their site in awhile, so maybe it's not easy to find. But it's there somewhere. I don't actually remember if they do the A/N fittings or not. I'll have to look at mine, but our Sherman automatically comes outfitted with them, in case that becomes an issue with Aero (which it shouldn't, but wanted to throw a plug for our stuff anyway I could!%));D and you can't get it the way you want.
Bunch of us are running them with and without EFI out this way, so it can't be too big a deal.

And speaking of which... Whereabouts are you located?

Paul

I'm in Va Beach, Va. I just realized you rep WH. I put in an order with you guys a couple months ago for all of my suspension. I've actually talked to Jim briefly about the Sherman tank and it's a bit pricey. I need to save money where ever I can after the big hit from the suspension, axles and drivetrain!

I'll most likely run the stock F150 pump for cost savings at first. Planning on fabbing in an access door to make changing those components out easier if necessary. I'm reading about some issues with the sending units so I'll probably just bite the bullet and go with one of THESE.