Alternator ??? Internal vs External Regulator

[70_Steve]

Hey Guys. I've still got the stock 60A alternator and I need to replace my voltage regulator (flickering headlight symptom). I just saw Ryan's Mass Buy on the 3G or 4G wiring harness' . I'd been thinking for a while that, since I have to fix something (VR), I may as well make it better!

I've been looking at several different types of alternator upgrades. 1G, 3G, 4G, internal regulation, external regulation, etc. and have finally come to the realization that I just don't know enough about all these variations to be able to make an informed decision.

Right now, I've got a basically stock electrical system on my 70 EB. I might, at some time, install a winch, H4 headlight upgrade, and a couple extra lights.

I guess I'm looking for information on the difference between alternator types, and pros and cons on the internal vs external regulation thing.

Thanks as always...

 

[DirtDonk]

That's a tough one Steve. It's almost coming down to a personal preference these days. The outputs available as a stock replacement are higher for the 3G and 4G variety, but you can get a 1G up to about 105amps off the shelf and for some extra dough, up to over 200 amps. Same for the 3G's too though. Up to 130 amps over the counter, and 200+ through the aftermarket. Not sure of the aftermarket maximum, but they're all big outputs.
I THINK that the 3 and 4G's are still slightly more expensive when bought at a store, but that seems to be narrowing down a bit. I still see the old ones for about a buck an amp, and the 3G's anywhere from $150 to $200 if I remember.
From a junkyard all bets are off. I've heard of guys right here getting 3G's for $20.00 all the time. The Taurus seems to be a popular donor for lots of stuff like this.
Most written sources state that the large case, higher output 1G's are capable of higher ouputs at very low rpms (idle), but several reports here have some of the 3G's putting out big time at low rpms too.
The 3G is a higher output in a smaller package. I like the big 1G in my rigs, and I like having an easy to replace, inexpensive Votage Regulator that I can swap out quickly if it goes bad. And I carry a spare with me anyway.
But the 3G's have proven to be very reliable. Not like the bad rep that the early GM internals had. But even that was 30 years ago almost and they have a good reputation too now.

It seems to be easier to retain the stock ammeter with the old style unit in a 70 or even a 100 amp output, but generally, most everyone is eliminating the ammeter when going to the 3G's.

Like I said, all of mine have a large case 1G in place of the stock unit, but I'm hard pressed to find any reason not to try the internal type next time.
And I do love the simplicity.

Sorry to give you so much without really giving you a definitive point, but you see what's going on these days.

I'm sure you can do a search too and find all of that and a lot more written about it, so give that a shot too.

Paul

 

[Ryan]

I just sent Bronco Driver a 3G form a Taurus.
Cost was extremly cheap off a car being parted out.

I had it serviced and tested at a local aternator shop.

At idle it put out 98amps when spun faster it did a max of 152amps

The only reason to keep the extrenal regulator is because you already have that system and some people report that the cheap imported alts with internal regulators overheat and fail.
So be carefull of autozone specials

 

[4byford]

I thought just the 94-95 Mustang 3Gs were swap material...
The Taurus unit works and fits also?
ANy Taurus model years to look for?

Thanks!

 

[Ryan]

All of these Ford vehicles had the 130amp 3G like the pictures below:

(1994-95) Ford Mustang 5.0L
(1994-00) Ford Mustang 3.8L
(1994-97) Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar 3.8L
(1990-95) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.8L
(1993-99) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L
(1995-98) Ford Windstar 3.8L & 3.0L
(1991-94) Lincoln Continental 3.8L
(1992-97) Ford F Series Pickup
(1992-96) Ford E Series Van

Be carefull there was a 95amp 3G, it's ok, but not high-power
Most of the 130amp 3G's will crank out 140-160amps.
there are about 6 different mounting styles. 2 are good:

 

[Bucmaster]

One advantage to an external regulated alt is that if the reg goes out, you can unplug it and jumper across for FULL alt output. Might fry some bulbs and possibly the battery, but it might also get you out of a bind.
On the other hand, i'm looking at getting in on the harness mass buy and converting.

 

[kwspony]

I am using a 1G from an 87 Tempo. 100A. went right in, all I had to do was swap pullies and a simple re wire. I did loose the amp guage though. check out www.madelectrical.com they have some good reading on alts.

 

[4byford]

Wow.... (sound of new knowledge percolating into brain)

Thanks Ryan for the good info...

 

[DirtDonk]

Just to add to what Ryan said before, look at the units closely if you're pulling one in a junkyard. I just pulled the one from a girlfriends '95 Mustang w/3.8 V6 and it was the lower powered unit. I thought it said 100amps somewhere, but now I can't remember exactly if it was stamped or labeled.
Frankly, even 95amps is worlds above what you have stock on an old Bronco, so I guess it's still a good deal, but if 130 is the same cost as 95, well, you can do the math. BONUS! Lol.

Paul

 

[SaddleUp]

One more addition to what has already been posted. If you look carefully at the pics above you will see that the difference is in the spacing between the alt frame and the lower bolt hole. This amounts to about 1 inch of difference between the bolts on these two alternators. Check to be sure that having a little more distance between the bolt holes will not cause any problems if you use the Taurus model. (This most likely will only be an issue with some of the later model engine swaps but it will not hurt to double check in advance)

 

[Ryan]

 

[HotWheels]

ok. if u do change the alt to higher output we need to put a MegaFuse like the one that Chuck sells to avoid fring the harness, right??

 

[70_Steve]

ok. if u do change the alt to higher output we need to put a MegaFuse like the one that Chuck sells to avoid fring the harness, right??

Also, as a follow-up to HotWheels question... Any advantage/disadvantage to using a MegaFuse vs a circuit breaker, like Phoenix Gold or Buss sells?

 

[SaddleUp]

You need some kind of protection that covers the amperage of the alternator with a little extra since the 3G alternators repeortedly will put out more than the rated amperage. I chose a 175 amp MegaFuse which I picked up at Autozone for less than $10 however a circuit breaker should work as well as long as it is rated at 160 to 200 amps.