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Alternator Recommendations

BamaBlue'67

Full Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
336
So the current alternator is basically done. The bronco has cut off twice when put into reverse and I had to jump it off on Sunday. I bought a trickle charger and the battery was at 25% when I hooked it up.

I was previously having issues with the radio cutting in and out when coming to a stop while driving, so I assumed a new one and potential upgrade was in my future.

What are your suggestions on upgrading to higher AMP alternator, brands that you like or any trouble shooting issues I can avoid given your prior experiences with such...?

1973 302 with Vintage Air and a mild 4 speaker set up, new head unit, no amp.
 

Maddog B

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
88
Im running a Tuff Stuff 100amp 1 wire and I’m happy. Clean easy installation and charges well. If you go the 1 wire route just make sure you run a heavy gauge wire to the alternator.
 
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BamaBlue'67

BamaBlue'67

Full Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
336
Im running a Tuff Stuff 100amp 1 wire and I’m happy. Clean easy installation and charges well. If you go the 1 wire route just make sure you run a heavy gauge wire to the alternator.

Looking at these too. Looks like Jegs has several options. Where did you buy yours?
 

Maddog B

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
88
I bought mine through summt racing. The good thing about the 3g is you can go to any parts store and get one if you have an issue. I still like my 1 wire though.
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,918
WH sells a one wire 3G.

No matter what 3G you get be prepared for some belt squeak unless you can run the dual pulley, or serpentine.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
So the current alternator is basically done. The bronco has cut off twice when put into reverse and I had to jump it off on Sunday. I bought a trickle charger and the battery was at 25% when I hooked it up.

I was previously having issues with the radio cutting in and out when coming to a stop while driving, so I assumed a new one and potential upgrade was in my future.

What are your suggestions on upgrading to higher AMP alternator, brands that you like or any trouble shooting issues I can avoid given your prior experiences with such...?

1973 302 with Vintage Air and a mild 4 speaker set up, new head unit, no amp.

I don't understand this direction of thinking.
You've got an alternator that was rated at 45-65 amps. Now it might be worn out.
So right away you think a retrofitted 130 amp alternator is the answer.
Sure, maybe, if you're planning on pulling a hugh additional load. But most of the time a simple replacement would be better.
With a big replacement alternator, you're going to loose the use of your ammeter, and wil need to increase the size of the charging condiuctore.
All that may not be necessary at all.
 

brbuilder

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
163
If you run the 3G alternator with a dual groove pulley, how do you route the belts with a PS pump? Is there room for a 3-groove water pump and crank pulley?
 

Slednut10

Contributor
Guru? That's funny!
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
2,397
Here is a short list of stock Ford 3g alternator donors that many here have used sucessfully, myself included.

94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

(1994-95) Ford Mustang 5.0L
(1994-00) Ford Mustang 3.8L
(1994-97) Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar 3.8L
(1990-95) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.8L
(1993-99) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L
(1995-98) Ford Windstar 3.8L & 3.0L
(1991-94) Lincoln Continental 3.8L
(1992-97) Ford F Series Pickup
(1992-96) Ford E Series Van

I used this slightly larger pulley with good success. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Gro...:pXcAAOSwvg9XWB1C:sc:USPSPriority!03825!US!-1
 

bam

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
275
Loc.
Laurel, Ms
I don't understand this direction of thinking.
You've got an alternator that was rated at 45-65 amps. Now it might be worn out.
So right away you think a retrofitted 130 amp alternator is the answer.
Sure, maybe, if you're planning on pulling a hugh additional load. But most of the time a simple replacement would be better.
With a big replacement alternator, you're going to loose the use of your ammeter, and wil need to increase the size of the charging condiuctore.
All that may not be necessary at all.

...……..x2
 
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BamaBlue'67

BamaBlue'67

Full Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
336
I don't understand this direction of thinking.
You've got an alternator that was rated at 45-65 amps. Now it might be worn out.
So right away you think a retrofitted 130 amp alternator is the answer.
Sure, maybe, if you're planning on pulling a hugh additional load. But most of the time a simple replacement would be better.
With a big replacement alternator, you're going to loose the use of your ammeter, and wil need to increase the size of the charging condiuctore.
All that may not be necessary at all.

And that is why I posed the question. To get answers, concerns, examples and suggestions. I am not running a winch or some elaborate light set up, but I was experiencing issues at low power periods. Thanks for your opinion and concerns. Noted
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,236
If you run the 3G alternator with a dual groove pulley, how do you route the belts with a PS pump? Is there room for a 3-groove water pump and crank pulley?

You can retain the dual groove pulleys and run a longer belt from the power steering, over the crank and water pump, but extended out to encompass the outer groove of the alternator.
Works fine for several members here that way and does not see to compromise the "traction" that the power steering pump needs.

Paul
 

sanndmann3

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
Messages
1,790
My own personal opinion is when something breaks or needs to be replaced, its an opportunity to upgrade. some times it makes sense sometimes its for future proofing (possibly).
Your experience or priorities may vary... :)
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,236
Hey Bama, welcome to the club!
First of all though, before throwing a new alternator at it (not a bad thing, but not the only solution always either) check a few things off the list and also ask yourself a few questions.

First, is the wiring in good condition? Could the alternator be fine in other words, and something be wrong with some other component like the voltage regulator, or the wiring.

That's the mechanical part. The "what do I want or need" part is harder.
Are you looking to keep things mostly stock? Whether stock-looking only, or stock in function? If so, a higher output stock style 1G alternator might just be fine for you. No wiring modifications at all, so keeps the stock look.
Does not perform as well at idle as the other models that are upgrades over stock, such as a large case 1G or either of the 3G units would do. But even a high-end stock one would still have plenty of total output for you most of the time.
A typical cheap rebuild would be available up to 65 amps. More expensive modded ones are probably available up to 100a or more, but remember as a rule of thumb that anything above 70 amps and you're looking at modifying at least some of the wires anyway.

Any modern alternator, whether a 1-wire or standard, is going to be "internally regulated" so you don't need your old voltage regulator and would normally remove it. So while easy to install, that's still a case of modifying the wiring slightly. Not a big deal unless you think wires are a bundle of snakes best avoided!
This is when you start to lose the stock look, but get into cleaner wiring under the hood. Any 3G (either 90a or 130a rated) will require an up-sized charge cable.

For brands, luckily we don't seem to have the same trouble with alternators as we do with lesser parts such as the starter relays, but I believe I've heard members with bad experiences with the Autozone brands, so it might be worth staying away from them until you hear otherwise.
Either way, you probably know that we have more trouble as the prices go down, and less trouble when you pay more. Not universal, but universally accepted as a general rule of thumb. Don't cheap out...;);D

Lots of us have had good luck with Tuff-Stuff stuff.

It's all basic stuff regarding what style to choose. They all keep the battery charged and the electrons coursing, but some are simpler installs than others, and the more powerful ones can handle more add-ons without complaining.
Nice to have some extra headroom sometimes. But as you noted, it's not 100% necessary either. Not for most of us anyway.

I've got big alts on all my stuff, from 70a to 110a to 130a, but I figure it's justified every day just because I wanted them and sometimes need them. Not because I need them every day.

Good luck!

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,236
Future-proofing is a good way to go for lots of things. Including alternators if you think you mightmaybepossiblysomeday add EFI or something like that.

Good way to look at it.

Paul
 
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BamaBlue'67

BamaBlue'67

Full Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
336
Very good advice.

I have updated the voltage regulator. That was my first stop in the process before having the issues of engine cut-off when in reverse and later having to jump off the battery. The battery was down to 25% power according to the recently purchased trickle charger.

I will probably go with a 100 amp alternator because EFI is something worth considering given the options that are out there these days.

Thanks!!
 

Smedley

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2004
Messages
928
Loc.
Snohomish
Tuff Stuff 100amp one wire (part number 7068). Got it off Amazon for $87. Super easy install.
 
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