Alterstart alternator help

[HotWheels]

I only mention all this because I have seen others blow up their MSD, data loggers, and stereos using the older style Delco one wire alternators. So even if you don't take me up on my offer, find one from someone else that has avalanche diodes. All electronics have built in protection, but that is not designed for the abuse your style alternator will put it through. Your diodes will allow a 200volt spike past them, where as with the avalanche it is only 32 volts.

This is interesting. I will check with alterstat on this. If what you say is so then I will need another alt. PM me with details.

thanx for the info,

 

[HotWheels]

Well I talked to "Bill". Very nice guy. He says it is a 1-wire alternator that puts out 100 amps @ 1800 rpm. Since I have no winch or stereo amp, etc. I thought it was appropriate for my usage.

Bill also said that should a regulator fail and we start seeing "over voltage" 15+ volts that it would be wise to not run the vehicle. He provides a lifetime guarantee on his products.

I was turned on to him by many others of our fine board and I've never heard anything bad about his outfit. He also has 4345 positive feedbacks on Ebay.

I'm happy with the product, service and support so far.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

I don't recall saying anything bad about him in my email either. You seem offended by my email for some reason. It was not my intention, I do apologize.
As for over voltage, he is correct. It actually has a lot to do with what type of battery you have.
Low Antimony Plates: You should never charge them at over 14.2 or you will damage them. These are your built for a price type batteries, the really cheap ones.
Hybird Batteries: Should never be charged at over 14.4 . These batteries have one low antimony plate and one calcium plate. Many companies market them as calcium batteries, but they are not. These are medium line type batteries, like Exide and Interstate. These are good examples of how marketing has gone bad in this world. Companies seem to be more and more willing to enter gray areas, or just outright tell you what ever they need to, just to make the sale.
Calcium/calcium Batteries: Have both + and - calcium plates. Delphi and East Penn are the only two major companies that I know of that manufacture them. There could be more though. These batteries will survive up to about a 15.2 volt charge rate, though they prefer in the 14.7 to 14.9 range.

So if you bought a cheap battery and you own a Ford or GM product, you are always over charging it. But if the regulator did fail the alternator could go in to a full field situation. Which would cause your system voltage to climb rapidly with the rpm of the alternator. Which in turn would fry anything and everything in your car.
As for the warranty periods on the batteries. It is almost zero indication of what you are buying. It is a fact in the automotive industry that if the consumer is buying parts strickly based on price, that in 75% of the cases they will not own their vehicle in 1 year. This is why you see big box stores offering such long warranty periods, as they know the chance of you ever using it are really slim.
Optima is a good example of how companies do things now a days. Their batteries were strickly designed and marketed to the car stereo crowd at first. They come with a three year warranty. Then when you read the fine print, their warranty is void if used in a stereo car. Huhhhhhh?

Also as i said in the email, what does it matter what an alternator puts out after idle? Do you turn anything else on once you come off idle. MSD and electric fuel pumps pull a few extra amps, but that is about it, unless you have NOS. You should always buy an alternator based on its at idle amperage. If it has you covered there, it will have you covered every where else in the rpm band as well, as yours does.