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Another Brake question--Should I get disk rear brakes?

pclancy

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2014
Messages
54
Loc.
Washington DC
I'm still a newbie here (and not mechanically inclined), so forgive my ignorance. But the wisdom of the forum would be appreciated.

I have a 1969 with a 302 and power front disk brakes. The rear brakes are drum.

Although the Bronco seems to brake OK in normal situations, I fear its ability to stop well and straight in an emergency. Thus the question becomes one of whether I should upgrade and put disks all around. I occasionally drive the Bronco on interstates.

Views? Pro and con?

And if you agree that this is a good way to spend money then does anyone have suggestions on which rear disk brake package is the best?

WH has rear disk kits with new axles and one w/o. Should I spring for the beefed up axles?

Any other advice?

Thanks for your help!
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,917
BC rear disc....but the WH kit is top notch stuff too.
BC is just a little cheaper. Well,....you can buy it in stages to make it cheaper.
Anyway....
Most guys here will tell you that rear disc are not necessary and they are likely correct.
Considering your lack of mechanical acumen rear disc might be good for you since repairs and maintenance in the future will be much easier....then again now that you are here you have the knowledge of hundreds of us at your side on your smart phone. Soon you will feel like you can do anything to your eb. So maybe you should just wait on the rear disc.
Fact is it should stop very well with your current system so we may need to loom further into it.....
 
Last edited:

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,865
Loc.
Stockton, CA
Keep the rear drums and upgrade the front to discs. Once you have them working correctly, if you want to go further still, add a hydroboost system. Should brake like a modern truck at that point.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,441
bronconut is right on the money and steers you straight regarding some pros and cons.

The biggest concern I think you mention is some possible funky motions during emergency braking. Unfortunately, as good as the drums can be, unless their automatic adjusters continue (or even start!) to function properly, your concerns are valid. Discs are much more consistent with their self-adjusting characteristics.
But if your truck is modest in it's build, not running huge tires, the drums stay adjusted relatively well, and you know what you're doing behind the wheel, it's not that bad.

That issue with drums is the potentially uneven braking if they're not adjusted properly. This was never an issue for me, because I was literally under my truck every other week making sure that all four drums were perfectly adjusted at all times.
Most people are not going to get that involved with their rigs though, so that might help with your decision if yours work or not.
Luckily here though, your rear brakes don't have near the effect that your fronts do, so even if they get a little out of sorts, it's much more controllable than if your fronts were not in perfect shape. With the front discs though, this should never be an issue unless they were installed incorrectly or you let them wear down to far or something like that.

How long have you had yours? Sounds familiar though, like from last night's discussions. Is this one that you just brought home? Or have you had it awhile?
If new to you, maybe check some characteristics, drive it awhile, and see what you think about how it feels.
From a purely maintenance standpoint, the discs have it all over the drums. Period.
Drums are reasonably powerful when in good shape, basic, last a long time and are self-energizing to an extent, which gives them some power. But drums have more little pieces to mess with during routine maintenance, and as mentioned, can become misadjusted easily if everything isn't working just perfectly.
That along with the wet performance is why I'm changing to discs in the rear. I waited until I had to replace the drums too however, as I didn't feel any emergency need and don't like to waste perfectly good parts unless I have to.

For swapping, price-wise you might still be ahead if you go for the inexpensive kit and upgrade your axle shafts separately. But remember too, upgrading axle shafts to include the 31 spline option means you need to change out the differential carrier, or at least it's side gears. All EB's were 28 spline from the factory.

Unfortunately for me (price-wise that is) I opted to go for the kit with axles included because I've had such good luck with the parking brake style used in this kit, thought it was a good balance size-wise and I like the axles.
It's got an internal drum brake that rides inside the rotor hat. With all the varied positive and negative feedback on various parking brake types (including stock drums I might add), this one got my vote. Even at more than twice the price.

So, pros of drums?
Leave it alone and it doesn't cost you a thing.
Enough power for most EB's until you get to much larger tires.
Service cost is pretty close to the same for standard replacement of shoes vs disc pads for the do-it-yourselfer. Usually a bit less than discs when having some shop do the work for you. But it really could go either way depending on what parts need to be replaced. The drums themselves aren't exactly cheap, but don't need replacing very often either. A resurface is about the same cost for drum vs disc around here.

Cons?
When maintenance is needed it's a bit more fiddly, but we've been doing it for a hundred years so it's nothing new.
Crappy when wet.
Crappy when hot, but this depends a lot on materials and is not an apples-to-apples comparison between drums and discs.
Inconsistent unless adjustments are kept after and near perfect.

Pros of discs?
Equal or better stopping power.
Much better consistency.
Much better performance when hot or wet. Especially wet!
Much easier service/maintenance if no resurfacing needed. Hands down!
Replacement costs similar for similar wear.
Looks cool.

Probably lots of stuff I'm overlooking, but that's just some additional thoughts from the Farside... As said, I'm going the disc route myself, but that doesn't mean it's hands-down the way to go for everyone.

Good luck on the decision.

Paul
 
OP
OP
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pclancy

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2014
Messages
54
Loc.
Washington DC
Thanks for the fantastic advice, folks. This forum is incredible...thanks to you. Think I will stay with the front discs and rear drums for the moment.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,429
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I bought mine with hydra-boost and 4 wheel discs already installed. Front is GM caliper, rear is the Explorer conversion. The brakes are fantastic! Well they were until the front calipers seized due to the use of DOT 5 silicone fluid, but they soon will be again. With DOT 4 in the system.

Preface my comments with two things; I've put ~130,000 miles on a 33" tired disc/drum yota 4x4 truck, and I spent 2 years working for wilwood in their R&D design dept.

In those 130k miles I've replaced the rear shoes once. I think. Can't recall when that was. Right now I need to manually adjust them. Need to do this about once a year or it starts diving one direction or the other under moderate to hard braking.

In that time at wilwood I realized that caliper based p-brakes that work and continue to work are not common. If you dig into the tech articles here you'll find one on making the GM calipers with a p-brake work. The author has since given up on them and gone to an Explorer system. Which is just as well because the GM caliper pistons are too big for good brake system balance in these trucks. Some guys have achieved good system balance with them, but to a one, that I know of, they're done it by really dialing down rear system pressure with an adjustable proportioning valve. Which, while it works, is not really the most ideal way to achieve this. Much better is to start with a caliper that has a smaller bore and get closer to a balanced system without the p-valve, then add the p-valve to fine tune only.
 

R.P. Coltrane

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
147
Loc.
Iowa, the flat part
Since you're not putting tons of miles on the truck, consider a more aggressive front pad set than the average street vehicle uses. Yeah, they'll wear out in 30K, but if it saves you a thousand dollar brake upgrade, money well spent. Call a couple performance brake companies to see what's out there.

At a bare minimum you should be using carbon metallics, and those are widely available in parts stores.

Good luck!
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
I'm still a newbie here (and not mechanically inclined), so forgive my ignorance. But the wisdom of the forum would be appreciated.

I have a 1969 with a 302 and power front disk brakes. The rear brakes are drum.

Although the Bronco seems to brake OK in normal situations, I fear its ability to stop well and straight in an emergency. Thus the question becomes one of whether I should upgrade and put disks all around. I occasionally drive the Bronco on interstates.

Views? Pro and con?

And if you agree that this is a good way to spend money then does anyone have suggestions on which rear disk brake package is the best?

WH has rear disk kits with new axles and one w/o. Should I spring for the beefed up axles?

Any other advice?

Thanks for your help!

Whats happening during braking now that leads you to fear its abilitity to stop straight? While broncos are short wheel based and can have issues during hard braking if the brake system is working properly it should stop relatively straight. So you really have to figure out what is going on? If one or both rear brakes are locking up and the bronco is trying to swap ends then you need to find out why as thats not normal. brake issue? tire issue?
The rear brakes usually only account for around 20% of overall braking so swapping to rear discs is not always the answer.
Of course as was hit on brake pad material can make a differance. Im not totally sold on the carbon metallics. I actually get better stopping out of the old standard semi mettalics. The carbons seem to tend to need a bit more heat build up before they start working good. But then again there are lots of companies making this stuff and some just work better than others. But Just be carefull with some of these high dollar pads out there while they may stand up to there claims many times the claims are more skewed to high speed perfromance use rather than street use and that can make a differance.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,429
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Agreed, performance friction materials are nearly always designed with high(er) operating temperatures in mind. I've had great results using "Fleet Service" pads from CarQuest.

I'd also be careful about high perf pads in front with no change to the rear. Juggling pad materials is a brake system fine tuning method used in road race cars, so my concern is plausible. Assuming that you can find a pad with higher, low temp, friction than typical you've now altered the brake balance of the truck. Could lead to some unexpected behavior.
 

PaveBronco

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
912
Not mechanically inclined? Everyone learns by doing, grab a Haynes and Chilton’s manual and read them cover to cover. You’re already ahead of the game by joining this site; these folks have saved me time and money with all their info. Also you have direct lines to several outstanding vendors. So grab some tools, manual, maybe a beer, and take a look at your brakes..
 
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