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another caster ?

elipryor

New Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Messages
64
Loc.
Cherryville
Swung by the body shop and did a quick caster reading on my 74. I am only about 2 degrees positive. About 1 degree + camber on both sides. Toed in about 1/8".Before I took it to the body shop I had some terrible wandering issues. I know I have a couple other issues to fix when I get it back. The front end is about a 1.5" out of center. I have the adjustable track bar to get that lined out. And my ball joints are really stiff. Without rotating the knuckles around I am about out of options on gaining more caster. I guess my question is do you guys think the 2 degree + caster is my wandering issue or the other problems I listed.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Caster is the main issue. Tire pressures can also contribute. Probably the cheapest option for gaining back some caster is drop radius arm brackets. Many cry about losing ground clearance with them but you always have to give up something. And really with a tall lift and big tires your not really loseing much.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,288
Can you describe the wobble in more detail Eli? And what other things have been done to your Bronco?
Mine is a '71 with roughly the same caster reading as yours and is stable as a rock at any speed. No wandering or wobble.
Generally speaking though, wobble and wander are two different things, and many other things can cause wobble besides lack of caster. But a lack of caster PLUS just the right (wrong?) tire combination could cause some issues.
For a stock '74, your 2° is low, but still pretty close to the low end of the acceptable range.

Paul
 
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elipryor

New Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Messages
64
Loc.
Cherryville
I already have the 7 degree C bushings and the James Duff Radius arm drop brackets put on with the arms in the lowest position. I dont think there is much else I can do to gain caster without rotating the knuckles beside adjustable offset ball joints. I checked at O Reileys and the most offset they could get me was 1.25 degrees.
The bronco does not want to track straight. It will wander to one side of the road and then when you try to correct it, it seems to want to go to far the other way. Kind of like it does not really want to center back up.
Thanks
Eli
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
I'm not sure that the duff brackets are actually drop brackets as drop brackets usually drop the radius arms by about 4 in in the rear from there stock location.
 

75bronco08

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2008
Messages
234
Loc.
sublimity,oregon
from my exsperence balljoint that are stiff and starting to go bad will give you that over correction takes little more pressure to get it move and then when it does gone to far. i fought one, alingment shop said everthing fine. i got under their pulled tie rod assembly loose and could hardly move knuckle on one side.replace ball joint and all was fine i had 3.5 lift with 7 degree bushings on 77.
 

BroncoWanted

Full Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2009
Messages
556
Loc.
North Mississippi
According to Duff's website their drop brackets should give up to 4 degrees, combined with your 7 degree bushings this should have got you close to a good camber. If not you should check other areas. i.e. is you frame bent from jumping or rock climbing or are the upper spring buckets out of place.

I may be way off base but if you have already added 11 degrees positive and still just have 2 degrees showing something is fishy in denmark. Just my two cents.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,288
The last two posts are something to look at Eli. Stiff ball-joints need to be replaced anyway, so if that helps with the existing issue, so much the better.
I'm with BW too. Either your Bronco was even farther off than normal (not impossible) or you may have your C-bushings in backwards and they're fighting the drop brackets. That would help explain why you still only have 2° after all that correction has been installed.
At your point though too, adding the additional 1.25° of correction with the eccentric ball-joint collars would at least get you in the money from a "stock" standpoint anyway.

What are some other features of your Bronco? What mileage? What type, if any, power steering? What lift? Are you using a dropped pitman arm AND a dropped (or raised) trackbar bracket?
Steeper and/or uneven angles on your draglink and trackbar will also contribute to ill-handling.

Before you do anything else though, I would absolutely perform "the test" and have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth. About a half-turn in each direction is plenty usually.
While they doing this, you're laying under the front end and watching all the linkages from the steering input shaft to the wheel bearings. Anything that doesn't look quite right to you, probably isn't. And there is ZERO allowable visible side-to-side movement in the trackbar and it's brackets/mounts. Same with the steering box on the frame. If you see movement there, you will need to inspect for cracks in the frame. Also, ZERO visible play in the ball joints as well.
If your steering linkage "rotates" before it starts to move side-to-side, check to see that each rod-end and the draglink are aligned with each other. You should get a very minimal roatational movement during steering movement.
There are other things too, but you get the picture.

Try that and let us know what you find.

Paul
 

av bronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
1,742
Loc.
Palmdale CA
I was in the same boat, there is a way to get a couple of more degrees. How hi is the rear compared to the front? mine was about 1 inch higher so I pulled the heavy bottom rear spring out & is sits pretty level, not olny did this give me a degree or two but the weaght transfer made it a dream to drive on the freeway.
 
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elipryor

New Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Messages
64
Loc.
Cherryville
According to the measurments I took and gave to James Duff they said I had around 5.5" of lift. I have a drop pitman arm and a drop track bar bracket. Besides the upper and lower ball joints everything else in the front end is new. Could still not have something tight enough and getting some play though. Ill check this as soon as I get it back. Going to do new ball joints too.
I am a little confused why I don't have anymore caster than that also with the bushings and drop brackets. The rear is about 1 inch higher than the front but I was waiting until I got all of the interior in and top put on to tackle that.
 

av bronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Messages
1,742
Loc.
Palmdale CA
there are adjustable radius arms(duff bc)but 5.5 lift almost guaranteed you are going to have to rotate your knuckles, or your front pinion is going to be pointing down really bad.
 
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