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ANOTHER Engine Choice

rguest3

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Dec 13, 2012
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Those is a pretty good flowing head and intake combo.

Which Comp Cam are you going to install? RV Cam does not mean anything to me?????

What size injectors are you going to install?

My initial guess would be 325-350 HP and maybe 400ish pounds of torque. Are you gonna get it dynoed at some point?
 
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greatguy57078

greatguy57078

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All I know at this point is that it is a Comcams RV cam. I think that this is what was installed.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=883&sb=2

I can get whatever size ejectors that I decide to get I guess, so what size ejectors would you recommend? I am looking for a happy medium somewhere between fuel economy and performance.

That being said, it sounds like I made the right choice if your numbers are correct. I will have it dynoed at some point before the truck gets home.
 
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rguest3

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I have been very successful with Comp Cams on getting the Cam correct the first time with the application at the time. With that said, there are other Cams that are more "computer friendly" and will make the whole EFI experience more straight forward and an engine that really does not need tuning but just plug and play. The Cam you chose could have more Lobe Separation which an EFI system works better with. 112-114 would be best.

Contact Comp Cams and see what they suggest and get a Cam made for what you want to do. They can make the same cam for you with a higher lobe separation, for example. Their Custom Cams do not cost any more than their over the shelf cams. Also, get their complete "K-Kit" which includes all the valvetrain, so everything matches. All you will need are the correct valves. (1.94, 1.54)

#24 injectores should work pretty good. Call Chris at Pro-M Racing and get an Air Meter that is matched to the injectors and will actually do what it is supposed to do. Some other Air Meters are absolute JUNK.
 

matts460

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Feb 3, 2013
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Both motors apart on the ground use the 351w finish building how you want. Also making any motor a roller will have lots of gains!!!! Roller rockers alone have significant gains!!! ALso there are lots of benifts to alum heads even just with the weight savings alone plus there are so many differnt alum heads out there they all have differnt purposes. Have to have ones that are built for street use so they have power gains through the ENTIRE RPM range I dont know the exact specs of the ALum heads and intake you say you have for the windsor but if it was desighned for the Lightning youll be just fine im sure. All power made with any motor is all in the Heads! Never forget that. The cam is just the brain (with power gain too) to help put that power were you need it most in a givin rpm range. Need to read some good engine build up articals in the muscle car type mags as most builds are for the STREET not race so the motors have a nice brod power band. Same type of build would apply to offroad motor. Infact there is a great stock 91 mustang roller motor build up in an articall from Carcraft were simply bolting on AFR alum heads gave the motor 100hp gain with out screeming to the moon to do it! Made great power and torque from IDLE to 6000rpm with stock cam, thats like perfect. Google Carcraft 302 bulid up youl find it. Could be some good tips to help you deside what to build and how to do it. Applying all that to the 351w would make a great motor
 
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greatguy57078

greatguy57078

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What do you know about this Procomp brand product? Seems a fraction of the price of the same MSD stuff. Any input on that?%)
 

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KyleQ

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Truth to be told, the factory Ford stuff will last forever, the aftermarket stuff is questionable. I don't think there is anything wrong with the ford coil and TFI setup - the real reason for the aftermarket ignition stuff is really fold older stuff and applications where more spark is needed due to RPM extremes and boost.

The aftermarket stuff sure does look pretty on a built engine though :)

I was going to build a short deck 69' 351W but ended up going with a F4TE block, but I was looking stroker at the time as well (kinda a PITA with that short deck). This isn't going to be a RPM based motor, so in all reality the stamped rockers would be fine - again, roller rockers are great for eekig out more HP with RPM. This isn't a track motor, so it isn't a necessity.

That cam in that 351W will work with the Mustang EFI, so you are good there. I would suggest a Pro-M meter as well, they are the industry best when it comes to MAF's.


With those heads and intake paired to a 351W there is no way you won't make under 350HP - don't really worry about that, you are after torque and a stockish 351W is a VAST improvement, anything on top of that is going to be serious fun. I'll eventually get to actually compare that - if you take a peek at my half cab build thread I've got an even nastier motor than the 351W setup to go into that and its going to be overkill.

You have a great set of parts and a great idea - I would say run stock ignition components for RELIABILITY only, its easy to throw money at stuff, but before you can have fun, its got to start every time and never leave you stranded. Factory stuff works and lasts-


The Mustang injection is easy to install - hell, most of the wiring harness can be put on the lower intake before you even drop the motor in-
 

matts460

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I also agree on factory Ignition stuff aswell. Hell hard to beat a Pertronix inside a stock Distribtor if you didnot what or have the Ford duraspark box. Depends on what you have in hand. At least if Pertronix goes out you can throw the points back in in a jiffy. I have used the pertronix since the early 2000's in four differnt Cars ive had. I still have the first original one i bought over a decade ago for my 72 F100 and have put over 50k on it. Now im working on my trust with the duraspark in the Bronco i just bought a year ago as i have never used the duraspark before LOL. Rollor rocker are cheap horspower and can last far longer than stamped steel. I just had to buy all new stamped steel rockers when i rebuilt my heads last year. Nice thing there cheap and they work ok and all, but gee how fun is it to replace valves/regrind the valve tips when those steel rockers wear them out? At the very least if you have screw in rocker shafts...Just get a set of roller rockers/guid plates and the hardend pushrods that go with them. If i had had the money for the extra machine work on my19 68 heads i would have gone with roller rockers too. As i have them on my other toys.
 
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greatguy57078

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I was told this is the correct oil pan for the Bronco 351w conversion. Is this correct?
 

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greatguy57078

greatguy57078

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I need to figure out what I need for a flywheel. I will be running a NV3550 trans. Does anyone have a brand or a part number? Do I need a 28oz flywheel? Keep in mind that this is a 69-70 block with original crank ground .010 under, and I will be using the Explorer serpentine conversion.
 

Doyle

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Jun 12, 2006
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Pan looks correct, the one I use was for a Winson into a Foxbody transplant. All the Winsors were 28 oz, if you have the one that came in the Bronco just have it resurfaced. If you want to use the Explorer balancer you'll have to have it rebalanced at a machine shop.
 
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greatguy57078

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Sounds good. I have a brand new one but no where does it say whether it is 28 or 50oz. It is a AMS brand and it says that it fits '88-'94 5.8 engines. I just wanted to verify as this is a '69-'70 block. I know some that weigh like 6 pounds lighter, so does that matter with a Bronco installation?

I already found a new Explorer balancer so I am having it shipped to the DamperDudes to rebalance it to 28oz.
 
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greatguy57078

greatguy57078

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Any other input on what flywheel to choose for a '69-'70 351w block converting to the Explorer serpentine setup and EFI?
 

rguest3

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28oz Flywheel is required for ALL years 351w. Will need the balancer to be 28oz. as well. The Explorer 50oz will need to be rebalanced to match. Have the whole rotating assembly balanced and it should be perfect.
 
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greatguy57078

greatguy57078

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I also would like to use my stainless steel shorty headers. Will these work with the 351w?
 
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greatguy57078

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These are the numbers that I have found for the pistons. They show 9.14 to 1 with 60.4cc heads.
 
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greatguy57078

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Another concern that I have is that if I do use the GT40X heads would that be too much for the NV3550 to handle? I do have a rebuilt set of cast iron GT40 heads that I could use also?
 
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greatguy57078

greatguy57078

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I am still looking for answers. I wonder what else I might be missing that I have not already asked about a 351w conversion. Gurus?
 
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