Any Bright Ideas? Valve cover bolt snapped flush with head

[MultiBeast]

I can’t drill it at all, likes it’s hardened over time. Not sure how long it has been this way.... can’t drill it. Almost ready to weld a stud on top of it and use a bit on top of valve cover!!

 

[MultiBeast]

Use a nut* on top of valve cover

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I use cobalt drill bits. I think the cobalt drill bits from Irwin are mechanics quality.
I have the Irwin 11119 easy out extractor set with left hand drill bits. It works.
Can you post a picture of it.
Good luck

 

[rmk57]

Valve cover bolts, stock ones anyways are grade 3 bolts at best, should be pretty easy to drill with a good quality drill bit. Try and get the center punch as close to dead center as possible before you start drilling.

 

[Redbark]

If you try to weld it, first drill a hole the same diameter as the bolt through a flat piece of copper (a 1/2 inch copper plumbing fitting pounded flat works fine), place the copper over the broken bolt and against the head so that the bolt is visible through the hole in the copper, and then weld away. The copper concentrates the weld on the bolt face only, so you don't weld on the head, assuming the bolt is broken flush or slightly protruding from the head. If the bolt is broken off inside the head I wouldn't try it as there's a good chance you would weld the head.

 

[68Broncoz]

They also sell reverse drill bits. If you start drilling it might spin out.

 

[rmk57]

And how would you snap off a valve cover bolt to start with? They only take 12-15 lbs. of torque.?:?

 

[ntsqd]

If you are going to drill it you need two things first. A cast aluminum rocker cover and a set of transfer punches (HF will do). Bolt the rocker cover on with all of the other bolts. Find the transfer punch that fits the remaining hole in the cover the tightest. Use that to get a centered center-punch mark.

If the E-Z Out that you have is one of those with the spiral flutes, throw it away. Throw all of those away. You want those that are a tapered square. The spiral type wedge themselves tighter as you turn. Sounds like a good idea until you realize that in the process it is also wedging the stuck bolt tighter into the hole. Not so great, huh?

 

[73azbronco]

heat and chemicals.

PB blaster, not half a can, 1-2 drops, let it sit overnight.

Next day, cover head with alum foil and everything around it, leaving hole for bolt, then propane torch off and on to light smoke level, not everything up in flame level.

Then Dremel grind flat spot, center punch it then try the square bolt extractor.

 

[jonpblewis@yaho]

If you are going to drill it you need two things first. A cast aluminum rocker cover and a set of transfer punches (HF will do). Bolt the rocker cover on with all of the other bolts. Find the transfer punch that fits the remaining hole in the cover the tightest. Use that to get a centered center-punch mark.

x2 for this process. Keeps it clean and on target.

 

[Rustytruck]

Bolt broke off going in or comming out? Long bolt or stock type shorties.

 

[MultiBeast]

Will try a different bit. A punch won’t even mark it! For the record this has been like this for as long as I can remember on this specific truck- no fault of my own!

 

[rmk57]

Could be the originals were replaced with stainless fasteners if a center punch won't touch it.

 

[ntsqd]

SS isn't that hard. In fact that's one of 18-8's problems as a fastener, it's too ductile. It probably work-hardened when twisted off if it is SS, but even then 18-8 is nowhere near as hard as the center punch should be.

 

[MultiBeast]

Soooo it is not coming out. Tig welded a stud to it! All good!