Any way to identify C-bushings?

[serial car restorer]

Posted by @Slowleak in a different thread:

If you can measure camber then you can calculate the caster. Turn the steering wheel to the right and measure the camber. Then turn it to the left and measure the camber. Caster is the average of the two camber numbers.

Based on this, I've got a whopping 1° to 1.5° caster on my '69. Lift is now approximately 3-3.5", was about 1" when I got it and I had to lift it higher in front to match the rear.

So I'm going to guess I need new C-bushings. I suspect the ones in there now are still original. If so, I could probably get by nicely with 4° bushings. But if it already has degreed bushings in it, I'll need the 7° or more?

I'm thinking that 1° is in the ballpark for 3" lift with no other changes. Sound possible to you guys with more experience than I? Do I need to pull bushings on one side and see if I can figure out what they are? Or should I just say that more caster is better and just buy the 7° bushings and call it a day?

 

[Broncobowsher]

If you have power steering, just get the 7° and call it done.

Original bushings? They are rubber without the lip that the degreed ones have.

 

[Oldtimer]

Are bushings rubber or polyurethane?
Stock is rubber, and only come in 0°.
Polyurethane bushing come in 2, 4, & 7 degree, and have never been made in 0 degree.
Jim at Wild Horses has a video on his site that describes how to verify you have degreed bushings installed right side up, because over the years a lot have been installed upside down (and a few were mismarked).

 

[serial car restorer]

I do have power steering (now), so sounds like 7° will be the ticket. Thanks!

 

[Oldtimer]

. . . so sounds like 7° will be the ticket. Thanks!

Which may play havoc with pinion / drive shaft angles and front U-joint.

 

[serial car restorer]

Which may play havoc with pinion / drive shaft angles and front U-joint.

True, I'lll look at that as well.