Anyone gone back to rear drums?

[Mark]

I'm using a parkling brake handle from an Audi between the seats (so that it truly can be used as an 'emergency' brake to get you home, unlike the stock pedal) but the e-brake setup is otherwise all stock....which is nice.

Hmmm, that sounds good.
I'd be interested to see photos of the linkage you created for this.

 

[Miley]

Yeah, I'd love to see some pics of that handle setup BMC69....

 

[bmc69]

I'll take a couple..you can barely see it in the only pic I have of the tunnel area and I was showing off my multi-function gear shift head, not the e-brake lever. That rig is covered up with a tarp out in the rain/snow/muck but it has to come in the shop very soon anyway to get a boo boo from last ride fixed so I can go to Paragon in a couple weeks. I'll post pics in own thread, too. ;D

 

[bsaunder]

add another one to the list that would like to see the photos of the hand brake setup. I've got seat tie-ins on my cage that I was thinking about mounting a hand brake to, just haven't figured out how yet.

- I've had the parts to convert to rear disk using eldorado calipers for >5 years now and I doubt I'll use them. The rear only does ~30% of the braking when driving down the road anyways and drums are much better as parking brakes (self actuating of sorts). If I went disk it would be the explorer setup so I'd still have a drum parking brake, but thats more $$ that I'm still way overspent on the Bronco anyways.

 

[Miley]

Currie just hooked me up!!!!

My issue has pretty much solved itself. I just sold my complete rear axle minus the 3rd member and a VW bug I've been sitting on for a while and had $1400 burning a hole in my pocket. I called up Currie, dropped the hammer, and still have a couple hundred left over for some Christmas gifts.

Thanks for all the feedback. It would have cost me around $250 to go back to drums and it just made me sick to invest that cash in something I already had. Besides, S/C-HD2002 called and reminded me of all the sludge and sh!t that we used to get trapped in our drums on trails with water crossings.

Hear is the housing, a nice upgrade:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/ProductsRE.aspx?id=1778

And brake kit:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=1229

Miley

 

[craigaria]

nice! show some pics after the install. Hope it all works out smooooth...

 

[Miley]

nice! show some pics after the install. Hope it all works out smooooth...

Will do! And, like you, I hope it works out smooooooth as well! ;D

Miley

 

[toddz69]

Currie just hooked me up!!!!

My issue has pretty much solved itself. I just sold my complete rear axle minus the 3rd member and a VW bug I've been sitting on for a while and had $1400 burning a hole in my pocket. I called up Currie, dropped the hammer, and still have a couple hundred left over for some Christmas gifts.

Thanks for all the feedback. It would have cost me around $250 to go back to drums and it just made me sick to invest that cash in something I already had. Besides, S/C-HD2002 called and reminded me of all the sludge and sh!t that we used to get trapped in our drums on trails with water crossings.

Hear is the housing, a nice upgrade:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/ProductsRE.aspx?id=1778

And brake kit:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=1229

Miley

That's exactly what I put in my truck a year or two ago - you'll love it. And don't forget to get the e-brake cables from Currie too. I kept my 3rd member and sold everything else.

Todd Z.

 

[toddz69]

Here's a few shots of my hand e-brake setup. The handle itself is from a early Fox body Mustang ('79 or '80, as I recall) and the boot is from a BMW 5-Series. My dad built this setup back in the '80s for my truck (his at the time) after the foot pedal bracket kept breaking. The underside shots show the angle iron subframe that he built for the cables, etc. Not the cleanest fab in the world, but it works great. Activated stock drums until '93 and various renditions of discs (Lincolns, Caddys, and now Explorers) since then.

Todd Z.

 

[NicksTrix]

TZ, is that some sort of a reverse light switch off to the left of the shifter?
can't tell if it hits the handle assembly to actuate.
nick

 

[lars]

...and the rear brakes lock up just a wee bit before the front, just like you want anyway.

Not to be snitty, BUT... you actually want the fronts to lock first. The reason? A skidding tire actually has less traction (friction) than a rolling one that hasn't quite locked yet. The tires with the least friction prefer to go ahead of the ones with the most. If the backs are locked and the fronts are rolling, the rear sees its opportunity to proudly lead the charge. Result: you find yourself looking at where you've been. Kind of sucks. The couple of times it's happened to me were incredibly unpleasant. I have a Wilwood proportioning valve, which I adjusted by driving on dirt at speed, then hitting the brakes hard. I backed it out until the fronts locked first. Much better.

 

[toddz69]

TZ, is that some sort of a reverse light switch off to the left of the shifter?
can't tell if it hits the handle assembly to actuate.
nick

No, unfortunately not. As you well know, the Art Carr/Winters shifters don't allow the use of the stock NSS so I never had back-up lights with it. I do have a roller switch here that I wanted to adapt to work, but never got around to it. Now that I'm doing a 700R4, I think I'll have some better options for reverse lighting. The two switches on the angled aluminum piece behind the shifter aren't hooked up to anything.......yet. One of them will eventually activate the rear-facing amber I have mounted on the rollcage.

Todd Z.

 

[bmc69]

Not to be snitty, BUT... you actually want the fronts to lock first. The reason? A skidding tire actually has less traction (friction) than a rolling one that hasn't quite locked yet. The tires with the least friction prefer to go ahead of the ones with the most. If the backs are locked and the fronts are rolling, the rear sees its opportunity to proudly lead the charge. Result: you find yourself looking at where you've been. Kind of sucks. The couple of times it's happened to me were incredibly unpleasant. I have a Wilwood proportioning valve, which I adjusted by driving on dirt at speed, then hitting the brakes hard. I backed it out until the fronts locked first. Much better.

Not taken as snitty. First, I prefer a rear brake bias and it works better for the way I drive the truck and the way I'm used to driving these short wheel-base beasties. As long as the front wheels are turning while I'm stopping, I'll keep the ends pointed in the right direction. In my MX/TT racing EB, I actually have the front brakes disabled.

That said, I too have an adjustable proportioning valve that is mounted in easy reach and it takes me seconds to change the bias to be even front to back, or forward if I want it that way for some reason.

 

[lars]

Not taken as snitty. First, I prefer a rear brake bias and it works better for the way I drive the truck and the way I'm used to driving these short wheel-base beasties. As long as the front wheels are turning while I'm stopping, I'll keep the ends pointed in the right direction. In my MX/TT racing EB, I actually have the front brakes disabled.

That said, I too have an adjustable proportioning valve that is mounted in easy reach and it takes me seconds to change the bias to be even front to back, or forward if I want it that way for some reason.

In that case, never mind. My comments were directed more at the average driver, and really applies mostly to street driving. Don't need no stinkin' brakes off road anyway. That's what trees & boulders are for...

 

[bmc69]

In that case, never mind. My comments were directed more at the average driver, and really applies mostly to street driving. Don't need no stinkin' brakes off road anyway. That's what trees & boulders are for...

LOL..in MX racing we have a saying "If you are on the brakes, you aren't racing" I almost never use brakes except to stop for the safety check prior to race start start and, occasionally, to try and stop (try, and in the brakes are so packed with water and mud after just one lap, they don't do much braking anyway) before a tree does the job for me when I've 'somehow' gotten off the track.. ;D

 

[bob_lafrentz]

Excellent explanation LARS. I have always wondered why the front should lock up first and now it makes perfect sense. Thanks.