AOD Twin sticks for Dana 20

[mattt]

I have a set of JBFab twin sticks for the AOD adapter for Dana 20. When I went to bolt them up I noticed they were coming thru the body at the back of the factory hole, and will not bolt up to the shift rails without modification. I've been in touch with Jon and we are going to get it worked out. The quickest way to deal with it looks like cutting the hole back about 2". I'm just wondering if other members here bought the AOD/D20 twin sticks and had the same issue? How did you deal with it?

 

[SDlivin]

Not an AOD, but the stock manual 3 spd. JB Fab twin stick, and I did end up having to cut, maybe an inch toward the rear of the hole for it to work.

With that said, I can't recall if I did that mod pre or post 2" BL.

 

[gravy]

I had that set up and had to cut it back a little- I also have a 2in body lift. I worked out fine. You could bend the levers forward at the base of them to push them forward. I had to bend mine to the right to get the clearance I needed

 

[needabronco]

I cut the tunnel hole back and over toward the driver side about a 1/2" or so when I did mine. I also had to use a larger bolt for the AA adapter and drill the bushings in the shifters out a hair. These mods' weren't JB's issue, it was a used AA housing and I assume not a good casting for AA...%)

 

[mattt]

JB is making another set for the AOD adapter. I think when the prototypes were done for the AOD adapter, they were based off the incorrect info that Advance Adapters has in their info sheet for the AOD/D20 adapter. AA claims the AOD, adapter, & D20 are only 3/8" longer than a stock Bronco V8 drivetrain, which we all know is incorrect. The AOD combo is about 1.5" longer than any Bronco stock drivetrain. Moving the sticks forward about 1.5" in the body hole pretty much solves it....see pic.

 

[mattt]

Once again....Jon at JBFab comes thru. He made another set off dimensions I gave him from my EB. Pulled them out of the box, bolted right up and pretty much perfect fit in the factory hole....no trimming required. The prototype testers never mentioned having the issue I had, but one had new tunnel sheet metal so he cut where necessary. It sounds like he is going to change the design. Thanks Jon!

 

[mattt]

Did you have this issue also? On mine, the shift rail for the front(lower one in the pic) is very close to the crossmember. It's so close that there is not enough room to get the nut on the bolt that attaches the linkage to the shift rail. It looks like the only solution is to smash/clearance the crossmember a bit. It's not a matter of worn bushings that are allowing the transfer case to sit lower in the crossmember...bushings are brand new. I'm thinking it's a matter of the Advance Adapters casting and where it positions the transfer case relative to the crossmember.

Anyone else see this issue.....how did you contend with it? Thanks in advance.

 

[Steve83]

On Frank's, I found the AA adapter interfered with the crossmember so badly that I had to cut several holes in the crossmember, AND space it down using thick washers between it & the new poly mounts. So to position the crossmember, I attached the engine/trans/t-case/Xmbr to the engine mounts, then set the angle I wanted, then drilled the new holes for the Xmber brackets.

. . .

 

[mattt]

I had to clearance the sh*t out of my crossmember to work....in multiple locations. Without all the work I put into the crossmember, the adapter would not sit down on the crossmember bushings...it was being held up somewhere around 1/2" if I remember correctly. All of this is in addition to the trough in the center of the crossmember. I think I detailed all the work I put into the crossmember in an older thread.

Some people have had clearance issues with an AOD and needed a body lift....I have tons of clearance and no body lift. I guess getting that to fit correctly has allowed the transfer case to drop down and sit correctly....but also put the shift rail in harms way.

 

[399strokerEB]

I had to clear about an inch on mine with the wild horses kit, not to mention lots of bending to get the stupid L brackets to work halfway decent. Didn't have to drill out the AA adapter just clean out all the mud.

 

[mattt]

Shift rail problem solved.....a clevis pin and cotter pin don't need as much room as a nut on the bottom side. Moving on to the next ?...... I'm still hoping to hear it run within 30 days.....it's been a year so far.