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Are My Dana 20 T-Shift Gears Junk? Perfect? Somewhere In Between?

bulletpruf

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I'm rebuilding a Dana 20 T-shift for my '69 Bronco barn find project. When I drained the fluid, it was really thick and sparkly, so that made me nervous.

Anyway, this is my first time rebuilding one, so I'm not sure what right looks like.

I don't need perfect (i.e., I don't want to spend $500 buying new gears), but I need it work once I reassemble it.

Here's the intermediate drive gear 18 5 9:

IMG_3109.jpg
IMG_3111.jpg
 

mrdrnac

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I'd use them....but that's just me, I'll let the experts advise. They do look better than the ones I'm running in my rebuilt case and mine shifts fine and works fine.
 

Yeller

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I’d use them as well. These gears were fairly crude to begin with. The rounded edges help the gears engage more easily. The drive surfaces look good from what I can see. Often they are worn unevenly due to the shifter being blocked or out of adjustment, that and rust pitting are the 2 most important factors. I’d assemble the case and be proud to use it.
 

JB Fab

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That damage looks similar to what happens when the rear drive pops into neutral under load.
I have run worse. If that was my my case I would absolutely replace the input gear, and run the rest.
Make sure you setup the rear output correctly (on the tight side of spec) to avoided the possibility of popping-out. If you are going to use twin-stick shifters (since you have it disassembled), consider a set of shiftrails with an improved profile.
https://jb-custom-fabrication.mysho...ails-detents/products/ford-d20-shift-rail-kit


Feel free to contact us directly if you have any questions?
 
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bulletpruf

bulletpruf

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That damage looks similar to what happens when the rear drive pops into neutral under load.
I have run worse. If that was my my case I would absolutely replace the input gear, and run the rest.
Make sure you setup the rear output correctly (on the tight side of spec) to avoided the possibility of popping-out. If you are going to use twin-stick shifters (since you have it disassembled), consider a set of shiftrails with an improved profile.
https://jb-custom-fabrication.mysho...ails-detents/products/ford-d20-shift-rail-kit


Feel free to contact us directly if you have any questions?

Thanks for the input (no pun intended).

I'll do a twin stick on the next iteration; I'll be in touch for the necessary bits at that point.

Thanks!

Scott
 

73azbronco

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usable, install go, but...

I would freshen up those front drive gear or pawl studs with a file, good to go. I have a d20 with 130,000 miles and when I rebuilt it some gear teeth had 20% missing from a side due to abuse. Cleaned it up, goes strong.

I can assure you, if someone is selling a new gear set, it will not be made as well as in the 60's/70's.

The key to rebuilding a good d20, is make sure it goes into each gear selection and stays there, that is a result of spending some time on shift levers and ball link thingies.
 
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bulletpruf

bulletpruf

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usable, install go, but...

I would freshen up those front drive gear or pawl studs with a file, good to go. I have a d20 with 130,000 miles and when I rebuilt it some gear teeth had 20% missing from a side due to abuse. Cleaned it up, goes strong.

I can assure you, if someone is selling a new gear set, it will not be made as well as in the 60's/70's.

The key to rebuilding a good d20, is make sure it goes into each gear selection and stays there, that is a result of spending some time on shift levers and ball link thingies.

Ok, so you're referring to the gear in the last picture? Thanks
 

73azbronco

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yes, light filing of the rough spots, dont go crazy smoothing it all out or there wont be a gear left. Like 5 minutes at most
 

Broncobowsher

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Not perfect, but better than most running around that have never been looked at.
Check the bearings, they were probably what was making the glitter.
 

73azbronco

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assuming you are using a brown shoe video?

I also found using a next size up bearing to test fit and backlash helped that way i was not crushing the shims over and over. I could get close with the larger bearing, then easily slip it off and press real bearing on.
 
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bulletpruf

bulletpruf

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assuming you are using a brown shoe video?

I also found using a next size up bearing to test fit and backlash helped that way i was not crushing the shims over and over. I could get close with the larger bearing, then easily slip it off and press real bearing on.

What is a brown shoe video?
 
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OP
bulletpruf

bulletpruf

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he made videos about rebuild trannies, not a thing anymore?

Haven't heard of him. I found Bad Shoe, but he doesn't have any transfer case rebuild videos.

I'm using the service manual and following a few YouTube videos.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
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bulletpruf

bulletpruf

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Cleaned up the gear that needed a bit of work.

IMG_3205.jpg


And then I had to tear down one of my spare Dana 20's looking for good shift rails.

IMG_3208.jpg


And those turned out to be junk, too.

IMG_3209.jpg


But two of the gears in the spare t-case were better than the ones in the one I'm rebuilding, so I'll use those.
 
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