ATF reads overfill on stick

[Otis Campbell]

I recently installed a rebuilt C4. The trans was built years ago but life happens and I just got around to the install. The converter was replaced at the same time. I put a couple of qts in the tc before installing it. Based on info gathered here Im under the impression that the trans + converter should hold somewhere between 17.5 and 22 pints.

I added the remaining fluid from the gallon jug I used to fill the tc. Then added some from another gallon. I let the truck idle in the driveway shifted it between gears.

The stick shows over full. I tried to pull it back in the garage but it would only move in 2 nd gear.

At this point I’ve only got about 6 qts in it so I put the remaining fluid in and it came out of the vent in the adapter housing.

This is a new build and the cooler and lines are new as well. Since the trans is vented I don’t think it can get a bubble in the system causing it to not take fluid.

Any suggestions on either the amount of fluid or the reason for no movement in D or 1?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ba123]

measure in neutral while running. when off, the mark will be higher than it really is.
don't add fluid while running or it's easier to have fluid come out of the vent
After you add, shift through all gears
not sure on your capacity but it also depends on pan and I don't even think it would take half the amount you wrote

If you are low, it won't move.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Doesn't move in D or 1 but has 2nd sounds like a hard parts issue to me.
Does it go into reverse?
Park holds?
Engine revs freely in park?
When you don't have 1st gear, does the engine load up like it is in gear but just won't move, or revs freely like in neutral?

All forward gears the forward clutch pack is applied. You have 2nd gear, so I know that clutch engages.
1st gear in drive does not require and additional applies, there is a sprag that holds and the forward clutch. So you should have 1st gear.
1st gear manual applies the low reverse band to give engine braking in 1st gear you don't get in drive 1st gear. It over-rides the sprag. So a bad sprag can be bypassed with manual 1st selection. The fact you have neither is odd given you have 2nd gear. There are a few more hydraulic checks that can be done, but I am pretty sure the trans is coming out and going to get torn down and rebuilt again.

To fill in the rest of the gears, 2nd gear is the forward clutch applied, and the 2nd gear band applied. 3rd gear is also the forward clutch, and the direct/reverse clutch applied. Reverse is the low/reverse band (the same one that manual 1st uses to bypass the sprag) and the direct/reverse clutch (the one for 3rd gear).

There can be odd things if there is a pressure leak and you get a stray locked clutch or band. But given you have 2nd gear I don't see how that could be the case and not have at least one other forward gear?

 

[Otis Campbell]

Doesn't move in D or 1 but has 2nd sounds like a hard parts issue to me.
Does it go into reverse?
Park holds?
Engine revs freely in park?
When you don't have 1st gear, does the engine load up like it is in gear but just won't move, or revs freely like in neutral?

All forward gears the forward clutch pack is applied. You have 2nd gear, so I know that clutch engages.
1st gear in drive does not require and additional applies, there is a sprag that holds and the forward clutch. So you should have 1st gear.
1st gear manual applies the low reverse band to give engine braking in 1st gear you don't get in drive 1st gear. It over-rides the sprag. So a bad sprag can be bypassed with manual 1st selection. The fact you have neither is odd given you have 2nd gear. There are a few more hydraulic checks that can be done, but I am pretty sure the trans is coming out and going to get torn down and rebuilt again.

To fill in the rest of the gears, 2nd gear is the forward clutch applied, and the 2nd gear band applied. 3rd gear is also the forward clutch, and the direct/reverse clutch applied. Reverse is the low/reverse band (the same one that manual 1st uses to bypass the sprag) and the direct/reverse clutch (the one for 3rd gear).

There can be odd things if there is a pressure leak and you get a stray locked clutch or band. But given you have 2nd gear I don't see how that could be the case and not have at least one other forward gear?

It will rev freely while in P. I didn't rev it past about 2K while in gear and that would only move a little in 2. I don't think I attempted R. Park holds, but, I did have to adjust it which may have occurred after I tried to move it. I'll try again now that I've got the manual selector adjusted.

Would an improper selector adjustment keep the fluid from being pumped into the converter and therefore show over-full on the stick? I haven't put in more than 9 quarts total? Everything I'm reading says that should be in the ballpark of what it takes for the converter and trans.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I ever paid attention to the manual for the amount of fluid. I just add until its right.

When you say it only moved a little, was it slipping and why it only moved a little? Or did you just not try and drive it that way? Was it solid when it went into gear? If it slips, there is a pressure issue. That could explain a lot of the other stuff as well. Almost has me to a bad pump.

 

[Otis Campbell]

Yes, definitely seemed like it was not moving in relationship to the amount of rpm. Pump is what I'm thinking too. Something is keeping the fluid from getting to the converter and that's why it continues to read too full...

 

[DirtDonk]

I don’t think this would have anything to do with your issue, but would any of this occur if the shift rod/lever was going into the transmission body backwards?
We’ve seen that happen before, when somebody rebuilding the transmission was more accustomed to doing it for passenger cars, where the lever was in the opposite direction, than 4wd trucks, where the lever was oriented for that application.
Will the shifting rod to even connect, if the lever was reversed?