Autolite 2100 Carb Rebuild & PCV

[tonytony9]

I finally got the vacuum lines sorted out (new dual port vacuum advance) and I am utilizing the tree and blue cone in the back. I followed a diagram from another thread.

I am still having some idling issues, especially on cold start (will randomly shut off after about 5ish minutes of warming up), usually runs fine after getting up to operating temperature. Sometimes will stall out when going from the highway to off ramp with the combination of braking quickly and downshifting.

So, I am thinking its time to rebuild my carburetor. Not sure when or if ever it has been rebuilt. Does anyone have a suggestion for a rebuild kit? I have a few in the garage for this specific carb from the auto parts store.

I am also going to take care of some leaks from the valve covers, clean and paint them up. Any suggestions on a gasket kit? I like the fel-pro steel core products personally.

Also, any suggestions on PCV and Breather Valve replacement? Looks like I am leaking oil from both, and oil from the tube on the PCV to the back of the carb.

Newbie warning upfront so layman explanations are best for communication.

Also, this piece broke off. What is this called? ^^^

 

[gnpenning]

Have you checked your choke settings and operation?

Without seeing what carb kits you have it's impossible to give a reasonable response. You will need a float as well. Quality is important along with having parts that are compatible with todays fuel. Mike's carburetor is one source for parts.


Red arrow -Dash pot is one of the common names. It is designed to keep the throttle from slamming shut. It should hold the throttle just open and gradually let it come down. From your description i don't think it's working properly?

 

[tonytony9]

Have you checked your choke settings and operation?

Without seeing what carb kits you have it's impossible to give a reasonable response. You will need a float as well. Quality is important along with having parts that are compatible with todays fuel. Mike's carburetor is one source for parts.


Red arrow -Dash pot is one of the common names. It is designed to keep the throttle from slamming shut. It should hold the throttle just open and gradually let it come down. From your description i don't think it's working properly?

No, how do I check my choke settings?

Dash pot, thank you! The spring which is usually on the end of it cracked off. I will have to order a new dash pot.

Do you know if I have my PCV and Breather hooked up correctly? I have driver's side, PCV valve running to the front port on my air cleaner. Passenger's side port runs to the back of carb. You can see this in picture 1.

 

[DirtDonk]

It looks correct to me from here.
Ford changed the orientation in 71, with the valve on the driver side and the clean air return on the passenger side.
The system does not care where it sucks, or where it allows clean air in. As long as it’s a complete loop.
Your naming is not quite correct however. The actual PCV valve itself, is what is on the back passenger side corner.
That is correctly plumbed to full vacuum underneath the carburetor. It looks pretty old, however, so it wouldn’t hurt to either clean it, or replace it.
Check the hose while you’re there to make sure that it hasn’t caked up with carbonized oil.
Same for the carb spacer the next time you have it off, to be sure that the port is open.
Of course a quick check would be just to pull the valve up out of the valve cover while the engine is running and see how much vacuum signal you are getting through it.
Putting your finger over the open end should let you see how much it is sucking, and it should change the action of the engine idle.
Plugging and releasing should notably change the idle quality

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would run the numbers on the carb tag. I thought the dashpot was mostly on cars with automatic transmissions. Most any carb kit you get will have extra parts to fit most variations of the particular model carb. Good luck

 

[bmc69]

I've rebuilt a LOT of carbs..hundreds. I used to own a carb shop back in the 80s but continued to rebuild them for "friends and family" right to this day. Two very important items regarding the 2100 2V carbs. 1) The carb kits almost never include one, but the replacement of the composite float is an absolute "must do". To most, they "feel fine"...not realizing that the difference between good and not is a few tenths of an ounce. 2)..this is the elephant in the room: the emulsion tubes that are part of the boost venturi and gas feed assembly will split lengthwise as a result of brass embrittlement. That's a result of age, of course, but even more so a consequence of running ethanol gas.

Once the emulsion tubes split (you sometimes can barely see the splits without magnification), the off-idle performance really suffers. I once had a shelf full of 2100 carb cores and now have almost none; I went through them all to find and "harvest" any good boost venturi assemblies I could find. And of course there are several different versions, depending on carb size.

 

[tonytony9]

Have you checked your choke settings and operation?

Without seeing what carb kits you have it's impossible to give a reasonable response. You will need a float as well. Quality is important along with having parts that are compatible with todays fuel. Mike's carburetor is one source for parts.


Red arrow -Dash pot is one of the common names. It is designed to keep the throttle from slamming shut. It should hold the throttle just open and gradually let it come down. From your description i don't think it's working properly?

After some research it is a bit confusing whether they came on autos and manuals. Although, based on the issue I'm having with stalling on quick deceleration and the the purpose of a dash pot, I do not see why I would not replace my broken one. Purchasing a new one today.

 

[tonytony9]

After some research it is a bit confusing whether they came on autos and manuals. Although, based on the issue I'm having with stalling on quick deceleration and the the purpose of a dash pot, I do not see why I would not replace my broken one. Purchasing a new one today.

It looks like I will have to trim the pin? Any idea best execution for this: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/dashpot-85-900b