Ball Detent & Spring

[jmangi62]

Hi guys. Hey it's been awhile since I had to do any t-case work,so my question is, can I replace both springs from underneath the rig? I have a 70 t style case, and I bought the kit from WH. I also couldn't find a video on it or anything. Thanks ?:?

 

[Viperwolf1]

The front side is easy to access from underneath. The rear side will be at the top of the tcase. You would probably need either a body lift or additional access through the floor to get to the rear plug.

 

[jmangi62]

I've got a 1" body lift and twin sticks, can I do this without removing the tcase from the truck? That's my main concern. Thanks for your help. Jim.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Yes if you can get to them.

 

[Glass Pony]

Even with a 2" body lift I had to get the wife to bail me out on the top. My paws were a little too big.

 

[JB Fab]

Those areas have a tendency to collect a bunch of dirt/grit.
Make sure you get the areas as clean as you can with a wire brush and compressed air, otherwise when you pull the plug out, crap will fall into the detent bore.

 

[jmangi62]

Thank guys, my rig is a complete resto hasn't been driven but a couple times, and the dam shifter pops out of gear,so I figured these two replacement springs would correct this problem. Jim

 

[jmangi62]

Yes if you can get to them.

Thanks a ton Viper, this is perfect. Jim

 

[bronkenn]

JB Fab on here makes adjustable plugs for those detent springs so you can adjust the tension on them.

 

[68rustbucket]

Are there printed instructions available anywhere for this procedure?

 

[jmangi62]

JB Fab on here makes adjustable plugs for those detent springs so you can adjust the tension on them.

Thanks, I have the JB Fab twin sticks,none better. I purchased the WH kit that has the new stiffer springs and balls,all I have to do is install them,easy peasy right.I'm hoping and praying this little mod does the trick. Been having the tcase shifter popping out of gear while driving,very annoying. ;D

 

[JB Fab]

FYI

If the rear is popping into neutral, the most likely reason is excessive endplay in the rear output shaft. The rebuild instructions have a measurement for endplay, but that is based on stock drivelines with stock angles. Any vibration from the driveline will cause the output shaft to vibrate in an elliptical pattern and the sliding gear to walk-off the output shaft into the neutral position. The transfer case should stay in the selected gear regardless if it has a shifter on it or not. By locking a shifter into position with a strap or a bungee causes the sliding gear to run in contact, under pressure against the shift fork. When I set up the rear output I use 5inlbs preload in the output. And run 50wt MT-1 rated lube.. Most people don’t understand that 90wt gear oil is should not be used in a D20 due to the moly-disulfate pressure additives in hypoid gear oil attack the bronze thrust washers on the idler gear.

 

[ngsd]

Just following up for others sake on this thread. I was looking for the same info and was concerned with a 1 inch body lift. I had no issues and it was a ten minute job and easier than a lot of things to get to. I have a 1 inch lift. Just wanted to pass this along.

 

[lgdpt]

Same for me.... super easy and quick with a 1” BL

 

[Huckit36]

I’m having the same problem, but it only seems to drop out of gear at low speeds from 4 low. Just got the balls and springs from WH and I’m already running the JB twin sticks. Question though about the end play that JB Fab mentioned. Is this something that can be adjusted when I change the springs? Or does that require a full rebuild? Running a 2” body lift and Tom woods drive lines if that matters. Thanks!

 

[ngsd]

I am hoping this takes care of it. I thought it was my linkage as after I tightened it up it worked for a while then started again. I will see if this helps but if not it may have to come back out and get looked at to see if it was set up properly. It was rebuilt when I bought it so I hope so. Good luck with yours.

 

[JB Fab]

I’m having the same problem, but it only seems to drop out of gear at low speeds from 4 low. Just got the balls and springs from WH and I’m already running the JB twin sticks. Question though about the end play that JB Fab mentioned. Is this something that can be adjusted when I change the springs? Or does that require a full rebuild? Running a 2” body lift and Tom woods drive lines if that matters. Thanks!

You can just remove the rear output shaft assembly (make sure you get all 13 roller bearings out), to re-setup the output shaft.

 

[ngsd]

You can just remove the rear output shaft assembly (make sure you get all 13 roller bearings out), to re-setup the output shaft.

Thank you. Also, I saw two different pictures of the ball and spring installation and was wondering which one is correct or if it matters. One shows the ball going in first and then the spring and another has the spring in first and the ball on top. Could you tell me which one is correct?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Thank you. Also, I saw two different pictures of the ball and spring installation and was wondering which one is correct or if it matters. One shows the ball going in first and then the spring and another has the spring in first and the ball on top. Could you tell me which one is correct?

Spring goes between the ball and bolt.

 

[jmangi62]

I did the new ball and detent mod and so far so good. It did pop out once but I think my knee may have hit it. Man, when I was a young man I was waaay smaller than I am now .;D