Ball Joint Install questions...

[mhinchliffe]

Ok guys the deal. I'm converting my 73 from drum to disc. Grabbed a set of what I believe to be 78 F150 knuckles.
Then went off to my favorite NAPA and got my replacements. I got the good USA made ball joints and bearings.Then a couple of 365 front axle U-Joints, unfortunately they are not greasable.
Biggest question I have is that through reading here and elsewhere the torque spec for the lower nut is 100 ft-lbs, the "preload sleeve", or whatever it's called is 50 ft-lbs AFTER torquing the lower and the 80 ft-lbs on the top castle nut. Here's the tool I made for the preload sleeve out of a 1/2" drive, 3/4" deep socket which worked great. It looks like the sleeve is bottomed out against the upper ball joint shaft - Is this correct?
Thanks so much for your replies and insight.
That's all for now

 

[SteveL]

Not sure about the ball joint specs but if you're going to use your stock 73 tie-rod set up you will need the adapter bushings so they fit the knuckles

 

[mhinchliffe]

...on order, thx for the check tho.
I'm very comfortable with the torque spec(s), it's the sleeve that's run down that just doesn't look/feel right so I wanted to post up here before I put the top nut on.

 

[langester]

I had that happen to mine when I installed my ball joints. On one side it bottomed out, I used the old sleeve in place of the new one and it did not bottom out. Not sure if there was something wrong with the sleeve or not but it made me feel better.

 

[mhinchliffe]

Thx Langester, I'll give it a try.

 

[Jaybr]

I installed them a few months ago and from what I remember I seated the ball joint then backed the nut off and installed the sleeve.


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[twodogs]

I would take a look at this video a number of times. You should be setting the pre-load on the knuckle through the sleeve you mention. He does a good job of demonstrating and explaining the whole process. It's pretty easy, but it does take some time and patience.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OBL2Amk5R4

 

[Jaybr]

I would take a look at this video a number of times. You should be setting the pre-load on the knuckle through the sleeve you mention. He does a good job of demonstrating and explaining the whole process. It's pretty easy, but it does take some time and patience.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OBL2Amk5R4

That’s the video I used, used a fish scale to measure


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[DirtDonk]

We've been seeing this more and more in recent years. Two explanations I give it are long years of use somehow spreading the steering yokes apart, and just more of today's crappy modern parts.
But double-check your spec too. Mine is 40lbs, not 50lbs and that would make all the difference too.

Even though it happens all the time now, to my mind it's still wrong. I never had the threads extend down outside of the hole in years past. Now I stop the torque at less than the spec instead. Even below 40.
Used Moog, TRW and one other brand I can't remember up to about 20 years ago and just like the originals, you could just barely see the threads starting to be visible out the bottom. They NEVER ran all the way down to the ball joint body, and always ran down tight on the tapered stud long before that point.

First ones I saw do something similar to yours were some Spicers about 7 or 8 years ago I think. And even they did not actually touch the casing of the ball-joint if I remember. But again, as said when it started to go that far out of the yoke I just stopped short of the spec and relied on the final pull-scale check.

What torque did yours achieve before they started coming out the bottom? What torque after a little bit of extra turning?
If it was me I'd raise it back up and re-check. If you can get it to 30 or 35 with it just barely sticking out the bottom, do the final check and see what you get.
The final check has so far shown me that things are still working as expected.

I forget at the moment exactly what range I usually use, but the Chilton's spec is anything below 26lbs is a pass. I think there should be a minimum too though, so maybe try to achieve between 10 and 25 pounds?

Paul

 

[Timmy390]

Chilton's says to:
Torque lower nut to 70-90 ft lbs.
Torque adjusting sleeve to 40 ft lbs.
Torque upper nut to 100 ft lbs.
Test knuckle. Effort to turn should not exceed 26 lbs.

Tim

 

[mhinchliffe]

Thx Timmy390. I put the sleeve at 40 and had 18# of pull
Langester, changed 'em out and no difference. May have been that way under all the crud an I didn't even notice. Thx for the audible.
Paul, thx for your thorough explanation and thoughts. You are a true resource.