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Best shock hoops?

Clint

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
1,035
Loc.
Grand Junction, CO
I honestly think you will have less problems with the F250 mounts since they do not have mounting tabs like the hoops do. I will take some pictures of mine tonight and post them. We build hoops and tied to an engine brace, and Im very confident that they will not break.
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
david heater said:
OK, but why would you use mounting tabs and then spring bushings to mount. that is why he has to have the cross over in the engine compartment. not a bad idea. but to me it seems like more stuff to deal with un-bolt the cross over to re-move the parts off the top of the motor. hope the cross over bolts stay tight or you have a lot more issues to deal with. Still leaning towards Duffs hoops....;)

A few of my thoughts on hoops:

1. Ask yourself the question: Do I really NEED (not just want for the bling bling factor) dual front shocks for the type of driving I really do?

In most cases I see, I'd say no, duals are not needed for most owners. Duals were originally used for high speed desert racing when shock technology was not as advanced as it is now, and multiple shocks were used to get the proper dampning and to reduce the foaming and fade caused by overworking one shock. Many Baja racers used to used 3 or 4 per wheel, now many only use one.

If your looking at running duals cause you NEED them, consider a higher quality single shock (some of the Bilsteins come to mind).

For low speed rock crawling, I definatly don't see the need for duals from a functional standpoint. Yes, I have had them in the past as well :-[ , but then I realized I was spending and extra $300 for four more shocks, more for different rear mounts and front hoops, etc. That money would be better spent on a either better shocks or other performance enhancing mods IMO.

If you want the bling bling racer look of duals, there's no arguing that if that's what you're after. ;)



2. The cross brace between hoops is not a bad idea with any type of hoop or single tower, many desert racers use these and many modern cars use similar braces between the strut towers for added stiffness. If made with removable bushing mounts, it would be a good idea IMO.


3. Removable hoops are not a bad ideas either. At the recent East Coast Bronco Roundup, we had a participant who had his aftermarket PS box (Duff's, WH or ?) crack at a couple of the mounting tabs. I had a spare stock box I was going to give him, but then we realized that swapping his box on the trail would require removal of lots of accesories, coolers, etc that were in the way to remove the box by pulling it up through the engine compartment.


On my trail rig I run a modifed version of the single shock F-250 mount behind the coil tower. (a guy on one of the EB lists made mounts similar to the F-250, but a bit wider and longer, and I added 2" to that as well to run the 14" shock I wanted). I've also trimmed my inner fenders a bit as many of us have. I can now very easily R&R a steering box by pulling it out through the wheel well. Most hoops will make it difficult to do this as well. It's not a big deal to many of you I'm sure, but for those who wheel hard and have cracked boxes or broken sector (and sometimes it does not take all that much) , or simply blown a lower seal that left you dead in the water, easy R&R on the trail (or in the shop) is worth a lot more than bling bling or added dampening you *may* not even need.

Last I heard, these towers are now available through AWS in St. Louis. 314-966-6692, ask for Steve. They were about $75 when I got mine from the other guy before he had Steve make them. Yes, they are more than the $23 for a pair of Ford F-250 mounts, but they are longer and offer a bit more clearance on the shock tube (and they have "racer holes" for a bit of a bling bling look ;D ) and they are less expensive than hoops :cool: .

My point is that hoops are OK and serve a purpose, but are not necesarily the only option for long travel, good performing suspensions. If duals are not needed, there are options other than hoops to consider that can work as well and cost less while allowing less clutter in the wheel well that can benefit you when it comes to working on the rig . :)
 

david heater

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2002
Messages
358
Loc.
Westminster,Co
Drew,
you list out a lot of good points. And I totally agree with the single shock. I guess in the end it is all with what you want and how you intend to use your rig. I don't jump mine (hell not even sure I could get it going fast enough)
anyhow like I said you really need to figure out how you are going to use you rig......and build from there...
 

raharr3

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Messages
787
Loc.
Linden,Ca
Hey Drew,
Thanks for the info. I only want to be able to put the longest possible shock on me front ;D
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,184
raharr3 said:
Hey Drew,
Thanks for the info. I only want to be able to put the longest possible shock on me front ;D
I had a friend do that to his TJ in the rear. Kind of funny to watch him flex and bottom out one shock and the spring fall out of the other side. He finally got a set of shocks that fit. A little tape measure, jack and jackstands, remove the wrong shocks and see how far we could stuff it, then how far we could droop it. Found something that was a little larger then that range and the rig worked much better.
 

highrlr

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
126
Loc.
Bismarck, ND
Broncitis- Does that AWS that you mentioned have a website? Or do you have a picture of your setup with the shock mounts you were talking about?
 

chuck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Messages
6,474
Loc.
Ingram, Texas
I agree with Drew and that is the reason I don't offer a shock hoop. The F-250 mount can put the shock right to the top of the nner fender and I have yet to see one come off
 
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Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
AWS dos not have a website that I'm aware of (it's actually a crane business owned by a Bronco family that gets lots of parts laser and plasma cut for the cranes, so he gets some 4x4 items made as well).

I'll look for some pics tonight. I'm not sure if I have any closeups of the AWS style mounts or not, but I do have some pics of when I was measuring travel to determine the location of my front and rear mounts.

If you willing to make them fit, I agree, go with the longest shock you can (since it's pretty much proportional to getting the longest possible travel). That way, if set up correctly, your shocks will not be the limiting factor in your suspension travel and you will not have to buy new ones if you make further improvements later.
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Yes, Chuck's correct, they can bottom if too long, but that's why I mentioned "if you're willing to make them fit" in my last post ;)

Here's one of the only pics I could find of the custom version of the F-250 mounts. I added an additional 2" in length to the frame end of mine so I could properly fit the 9012's the way I wanted. These are already a bit longer then stock F-250 mounts, but I'm not sure how much.

I also had these cad plated, they come bare.

Excuse the mess in the pic, that rats nest of wire is where the chassis harness and much of the EFI wires meet at the dual Optima blue tops I have mounted in teh firewall where the heater airbox used to be.

In this pic I was pulling the 351W, C4 and D-20 with crossmember all at once. This is when I started making my removable front tubular clip (which I still have not got to finishing yet :-[ )
 

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Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Here are a few pics when I was taking measurements to determine my front shock mount placement...
 

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Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Also checking steering and other parts for interference while I was at it....
 

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Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Does anyone have any pics of the stock F-250 mount for comparison? I thought I had some of my buddies rig, but could not find it. He also runs 9012's on his competition EB, so it's all in how you make/locate the upper and lower mounts to make it all work without bottoming or limiting travel.
 

TIGERNUTZ

Full Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
281
Loc.
Louisiana
Broncitis, I'm trying to decide what I want to do to my bronco before I start buying parts. You know, have a direction in mind before I have to buy the same parts again down the road (I tend to change my mind a lot!) Anyway, you are making me think twice about the shock hoops I have benn thinking of. Your rig is looks like the direction I want to go in. How much lift and what size tires are you running?
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Yes, over the last 15 years that I've been into EB's, I've spent LOTS of money twice :( :mad: :-[ !

I always suggest to those just getting into the build up of their rig to get out to a Bronco event if they can. There you will able to see lots of rigs with many aftermarket and custom fabbed parts up close. There are enough events around (like our club's East Coast Bronco Roundup, or SOB, Free 4 All, Bronco Daze, ACB's Stampede, etc.) that there should be one within a days drive to most everyone

Those are 38.5 x 14.5 x 15 Swamper SX's on 15 x 10 MRT wheels.

My lift is sort of a conglomeration of things:

Front:
4.5" or 5.5" coils from CITI dester Motorsports (I think Protofab may also sell these?). I also have a support plate I made that goes under the lower coil plate since many of the plates I've removed have been deformed (bent down over the radius arms mounting surface), these add about 5/8".

Rear: In that picture I have stock leafs with a set of early prototype BC spring rockers (adds about 2.5") and a custom shackle reversal (about 5").

Yes, when the rig is unloaded, it sits ass high like a racoon :D , but when my tools and spare parts are loaded, it's level. :)

I've run it this way for several years now and it has worked well overall and was very good for a fairly low $ approach. I will be changing some things around during my latest rebuild of this rig, mainly for something new, but also to try to get a bit more predictable handling on off camber and steep ledges.

I plan to stretch the wheel base to about 100-102" by moving the front and rear each about 4-6" or so. I'm also probably going to use either coils in the rear or the new fox air sping/shock (maybe in front as well?). This will likely be with the CAGE long arms on both ends and a modified version of of current traction arm in the rear.

As with most of our rigs, this is a continual, never ending project ;D .

Hoops are fine if you need the duals, but otherwise, IMO, spend the hoop and dual shock $ on something more beneficial like beadlocks, tires, ram assist, a full cage, etc., etc.
 

TIGERNUTZ

Full Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
281
Loc.
Louisiana
etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc,........%)

I hope my wife never finds out how much this "little" project is gonna cost!:eek:
 

david heater

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2002
Messages
358
Loc.
Westminster,Co
Drew,
do you have apicture with these installed with your front clip on? flexing it like when you measured for your shock lenght? I'm really starting to re-think the F250 mounts and just add 2" on to them and go for it....
 

david heater

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2002
Messages
358
Loc.
Westminster,Co
TIGERNUTZ said:
etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc,........%)

I hope my wife never finds out how much this "little" project is gonna cost!:eek:

God I hope she is understanding,because it will never stop. my wife and I have a good understanding I spend 500 on my girlfriend ( the bronco) then come her birthday,christmas, aniversary etc there better be somethiing more then flowers and dinner....lets just say she is now sporting a nice 1-carrat diamond ring so yu can do the math...
 

Lttrbox

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
593
Loc.
IF
do you have apicture with these installed with your front clip on? flexing it like when you measured for your shock lenght? I'm really starting to re-think the F250 mounts and just add 2" on to them and go for it....

Try this http://classicbroncos.com/f250shockmounts.shtml. Ive also done this mod and got 9012s under it. No bottom or droop restrictions other than the springs. While your doing this be sure to check compression with your tires turned both directions. If memory surves, the stock 250 mounts have an angle to them such that if not adjusted for will limit compression during a turn.
 
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