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Blue Sea 12 circuit fuse box

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VB67bronco

VB67bronco

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Ya... mine is nasty looking. That’s why I wanted to replace it all together.. but the way it’s designed with fuses and and wires linked together by the bus bar makes it very difficult to just disconnect each wire from it and connect them to a new stand alone fuse in a new Fuse block
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DirtDonk

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Yeah, for sure that box isn't passing electrons like it used to!

The buss-bar thing should not be too much of a stumbling block. After all, it just means that those particular circuits are using a common "input" voltage. The "output" to each component is still on it's own wire.

And it looks like in your case the cigar lighter circuit was originally included, but just rusted out completely in front. The buss-bar and Green wire are there. Just no fuse or contacts/clamps.
I'd say your timing is good for a new one after all. Not a sub panel, but as a new main panel too.

Paul
 

rguest3

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Blue Sea makes great stuff. However, even though it's a Marine Product, it not not really weatherproof.

I have found some other Weatherproof Fuse/Relay boxes on eBay that are based on the sealed box made by Bussmann. Most of these are for added circuits and are independent of the chassis Harness. They do have more circuits than the original Bronco chassis Harness. They can be used for the main power for your Bronco.
 

DirtDonk

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Yeah, some cool stuff from Bussman over the last few years for sure. I think there are even a couple of threads following some installs. But more have used the Blue Sea stuff I think.
A couple of the harness manufacturers have used their stuff as well. I'm not sure but Painless isn't even using one in theirs.

Hard to argue with water-proof (or even just water-resistant) vs just cool looking!
Quality wise though it's hard to wrong either way.

Paul
 

sykanr0ng

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The one argument against 'waterproof' electrical boxes that I have seen is that they do not let water that does get in (like condensation) out any easier than it gets in.
 
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VB67bronco

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no picture.



...from battery power (+) run short 8 gauge wire to fuse. Then short 8 gauge wire to relay . Then an 8 gauge wire to your sub panel.

My panel has a ground (-) side on it. So, 8 gauge ground wire from sub panel to a good grounding spot.



Only use a 50 amp or lower rated fuse with this set up. My research indicates my 60 amp fuse is to big. Will be changing to 50 amp. I'm powering heated seats, a/c, etc.



What is a good grounding spot? The body? The alternator? The engine block? The battery??


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DirtDonk

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Where will this panel be mounted?
Battery is by nature the "best" but it's often the least convenient too.
As long as your main grounding scheme is sound, you can ground the new panel just about anywhere because your whole rig will be well grounded.
But in lieu of perfection (hey, it's a Bronco, right?%)) find the next best things to the battery. That's usually near the main body and engine grounds if feasible.
The alternator is not a bad place, but maybe if you're that close, grounding to the main engine ground cable point is even better.
Just remember that the power feed AND the ground need to have the same capacity.

Personally, even though I like 8g wire, I think it's a bit overkill unless you're going to keep the fuse panel far away from the battery and power heavier than normal loads through it. Especially over short distances, a 10g wire would be easier to run and have plenty of capacity.
The length and maximum load indicates what gauge wire is needed.

Even a 10g wire can handle 120amps over a short distance for awhile. The factory setup was 15 to 20 feet or so of measly little 10g wire. Nothing exotic and it could handle the stock optional 60, and upgraded 70 amps for reasonable periods with zero issue. Did it on mine with dual batteries running refrigerators, lights and all sorts of fun stuff like that for years.
Six inches of 8g could probably handle 250 amps. Can your fuse panel? Would it even need to?
Is the relay you'll be using capable of more? Most standard relays are either 30a or 40a rated. For this panel you'd want a heavier one for the main circuit. For example a 70a rated relay. If so, 10ga is likely more than enough still.

So using Charlie's 50a rated fuse scenario (down from 60a), you can easily protect a 10g wire with that. It's what some of the full harness manufacturers like Painless use in their systems as well. A single 10ga wire over several feet, feeding the entire 20+ fuse panel, protected by a single 60a Maxi-Fuse.
Painless has upgraded their main fuse for their 10g charge line from the old 60a version to a 70a version if I'm not mistaken.

I'd be interested to hear more of what Charlie's research has told him about the 50a fuse need. This is important stuff, so any new information is good.
Even though I'm big on overkilling battery and starter cables, I agree using closer to your need for other stuff, rather than just over-killing unnecessarily is a good thing. That includes the wire gauge as well as the fuse rating.

And that 50a is all the more reason that you don't need 8g wire.
Did you decide this is going to be your main panel, or a sub-panel? Is it going to be handling all duties, or just some?
Are you going with the single-stage, or dual-stage (keyed AND constant) versions?
What is it's maximum rated current capability?

Maybe that's more info than we really need for this relatively simple-in-concept production. But Enquiring minds need to know...;)%)

Thanks

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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...My research indicates my 60 amp fuse is to big. Will be changing to 50 amp. I'm powering heated seats, a/c, etc.

Hey Charlie. In case you didn't see my comments about this in all the other gobbledygook I've been spewing forth with, what was it they were saying about 60a fuses? What were you looking for and how did 60a end up being too much?

Curious because most of the ones I've done have utilized a 60a fuse like you have. Just want to stay protected and wondering why it's too much?

Thanks.

Paul
 
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VB67bronco

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I did use a 50 amp fuse between the battery pos terminal and the new fuse block.. I ran an 8 gauge wire with an O connector from the battery about 6 inches to the 50 Amp inline fuse
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. I connected the fuse to the flat surface of the wheel well in the engine compartment then ran the 8 G wire from the 50 Amp fuse to the pos post on the new fuse block.. so the new fuse block is in the engine compartment.. close to the battery, the Alternator, the engine block connector and the body... I’m just not sure where to ground the Neg terminal of the new fuse block....


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VB67bronco

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Right now it’s just my sub- panel... with all the cross bus connections on the fuses in the original fuse box I didn’t feel comfortable removing all the original wires from it and moving them to the new fuse block.. I choose the regular (non split busy fuse block).. right now I just plan on running the wires from the new sub panel to the Halo connectors for my LED headlights. I want the Halo lights on and running when ever the truck is on..


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charlie6976

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Paul … more research.
Car stereo amps are using 80 amp fuses with 8 gauge wire. So. using a wire chart is probably best.

I'm leaving the 60 amp in on mine.
 
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VB67bronco

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So I was able to get it built and installed.. but when I started connecting wires to the individual fuse screws with the engine completely off each device had power.. I only want power going through the fuse box and to each device when the truck is running or when the key is in the ACC position.. any advice? What did she do wrong?!


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VB67bronco

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What if I ran the power to the 50 Amp inline fuse from the accessory post on the ignition instead of from the battery???


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DirtDonk

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With the main power connected directly to the battery, there is no possibility of anything other than constant power. The battery is the "one that rules them all"... So to speak, paraphrasingly...

Your connection to the fuse panel's "+" contact needs to be from the switch, or a switched relay for the panel to be switched. Remember, without you putting one in there, there is no such thing as "switched" from the battery.

So yes, if you run power in from the key, there's your switched power.
I would use a relay, but nothing says you can't connect it directly as long as you don't overload the switch itself, or the wiring to it.
Remember that the switch is powered by a paltry 12g wire. Your 8g is completely unnecessary at that point.

I think Charlie said he's got his on a relay? Maybe he can post up some pics of what he used and how he did it.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Paul … more research.
Car stereo amps are using 80 amp fuses with 8 gauge wire. So. using a wire chart is probably best.
I'm leaving the 60 amp in on mine.

Yes, the car stereo world is a completely different beast than just load-use wiring.
Two things come into play with stereos in cars. Peak use for momentary current spikes, and posturing/posing.
The high end users want wire that can pass on the peak currents without any loss at all over long distances, so that distortion and loss are minimized. Heck, even speaker wires these days are often larger than the old charging wires in our old vehicles!
They use fancy low-oxygen, ultra pure copper, special jacket material conductors that are super flexible to allow easier and cleaner installations.

And it's all got to look grand and glorious while doing it's job. Hence the "posturing and posing" comment. In that regard, it's all about looks.
Which is why I love car stereo wiring! I've used it in some areas too (mainly battery cables), but have gotten away from it mostly.

So basically with a set load, such as a lamp (especially LED lights), there are no "peaks" above what the rating is. With a motor like a heater motor, it can spike a tiny bit when starting (not enough to blow a 15a fuse though), but other than a radiator cooling fan, not enough to create any drama for a wire. Cooling fans rarely use more than 10g and often are smaller. Heater motors in our vehicles are at most 14g I think. Even standard stereos without a booming amp use 16g power feeds.
It's when you get into the higher powered stuff, like you were checking out, that you need the bigger wires to carry the momentary currents without any loss that can cause distortion through the amp.

So the 8g stereo wire and their very cool fuse holders are great, but totally unnecessary for automotive components that you're not listening to through the speakers.
When using those types of connections and fuse holders, that are designed specifically for that style of 8g wire, I can see it being the cleanest way to get your wiring done. Just not needed for the current flow.
Not sure about cost. Maybe the stereo stuff is a better deal too.

Maybe someone can correct and update all that "stereo-vs-auto" stuff if I'm wrong. But that's the way I see it.

Paul
 
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VB67bronco

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So if I kept the power from the pos terminal on my battery then placed a 50 Amp rated relay between the 50 amp fuse and the new sub panel the new sub panel would only have power once the key was on?


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DirtDonk

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Correct.
The second half of that install though, is making sure the relay's switching terminal is from the ignition switch.
As you probably figured, even for a relay to do the job properly you still have to have the wire controlling the relay come from the switch.

Figured you knew that, but it wasn't mentioned so thought I'd bring it up.

Paul
 
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VB67bronco

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Correct.
The second half of that install though, is making sure the relay's switching terminal is from the ignition switch.
As you probably figured, even for a relay to do the job properly you still have to have the wire controlling the relay come from the switch.

Figured you knew that, but it wasn't mentioned so thought I'd bring it up.

Paul



Thanks Paul!!!


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