Brake caliper woes cont’d

[CopperBronco]

The quality of remanufacturing varies widely. I would be taking that caliper back that has the sludge in the bleeder screw hole. The cores that these companies get are in varying states of garbage. Broken bleeder screws that they have a hell of a time removing. Stripped banjo bolt holes and the likes. They’ll usually drill out broken bolts and got with the next size up for bleeder screws which is why you can have 2 calipers that are the same but have different bleeder screws. Then I’ve seen all kind of sorcery when it comes to banjo bolt holes. Usually none of it any good. Always carefully inspect them when you pick them up and just leave anything at the part store that doesn’t look right. And for the copper washers thinner is better.

Yeah I noticed bleeder screw was M10 and not 3/8 as listed. Pulled it to check seat and put in a speed bleeder and found that… I’m guessing they oiled it to retap it as left all the metal bits and grime in the bottom and it rusted.

 

[ba123]

I agree, take it back. Worth the wait. I got one that had cross threaded banjo threads and prob could’ve made it work, but no thanks.

 

[Oldtimer]

Take it back!
That rusty mud is not from retapping, that is years of moisture in brake fluid sludge.
I wonder what the piston bore in the caliper looks like.

 

[CopperBronco]

Almost done here! Just have the smallest leak at bleeder valve threads, but fearful of overdoing it. I’ve loosened/tightened back and forth a few times trying to get it to seal/seat on the caliper. Any advice or tips without having to tighten even more?

Also is it okay to clamp the soft lines at the caliper? I have a special vise grip hose clamp… wasn’t sure if bad to use on softer hose lines. Just trying to avoid leaking fluid everywhere if I need to pull bleeder.

 

[CopperBronco]

Better question might be is if caliper seat is not clean, it looked okay before I installed, so I need new caliper or is there a tool to fix it? Or a technique to smooth surface?

 

[Steve83]

Better question might be...a technique to smooth surface?

Yes. It's called "remanufacturing".

 

[CopperBronco]

Yes. It's called "remanufacturing".

They are remanufactured… , I went out and just loosened and tightened gently like 10 times and it seems to have sealed after a 20mph stop test… it was very minor leak where I could put finger around threads and find a small amount of fluid when I looked at my finger. Hope it holds up at higher speeds as I dial in my Wilwood adjustable prop valve.

 

[Steve83]

They are remanufactured…

You missed my point. If the surface wasn't smooth, then it wasn't reman'ed correctly.

 

[CopperBronco]

You missed my point. If the surface wasn't smooth, then it wasn't reman'ed correctly.

Nah, I got it… I picked up on sarcasm. I think it’s good now… did another stop test to dial things in… crossing my fingers it holds up at higher speeds.