Brand new Yukon rear axle shafts - how to protect from rust?

[skrit]

I want to avoid my new axle shafts from turning crusty like the original below it - but how? Paint, clearcoat, grease?

 

[doran4x]

Clean and paint exposed surfaces if you want. Anything inside housing is constantly lubricated with gear oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Johnnyb]

The new axle shafts have the seal in the bearing as opposed to the old school seal in the tube the way Ford did it. Either way if the diff is full of oil the axle shaft should be constantly lubricated.

 

[skrit]

The new axle shafts have the seal in the bearing as opposed to the old school seal in the tube the way Ford did it. Either way if the diff is full of oil the axle shaft should be constantly lubricated.

Thanks! First time using the Set 20 style tapered bearings.

 

[skrit]

The new axle shafts have the seal in the bearing as opposed to the old school seal in the tube the way Ford did it. Either way if the diff is full of oil the axle shaft should be constantly lubricated.

Thanks!

 

[DirtDonk]

The new axle shafts have the seal in the bearing as opposed to the old school seal in the tube the way Ford did it.

But to put the full info with this, the Set-20 version is also a the way Ford did it. And during the same time frame as well for the most part.
Just not on Broncos until ‘78 if that’s what you meant.
But, either way, your actual shaft should never look like that.
They only look like that for two reasons that I can think of.
One is that it’s sat for decades without moving and allowed moisture in and to take its toll. Or two, there was too much water in the oil to begin with!

So as they said, you should be good to go.
But honestly, I paint axle shafts myself. Haven’t done it on every occasion, but I’ve done it enough. Only the beginning of the splined part all the way out to the beginning of the machined part and call it good.

 

[skrit]

But to put the full info with this, the Set-20 version is also a the way Ford did it. And during the same time frame as well for the most part.
Just not on Broncos until ‘78 if that’s what you meant.
But, either way, your actual shaft should never look like that.
They only look like that for two reasons that I can think of.
One is that it’s sat for decades without moving and allowed moisture in and to take its toll. Or two, there was too much water in the oil to begin with!

So as they said, you should be good to go.
But honestly, I paint axle shafts myself. Haven’t done it on every occasion, but I’ve done it enough. Only the beginning of the splined part all the way out to the beginning of the machined part and call it good.

Thanks @DirtDonk ...These shafts have a beautiful "WH" sticker on the ends and I'd hate to see a spec of rust on them. Full disclosure, my old axle shaft wasn't that crusty when I took it out. It's been sitting for 10 years in a shed.

BTW, referencing a "poll" I had created several weeks ago about a Yukon nodular drop-in 3rd member with a Yukon locker - you're infinite wisdom influenced my purchase and I ordered it without the Yukon locker. I somehow deleted that poll but anyway, I opted for a a simple Trac Lok. I know the Tru Trac is better overall (no clutches, etc) but for my intended purpose, (mostly street) it seems to be the best option.

Now I have this which is a thing of beauty compared to what I started with. It's 4.56 gears which you also assisted me in selecting! Think I'm going to clear coat it to preserve that new diff look.

 

[DirtDonk]

A thing of beauty, indeed!
I love clearcoating stuff like that. Things like our steering linkage, which almost looks stainless steel when new (but rusts almost instantly!), look great in clear. Including machine, surfaces, and threads in that case.
In your case, just use a good gasket, but don’t paint the machined surfaces on the back.
But everything else could get a clear.
Or the new car color of your choice.

 

[DirtDonk]

Or, if you want people to think you got a super trick, ultra rare, Shelby or Baja edition, you could paint it red oxide primer, and clear.

 

[skrit]

I thought seriously about red oxide but clear is my preference. Gonna use Eastwood 2K.

 

[Yeller]

I was going to say, don’t fill the diff with water . Seriously they will not rust if the oil is clean. If you paint them make sure the get oil will not attack the paint, if it does you’ll not do the bearings any favors.

 

[Glass Pony]

Thanks @DirtDonk ...These shafts have a beautiful "WH" sticker on the ends and I'd hate to see a spec of rust on them. Full disclosure, my old axle shaft wasn't that crusty when I took it out. It's been sitting for 10 years in a shed.

BTW, referencing a "poll" I had created several weeks ago about a Yukon nodular drop-in 3rd member with a Yukon locker - you're infinite wisdom influenced my purchase and I ordered it without the Yukon locker. I somehow deleted that poll but anyway, I opted for a a simple Trac Lok. I know the Tru Trac is better overall (no clutches, etc) but for my intended purpose, (mostly street) it seems to be the best option.

Now I have this which is a thing of beauty compared to what I started with. It's 4.56 gears which you also assisted me in selecting! Think I'm going to clear coat it to preserve that new diff look. View attachment 930809

I agree skrit, too pretty to just throw it under the Bronco. I went with some paint I had laying around.

 

[skrit]

I agree skrit, too pretty to just throw it under the Bronco. I went with some paint I had laying around.
View attachment 930883 View attachment 930884

Nice!