Bronco Graveyard EFI Tank

[74 Bronco Billy]

My technical issue is how to install the recommended Mustang EFI pump into my Brocno Graveyard EFI Tank? I was instructed to attach it to the square metal hatch, but it will not pump from the bottom of the tank in this position and then I am making an opening....so, what did you guys do?%)

 

[broncodriver99]

It looks like you have the whole sending unit. I think the idea is to buy the bare pump and plumb it into one of the an fittings on the side of the tank. Is there a stud down in the tank to mount the pump at the bottom?

 

[broncodriver99]

This kit gives an idea of how the pump should be mounted. There are also some instructions included.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/ShermanTankEFIConversionkit/Bronco_EFI_Tanks

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, something's up with that option. I'm jealous with that super cool and factory looking pump module though!;D

But it doesn't look like it's going to work properly in the tank. As you suspect, it should normally go all the way to the bottom of the tank.
Nothing wrong with using a module that has it's own feed and return fittings of course, as you can cap off the existing ones in the tank. But this one also looks like you're expected not only make a hole, but one that would utilize a factory style recess for the module to sit in, and also come up with a solution to retaining it. This style normally utilizes that spin-on ring style mount with a retainer like this: , an o-ring seal, and the actual retainer for the ring to ratchet into.

Not sure how you would just make one of those up without lots of extra pieces included. Usually when that's done, someone goes to the junkyard and cuts the section out of a factory tank with the proper sized opening.
You can see in the kit instructions at the link broncodriver99 posted up that the as-designed way to connect an in-tank pump is to use the inner, built-in pickup tube to connect the pump to. It's where that S-shaped rubber hose comes in.

The module you have is super slick and looks like it might even be utilizing the factory style push-lock connectors. Which is cool and all. But also looks like you might be working with a 18 gallon tank instead of a 23 gallon one at that point.
It does look like it would only take some simple extensions to make it fit to the bottom however. But that's a lot of work and you'd still be stuck with how to attach the round ring top to the tank's plate. Glue-n-screw? Doubt it, but you never know.
I wonder if they normally do that in-house, or if this is simply an incorrect unit?
What do the instructions say?

Sorry you're running into this on a good long Bronco-work weekend, but at least you don't have long to wait before getting in touch.
For now it's looking like Beer:30 somewhere.

Good luck. Interested to see what they say.

Paul

 

[jagbucket]

you have to rewire the pump and hose to what is inside the tank. only using the pump and filter. hose clamped to the stud inside and longer hose to outlet/ inlet . could modify what you have but then you will have new penetrations to make in the hatch, easier to just do it as they suggest

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

Thanks BroncoDriver for the advice and the link. Those instructions are the best, I need to figure out how to do a search on the WH website for instructions in the future, even when I was dumb and bought another vendor's product on sale. Ugh!%)

Thanks Paul, once again, you are correct. I think they keep telling what I need for an 18 gallon tank, not the 23 I got. I went with a 20% off sale back at spring break, the EFI tank did not appear at my house until June. I had time to install it in April, May, but not June or July or August. There were no instructions with it, and when I asked, he was nice enough to forward some. Turns out the WH instructions for EFI tank install are exactly the same, just no WH logo . So that's what he sent me. Here's what it looked like when I pulled it out yesterday. Dented in on one side , pinged in on another, and was not washed out at all, lots of welding dust and the like inside. Yuck. Live and learn.

I like the WH set up, thought I could save some money from what I read online during the sale, now looks like I need to send back some parts to rock auto since they will not work on this tank. Ugh. If I can get my money back from RA, I'll definitely buy the WH conversion kit. Does it look like the WH conversion kit will go right in?;D

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes. It's the same tank basically.
You disconnect the standard external pump style pickup at that short section of hose and remove it and the bit of straight steel tubing and leave them out.
Connect the S-shaped hose and pump, clamp-ring with it's two studs through the holes in the baffle/mounting plate and away you go.
Just make sure it's tight!;D

If you want to know of any little pitfalls or tricks of the trade, give Cory a call or e-mail at Wild Horses. He's got the most experience assembling those things and testing sending units and such. He'll know what to look out for.

And speaking of sending units... Don't trust that it's going to read correctly with your gauge right out of the box. While it might, it's better to check ahead of time and know for sure.
Kind of like cleaning the tank. It's better to do it now, than to find out that stuff really does get past a filter and clog things upstream. Or that your sending unit and gauge can only reach half full or never ready fully empty!

So it's best to verify the position of the sending units and that they reach near the bottom and near the top of the tank in their sweep.
And best also to connect it to your wire and ground to verify that the full sweep actually reads where it should on the gauge. Then maybe even play with the location of the float to best reflect half-full/empty about where the vertical part in the rear ends and the ramp begins. Just thinking out loud since the number of gallons-per-inch gets less after that.

We test each and every sending unit to fall within the 72-10 ohm range (or whatever the exact numbers are) so that it fits into the factory original specifications. But that doesn't keep many of the customer's gauges from reading incorrectly once installed.
So check yours against your particular gauge, and adjust if necessary now. Before you install the tank.

In everyone's defense, gas tanks for some reason (money) are not cleaned (apparently) at the manufacturer level. Not in everyone's defense, they're rarely cleaned at the re-seller level for some reason (money) either.
Believe it or not we actually do clean ours, but even at that by necessity it must be a very cursory and quick vacuuming or blowing and shaking to get the really nasty bulk of it out. However, as we've all read about here over the many years that big tanks have been available, there is still some junk that gets past us often enough to be a pain to the customer.

Believe it or not too, most of our tanks actually ship pretty clean. But even the clean ones can still have some hidden powdery junk inside that settled down during shipping. So best to swish some cleaning solution around in there anyway. We just can't find every bit in the limited time we have to put them together and ship them to waiting customers. If they look clean, they best ship quick.
That's a classic cop-out I know. Money/time, money/time, money/time. But it's how it works and we're usually still way behind in our shipping of Shermans because the tanks bodies take so long to arrive sometimes. Just means we do what we can, but still need to get them out as soon as possible for your projects.

So swish some gas, or better yet water and soap, with a hose and a strong back and make sure yours is not one with "hidden gems" residing inside.
Sounds like yours needs that TLC more than most unfortunately.

Good luck with all that!

Paul

 

[PaveBronco]

Good post, been looking for a good EFI tank for a while, and based to the info I just pulled the trigger on one of your Sherman tanks.
Thanks Paul.

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

PaveBronco
Check out what some guys did with the AERO tanks, that may be an option for you. Nice Tanks, but if I had to do it over again, I'd get the Sherman too.

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks guys. Hope your all go in nice n easy, and work a treat. As Edd used to say...

Paul

 

[chuck]

Because of the baffles it is hard to get everything out of the tank without adding gas and UPS does not like to ship the tank after they have had gas in them. So we bang them around and vacuum them out and that gets most of the stuff out. We also check the full/empty ohms after install by checking the ohms while the tank is up right and up side down.
For carb apps we use a hose t go to the left front corner. For the EFI intank pump we mount the pump to the two studs on the baffle and use the provided S hose and EFI clamps.
It is always a good idea to put the grd and sending wire on the tank and check the gauge fore for full/empty before installing it. Use a couple of jumpers and turn the tank over.
PS the powdery stuff is oxidized aluminum from welding the aluminumized steel tank