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Bronco points.

jhill52

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
127
A month ago I was having setting the point and keeping my Bronco running. I was using Accel points. I read on here where several people said to only used Blue Streak points.

Before I removed the Accels I couldn't even get my Bronco to run. I got a set of Blue Streaks and installed them. I was able to easily set the points. When I went to start it it fired right up and has been working fine.

I want to thank everyone for the good advice.

Next step is to convert to a Duraspark setup but that will be next spring.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Like I've said before. Higher voltage isn't the most important thing with distributors. Proper advance curve is what matters most. You can get that with a point system. ;)
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,212
How many members on this forum have any idea what the centrifugal or vacuum advance curve are? Mostly I hear guys who can't articulate a reason why, throw money into some after market ignition that was designed for racing. Tho the rewards of a tuned ignition are far greater than any replacement parts, learning how to set up a distributor or even find the best initial timing is too much trouble. Buying an Accel,MSD,Pertronics,etc. is easier, even when no improvement realized.
The way people deal with carburetors is just as lazy. Even simple fixes on the 2100 or 2150 involve a little understanding and again learning is too much trouble. Then it's off to the after market. As a hot rod lover in the '60s I made the same mistakes. I didn't listen to people who knew better. I thought a bigger carb is always better: same with hotter cams, bigger valves, heads etc.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Do you really think that a tuned 40 year old ignition system is better than today’s after market system?

Not necessarily. All I'm saying is whichever distributor you use, it needs to have the advance curves properly set up for your particular cam and carb. Like jckkys stated, it seems people want to just throw on performance parts, out of the box, without any regard to proper setup. Then we have to hear all the complaints about someone's carb or distributor being junk when really it never was set up correctly.
 
OP
OP
J

jhill52

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
127
I know about ignition curve and timing neither of which applies. With the junk coming out of China I just thought the Acell points would work better. The distributor was stock Ford.

I am going to the Duraspark based on what I read here about dependabilty. I have had that system on other Fords with no problems.
 

americanhorses

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
1,139
Loc.
Clovis, California
I will agree that points/dwell/timing set correct, makes my bronco run GREAT. And is very easy once it's understood how it plays together. I did but a billit pertronics from WH because the old dist just wears out. I got a rebuilt with a lifetime warranty and got so I could just switch the dist in the parking lot...lol. I finnaly got a good one, been running it for 15 years. The pertronics claims better gas mileage and dependability, that's why I bought it. Any pros/cons on this would be great
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,212
The idea that new equals better and old is inferior originates at the manufacturer of new parts. The bushings can wear to a point that adversely effects the dwell on a point type distributor. The bushings are replaceable and inexpensive. They rarely wear out so almost all the junk yard samples will fix that problem. The original distributor can be adjusted in terms of the centrifugal and vacuum advance to perform better than any any after market part. Ford set them up to work in a all the same engines in the same applications. Individual engines need to have the timing curves adjusted to the needs of that engine in that vehicle to give optimum performance. The original distributor set to factory specs provides a starting point that is closer to the individual needs or your engine. The same is true of carbs. I can see going to a Duraspark for several reasons but no measurable improvement in performance will be seen with aftermarket ignitions on street vehicles. In fact a properly adjusted and rebuilt (if needed) Duraspark ignition is superior in every way to the after market. Of course I'm not considering the bling factor, but then I never do.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
Hey jhill. Congrats on getting it up and running again. Not sure why the Accel points would have been bad (maybe it was a condenser or they were just old?) but the good old Blue Streak have always worked well for me too.
I wonder if they're still made in the good 'ole USofA?

I've had great luck with Duraspark too, but not sure which way I'm leaning next.
If I go with a "standard" distributor, it will be a Mallory E-fire or Max-Fire unit. Built in MAP sensor and computer timing curves. Plus you can program the curves yourself.
But I'd really like to try a distributorless setup if I can.

I just found a very cool thing last night. For those not already equipped, Harbor Freight sells a pretty decent looking (and not inexpensive either!) Dwell/Tach meter with other functions such as testing voltage, continuity and diodes.
Nice little package for about 30 bucks. Well worth it for anyone still sporting points, that doesn't already have a dwell meter.

Thanks for that americanhorses. You should be happy with the Pertronix unit as long as it's hooked up properly and the rest of your system is set up right too.
Good idea on the stock dizzy as a spare as well. With the two of them, you'll get a good running engine that you don't have to deal with points-tweaking anymore, but can get back on the road in under 10 minutes if you do have a failure of some kind.

Just make sure you get a full 12 volts to the Ignitor's Red wire, and make sure that the distributor body has a good clean connection to the engine block for it's ground.
And of course, make sure your other grounding schemes for the vehicle are up-to-snuff as well.

Depending on the coil used, either leave your resistor wire in place for the positive side of the coil and get your distributor power from some other source.
If you have a full 12v coil, go ahead and hook it to the same power source as the dizzy, but leave the old wire ready in case you have to run on the old points distributor for any length of time.

I actually like to make my own ground jumper for electronic distributors. Yeah, they usually ground through the block just fine. But with all that old baked on oil and scum that can build up in the bore and around the distributor seat, an extra ground isn't going to hurt anything.

Have fun.

Paul
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
That's all fine Paul but that still doesn't address the issues of just throwing in a distributor without regard to the advance curves. I know all this sounds like a lot of extra work to most owners, but you won't believe the difference in driveability and smooth power. It's a matter of putting your time and $$$ into the right places.;)
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
That's all fine Paul but that still doesn't address the issues of just throwing in a distributor without regard to the advance curves.

You're right Mark. But in fact it was never my intention to address proper timing curves or take anything away from their benefits when I responded to jhill's happy running story and americanhorses' soon-to-be happy running without points story.
That can come later after they've had time to play a little.
And I could not have helped them anyway, since I don't have much in the way of helpful hints to offer on the subject. Or where in their area to take it to find a guy that still has, and is willing to dust off, his distributor machine.

Wasn't my intention of taking away anything from what they were already doing at the moment. Just wanted to add a high-five or two for one, and a few minor and simple alternate helpful hints for the other.

Nor of course, did I intend to gainsay what you said about the benefits of a good recurve. It's an acknowledged fact that it's a good thing to do. I never denied it in most cases. Either by opinion or omission.
It just didn't seem necessary to add to what you and jckkys had already said.


I know all this sounds like a lot of extra work to most owners, but you won't believe the difference in driveability and smooth power. It's a matter of putting your time and $$$ into the right places.;)

It is a lot of extra work for most. May even be beyond many Bronco owner's abilities and willingness these days. Many of whom are not so inclined, or who do not have the time, space and tools to get it done.
It's not that bad for someone who's used to messing with their stuff (or knows how to re-wind stators the size of a small house!), and who's had a distributor apart before. Can be done (and re-done) in a fairly short time once you've got the hang of it all and have a place to work on it.

But it's still a hit-and-miss proposition when you don't have someone giving you exact part numbers of parts to buy and which parts to use if there are multiple choices. And of having the rig down each time you decide to try again when it just doesn't feel right from the last time.

And it's only throwing your money at the right place if it's a good place to start with. If the existing distributor is a worn out piece of junk, buying a new distributor (rather than rebuilding your own for all the same reasons) isn't a bad option.
You can still recurve a new one in most cases of course. But I'd bet that most owners just want to put it in to see if it helped their issue.

Are you guys saying that you've never installed a new distributor without personally recurving it first? Even in a new-to-you vehicle? If not, then what's the problem with the others doing it too? Especially first-timers trying to get their EB up and running?
Or, perhaps if for no other reason than to get a baseline so they can have a good starting point of reference.

Or maybe it's to give them some good Summer Bronco-time with the family while they do a full rebuild and recurve of their old distributor? Nothing wrong with that in my book. That gives them time to find the right parts and or right person to do the work and time to work for the cash to pay someone to do it.

And a lot of people (the majority most likely) don't want to have anything to do with all that stuff. They just want to stab-n-go so to speak. No fancy fiddling, no guessing and experimenting several times hoping to get it right while their spouses threaten divorce if they don't stop messing with the Bronco and just get in the darn thing and drive the kids around in it.
Some owners want none of that. They may not get the best out of their equipment. But they're often perfectly happy with the results.

But that's why I like the two Mallory units I spoke of. For people that like to fiddle and take the time to personalize, you can pick from one of five different pre-programmed timing curves right out of the box. Or custom tune it yourself without installing a single new part. Just change the programming with your home computer and the included disk.

If you've never had more than the cap off of a distributor before though, and have no knowledge of the fact that you can buy spring kits and different weights, and source different cam plates for the mechanical advance from different junkyard donor cars and trucks, or how to disassemble a distributor and install all of that, or which combination of parts to start with based off of their limited knowledge of what would be best for their use, or how to adjust the vacuum advance limiters, but know your way around a computer running Windows, then all of the above are reasonable options.

Sorry Mark. Just never even occurred to me to mention it. ;D

Paul
 
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