...Good to know about the possible need for spacers. I do not have any yet, but am dead set on the US Mag racing slots when I get that far on my rebuild. Sounds like I will need spacers for them anyway on the 77 so I can just add it to the list (yes that list that grows not shrinks the more I do to the rig).
If you're sticking with the 15" wheel size, it's a tighter fit than a similar width and offset 16 or 17 inch wheel. In case either of those is an option with the style you're looking at. Since they're US slots, I'm guessing 15 only though.
I forget what choices (besides 9 or 10 inch wide) they have in backspacing, but if one of the choices is 3.5" that might make it easier.
Maybe stick to the Trail Proof steering. Same thickness tubing as the OEM steering so assume the stabilizer will bolt right up to it, although not sure with the change in geometry.
Their smallest tubing is still substantially larger in diameter than stock EB stuff. Theirs is 1 1/8" vs stock 66-75 EB at about 7/8" I want to say?
As far as the stabilizer shock is concerned then, you will still have to modify the brackets and/or u-bolts to fit the larger draglink. If you ever go with a dropped pitman arm (yes, even with only 2.5" of lift, it can help sometimes) you might need to drop the frame mounted bracket to have a better angle. Or just do what some do and leave it where it is so the shock has about a 15° down-bubble attitude.
Or do what most do and, like was mentioned, leave it off.
It's purely a lawyer thing.
Thanks for confirming that!
...fitting it on a Stock 76-77 knuckle can be a challenge, changing knuckles removes that challenge.
You could possibly kill a third bird with that same stone by purchasing a non-Ford version of the Reid knuckles. The reason is that even theirs is based on the '76/77 EB knuckle. So it has the exact same steering arm clearance issue as a stock one.
Maybe one of the ball-joint GM versions? Might be worth looking in to anyway.
...which is 4-6 less things to brake when I am hunting in the middle of nowhere S.Texas. No easy way to get help where I go down there and I am often alone, so trying to build mine up to be as bullet proof as possible.
A noble cause! And I'm just excited to see someone building a Bronco for off-highway use these days too. Most ain't no more...
Those Duffs look nice too. I have been reading up on the TREs vs Heims. Looks like the heims used by racers are pretty much disposable and would not be good for a regular use street rig. The info/testing from Bullet Proof (which I admit is likely going to be pretty biased) looks like their heims are made to last longer and stay tighter then the TREs. Not sure if thats true, so will definitely be looking for reviews and feedback on those as well before pulling the trigger on them.
Lots of feedback on there hereabouts. Should be easy enough to find plenty of discussions both ways I would think. The throwaway thing is true enough, but those are typically much smaller units than you see included in the kits sold around here. Not sure how many are using the super nice cryo-treated ones from Ruff Stuff, but those look nice too.
I still prefer a tapered stud tie-rod end myself, but don't want to automatically sell the SRE's short either, when they're properly sized and made for truck use.
Of course, I'm biased too, which is why I just gotta throw these in the mix for your consideration and viewing pleasure:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/CLYDESDALE-Tie-Rod-Drag-Link
So from the sounds of it- Reid 76-77 knuckles with BulletProof or Duff tie rod over knuckles should fit the stock 77 sway bar with the caveat that I may need to use spacers....which I plan to use anyway with the racing slot wheels.....cool. Got my work cutout for me.
Indeed! 'Gonna be fun though, right? ;D
Paul
