c4 flexplate issue

[Viperwolf1]

I would just pull it back 2 or 3 inches.

 

[diggs00]

I would just pull it back 2 or 3 inches.

I have a harbor freight trans scissor jack, what is best spot to place it to support both c4 and d20?

 

[Rustytruck]

Explain the starter bolt theory to me please.

if you use starter bolts too long contacting the flex plate as it spins.

 

[Viperwolf1]

if you use starter bolts too long contacting the flex plate as it spins.

Also can't happen on SBF.

I have a harbor freight trans scissor jack, what is best spot to place it to support both c4 and d20?

Balance point would be near rear of C4/front of adapter. Might need some wood blocks to level it and good straps to cinch it tight.

 

[72_EB]

I have seen the dimpled plates before. They only seem to have issues with the 50 oz. balance weights. You will need to remove it to fix but you could just cut out the dimples and re-install it. Hammering is likely to distort the plate.

That's an interesting observation with the 50oz plates and the stock dimpled bell housing plate, Viper. I've seen them contact here too.

 

[Rustytruck]

Also can't happen on SBF.



Balance point would be near rear of C4/front of adapter. Might need some wood blocks to level it and good straps to cinch it tight.

Good to know now you need to pull the tranny back.

 

[72_EB]

Also can't happen on SBF.

Yeah, shouldn't be issue with the bellhousing starter mount, but longer bolts aren't good for going past the housing for later removal anyway.

That's a separate fun issue of all the factory 1/4" increment bolts from Ford that we can't find easily new for other issues. So Rusty was just trying to save some future pain for the next issue. ;D

 

[diggs00]

UPDATE:

Prep:
Dropped exhaust, dropped driveshafts (just where they connect to d20, bungeed them up to frame), removed all necessary coolant lines (at trans only, bungeed them up to frame out of way), removed fill tube (dumped trans fluid), loosened passenger header (so bell housing could clear in my case).

Transmission Jack prep:
Grabbed a piece or cardboard made a template for the C4 pan bump, then translated it to a 12x12x2 wood block. Jigsawed out the a hole for the pan bump. Bolted wood block to trans jack then set the jack so center line was under adapter. Ratchet strapped the body of trans (just behind shift levers) to the jack. Trans is now fully supported by jack.

More prep:
Removed inspection plate cover to get at the Torque converter nuts. Had to stick flat head screw driver in flexplate teeth so the flexplate would not move when I remove the nuts. I removed one nut then used a remote starter to turn the crank so I could get the next nut in line (took spark plug wires off dizzy before doing this. I used this method cause I didn't want to remove the radiator with new coolant, fan and shroud).
On torque converter nut install, not sure how I am gonna do this. Would it hurt anything if I get 1 nut on then remote start to get the remaining 3 nuts on?

After the Torque Converter nuts were out I removed the starter.

Removed crossmember from crossmember supports (thought I could get-away with just removing this), had to remove crossmember supports (cleaned those up and painted also while there). Removed the 6 bell housing bolts. We have separation from motor!

James Duff J shifter:
I had no idea how to remove this so I removed the knob and lowered the trans so the lever would slide down out of the boot and clear the body ( I have a 2" body lift, I think this helped). Once jack is lowered I saw the 2 bolts holding the J shift lever and removed them (so easy).

Transmission is out:
C4 is lowerd and moved out of the way, bell housing would not clear the frame so I had to roll it back so the tail stuck out just behind the driver door. Wish I could get it out under the truck and clean it.


Now for the purpose for all this:
Removed the flexplate bolts. I did this by using a steering wheel puller. Put a bellhousing bolt through the puller and into one of the bell housing holes. I put another bolt through the puller and the flexplate hole where a torque converter post goes through. This prevented the flexplate from turning while I took out the flexplate bolts. With the flexplate off and the bellhousing separator plate removed I just cleaned up the metal glitter mess created from the flexplate rubbing against the bellhousing separator plate (remember my plate had dimples - the cause of all this).


Here is a pic of the flexplate damage: ( the black stuff is rtv from flexplate bolts)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TSDM0eYLTuHCdbZ8FC_4H8qCAaIl-Of0/view?usp=sharing
You think this flexplate is safe to use? I really don't want to throw this thing out. I stupidly paid way too much for it.

Here is a pic of the bellhousing separator plate damage:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g6a0wM8xptQUZeTHDk9VOlZb5L4Gh7um/view?usp=sharing


UP NEXT
Cut the dimples out of the bellhousing separator plate. Should I patch these holes or just leave it open?

 

[Rustytruck]

the dimpling of the flex plate converter bolt holes done look good either. I would expect those to be nice and flat.

 

[diggs00]

the dimpling of the flex plate converter bolt holes done look good either. I would expect those to be nice and flat.

no dimple there, image makes it look like it has a depression

 

[CA650]

Make sure the flex plate is for a newer engine. The blueprint 306 takes the newer 50 oz flexplate. I will check the part number when I get to the house. I had the same issue on mine when I installed it. The flexplate on the old style engines is thicker. The new style is thinner. I caught mine while bolting it up. It will lock the torque converter up because of that millimeter difference

hmm makes me wonder if I bought the right flexplate. I have the 302 old motor from 74 with the 28oz balancer and flex on an AOD transmission does anyone know what the thickness should be? the sound is a wizzing sound when it runs, haven’t seen any shavings

 

[diggs00]

hmm makes me wonder if I bought the right flexplate. I have the 302 old motor from 74 with the 28oz balancer and flex on an AOD transmission does anyone know what the thickness should be? the sound is a wizzing sound when it runs, haven’t seen any shavings

open up the inspection plate and see if you have contact marks on the flexplate

 

[diggs00]

Cut the dimples out , time for install. (@Viperwolf1 Should I patch these holes or just leave it open??)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eN-0QE_UJtcElD6QmVU2INKDzMlUElEr/view?usp=sharing

 

[Rustytruck]

Cut the dimples out , time for install
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eN-0QE_UJtcElD6QmVU2INKDzMlUElEr/view?usp=sharing

should be good to go now. double check to make sure that your converter is turned all the way in before you bolt it up.

 

[diggs00]

hmm makes me wonder if I bought the right flexplate. I have the 302 old motor from 74 with the 28oz balancer and flex on an AOD transmission does anyone know what the thickness should be? the sound is a wizzing sound when it runs, haven’t seen any shavings

164 teeth on flexplate?

 

[CA650]

flexplate

open up the inspection plate and see if you have contact marks on the flexplate

I opened it this am. I dropped the oil pan out and looked inside.
didn’t see any contact or metal shavings

took a few photos

 

[diggs00]

uggggg!! I need help


Motor: blueprint 306 (bronco edition)

Hey guys, looking to find a 50oz external 164 tooth flexplate for my c4 (76 bronco pan fill). Current setup not working (flexplate will not fit onto Torque converter bolts (only 2 will go through) and the plate will not allow the pilot to reach the crank shaft. Hughes says these two parts work together but this is not the truth. I would like to keep the Torque converter and just find a flexplate that works.

NOTE: My stock 28oz flexplate fits correctly on this Hughes Torque converter.

Motor: blueprint 306
Trans: stock c4 (pan fill)
Flexplate: Hughes HP4397 - 164 Tooth Externally Balanced 50-oz. 4 x 11.50-inch bolt pattern
Torque Converter: Hughes F42XTM