C4 loosing power

[lowbush]

So I got one for your guys, I took the Bronco out today for the first real test drive after getting the transmission built and I have a strange issue going on, the truck shifts fine but if I run it up to the high gear it seems like it does not want to shift out of it, when I stop and then try to go, it just crawls until it gets up to speed, now if I stop after getting up to the high gear and put it in reverse and run it backwards a little bit and then go forward again, it picks right up and I never loose power again until I feel if shift into high gear and then I have to drop it into reverse again. Does that sound like any symptoms any of you guys are familiar with? Other than that the thing ran like a champ, I put it thru some deep holes out in Holopaw and it swam right thru them.

 

[jckkys]

Something in the valve body or governor isn't functioning. You'll have to take it back to the re-builder and have them make thing right.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Are you saying it isn't downshifting when coming to a stop? What happens if you downshift manually?

 

[lowbush]

Something in the valve body or governor isn't functioning. You'll have to take it back to the re-builder and have them make thing right.

The rebuilder would be me, it's a brand new valve body from Broader, and I personally rebuilt the governor I am certain that it is moving freely. I think I am going to pull the valve body and replace it with the one I personally rebuilt, but Broader's work is top notch so I would be surprised if it is the valve body, but it's worth a shot.

 

[lowbush]

Are you saying it isn't downshifting when coming to a stop? What happens if you downshift manually?

It seemed like it is not downshifting, the time I got it out I did so by putting it in reverse, but it also comes out if I shut the truck off, I need to test if it comes out if I just put it in park, but if I am just idling at a stop light it does not seems to downshift and crawls up to speed. I did drop it to first and try to get it to move but it still had no pickup, that is when I put it in reverse and then it had full power again. It is pretty hard shifting into the direct drive as well, but I know Broaders bodies have a pretty quick shift on them, but just trying to relay all the details.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I would try another valve body. Didn't you put some extra clutches in the direct drum?

 

[lowbush]

I would try another valve body. Didn't you put some extra clutches in the direct drum?

Yep, I put in the Broader drum that was cut for extra clutches. I am running 6.

 

[74strokerbronco]

which VB did you get from jay? I believe all he sells are full manuals? if so drive becomes third gear only at all times and you must manually select 1st or 2nd for downshifts.

 

[lowbush]

which VB did you get from jay? I believe all he sells are full manuals? if so drive becomes third gear only at all times and you must manually select 1st or 2nd for downshifts.

No I just got the auto, and it definitely upshifts in drive but it does not downshift, I am running a some extra fluid in it, just for the break-in, but I don't think that would affect it, I am thinking the Dana 20 is going to have to come off and take another look at the governor, it was stuck when I rebuilt it, but I had it rattling around in there pretty good before I reinstalled it. I do have a valve body that I know is good, so I am going to try that first, correct me if I am wrong but my understanding of the governor is it controls shifting both ways, correct? I seem to be finding a lot of articles on the web pointing to the governor for this problem. The only other oddity I had was that I did not have a modulator pin so I cut one out of stainless welding rod, I know it is the right length but I don't know if it is the right diameter, it may be a little thinner than the real deal. Thats the only thing out of the ordinary that I can think of with this rebuild. I am wondering if it's worth trying out one of those transmission lubes to see if it, unsticks something, before I start tearing it apart.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Governor helps control down shifts too.

Pin is probably ok. Might have the primary governor valve in backwards.

 

[lowbush]

Governor helps control down shifts too.

Pin is probably ok. Might have the primary governor valve in backwards.

Possibly, I know I triple checked that thing because it was sticking when I pulled it, if the valve body does not cure it, I will pull the governor and check it out.

 

[DJs74]

Any chance the kickdown lever is causing a problem (bound / bent / something rubbing on it)


DJs74

 

[lowbush]

Any chance the kickdown lever is causing a problem (bound / bent / something rubbing on it)


DJs74

Don't have one on it. I am trying to get it running right before I add that one to the mix.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Any chance the kickdown lever is causing a problem (bound / bent / something rubbing on it)


DJs74

No chance.

 

[lowbush]

OK, so dragging this back up again, I just took the Bronco out for it's second maiden voyage after pulling the T-Case and going over the governor again, so it is without a doubt not the governor, I cleaned it and polished it until both pistons drop right in and rattle freely. So here is what I am thinking, Broader does a lot of Full Manual Valve bodies, I wonder what are the chances that I ended up with a full manual by chance. Does anyone know if there is a tell tale way to distinguish a full manual from a automatic. I have another valve body that I was going to rebuild and sell, but I am thinking that I am going to rebuild it and swap it in. The one I have it really acts like a full manual, the only difference is D starts out in first, but once it hit's 3 it stays there until I manually shift it to first.