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C4 REBUILD - BwoncoHowie Specs

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sprdv1

sprdv1

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Oh look, some prices.. ;D

1 - 26006C REBUILD KIT WITH STEELS $42.41
1 - 26022BHD FRONT BAND (solid non flex type) $33.74 – I can get an R26022B BAND, C4 INTERM RIGID 2.100" WIDE(1965-67) - relined - I would Have to order it in
1 - A26912 REAR SERVO PISTON $5.98
1 - 26036A BUSHING, FRONT STATOR $1.61
1 - 26037 BUSHING, REAR STATOR $1.49
1 - 26010D OIL FILTER SCREEN $3.25 – would have to order in
1 - 36034B ** PUMP BUSHING C-6 $ .68

1 - A26530 PUMP GEAR SET, C-4/C-5 $15.97
1 - 26046A DIRECT DRUM BUSHING $9.20
2 - 26052 BUSHINGS, SUN GEAR $1.86 each
1 - 26064 BUSHING, TRANSMISSION CASE $1.47
1 - 26160G MODULATOR, C4/C5 GREEN STRIPE $11.22
1 - A26654K SPRAG KIT, C-4/C-5 SPR & ROLLER KIT $4.96

1 – Flexplate ATC# F200 $27.14
 
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sprdv1

sprdv1

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Tracked that seal down in California for $15.00 but if I can find one from someone more local for the same price that would be preferable.

Thanks again

What company for the seal...?
 

chuzie

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Jul 21, 2006
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http://www.gounitrax.com/

they were confused why I wanted that particular seal (CR 18676) for a C4 since it is a double sided seal. They said it crossed to a National 473179 which is a since sided seal. I couldn't give them an answer and just told them it was on my parts list.
 
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sprdv1

sprdv1

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Crap, that's what I was looking for was unitrax, ( per BH ), but never could find it..

Thanks Chuzie....
 

chuzie

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Still waiting for Transtar to get back with me for my parts. Guess the little guy is low on the priority list. Considering hitting up a local tranny show tomorrow and inquire about parts instead of going through Transtar. I am sick of waiting. I have a tranny on the floor in the garage waiting for a rebuild.

Ok. Done venting. Thanks.
 
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sprdv1

sprdv1

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LOL.. I hear ya.. She may be busy... Try giving her a call...or the local shop there...
 

chuzie

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Ok. Measured the case end play clearance and with the feeler gage I am showing slightly greater than the upper limit of .042 so at about .045. It looks like I will be waiting for my dial indicator to get here so I can confirm this issue. If I do end up having too much gap I have to option of obtaining different thicknesses of no.1 and no.2 thrust washers for a fix which leads me to a few questions.

1. Are the thrush washers considered a wear item in these units? If not, what component is wearing and causing this out of limits gap.

2. If the thrust washer is a wear item, should I try and get the specs for my current washers and mic them to confirm they are worn down?

3. If I go get new thrust washers, what combination should I purchase? Do they come in a matched set based on thickness or am I piece mealing this to get my own desired thickness? If piecemeal, should I go for a no.1 that is thicker than the no.2 or vice-versa?

4. What thickness washer or better yet what end play do I want to try and achieve. There is a lot of limit in here .008-.042.
 
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BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
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3,571
Ok. Measured the case end play clearance and with the feeler gage I am showing slightly greater than the upper limit of .042 so at about .045. It looks like I will be waiting for my dial indicator to get here so I can confirm this issue. If I do end up having too much gap I have to option of obtaining different thicknesses of no.1 and no.2 thrust washers for a fix which leads me to a few questions.

1. Are the thrush washers considered a wear item in these units? If not, what component is wearing and causing this out of limits gap.

2. If the thrust washer is a wear item, should I try and get the specs for my current washers and mic them to confirm they are worn down?

3. If I go get new thrust washers, what combination should I purchase? Do they come in a matched set based on thickness or am I piece mealing this to get my own desired thickness? If piecemeal, should I go for a no.1 that is thicker than the no.2 or vice-versa?

4. What thickness washer or better yet what end play do I want to try and achieve. There is a lot of limit in here .008-.042.

1. yes
2. dont waste your time with a mic, invest in a thrust washer kit and replace them all new.
3. the only washers that are selective thickness from the factory are the first two in the front of the trans.
4. Reset the end play to around .008" to .018" the closer to .008" the better, making sure the direct drum spins free with the least amount of play when you press down on the fwd drum while both drums are stacked on the pump. performing this simple check will keep you from selecting a #1 plastic washer that is too thick.

a) The #2 small bronze washer is responsible for the overall unit end play, which you adjust first.

b) The #1 plastic washer adjusts the direct drum end play only and should not be used in any other fashion.
~bh~
 

chuzie

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a) The #2 small bronze washer is responsible for the overall unit end play, which you adjust first.

b) The #1 plastic washer adjusts the direct drum end play only and should not be used in any other fashion.
~bh~

How do I determine the direct drum endplay? Just by feel or is there a measurement I can take?

Right now my endplay is at .005 with a #1 thrust washer of .069 and a #2 of .091.

I guess I need to go find a smaller #2 to fix this issue. Maybe a .074 or .057 will be the ticket.

Thx.
 

BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
3,571
How do I determine the direct drum endplay? Just by feel or is there a measurement I can take?

Right now my endplay is at .005 with a #1 thrust washer of .069 and a #2 of .091.

I guess I need to go find a smaller #2 to fix this issue. Maybe a .074 or .057 will be the ticket.

Thx.


What is your overall endplay measurement for the unit? Remember changing the #2 washer will change the overall play, which is important.
.005" is ok for the DD end play. A feeler gauge or dial indicator can be used for the DD check.

What are the numbers stamped on the backs of the washers you are now using?
 

chuzie

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
2,697
I got my endplay (at the input shaft with a dial indicator) to .012 with a .119 #1 and a .072 #2. I started with the largest #1 and got the endplay into limits by varying the #2. I then changed the #1 to get closer to the lower end of the limit. I can't recall the numbers on the back and unfortunately I installed them before I read your post.

All the air checks were fine but I was a little concerned that the air check for the governor produced odd results and this is why. You are supposed to run air from the governor outlet port and it is supposed to dither but even with high psi it did nothing except vent air through the inlet port. It was not until I plugged the inlet port that the dithering occurred. So this tells me the valves are moving but I am worried that something may be wrong since I had to plug the inlet to get it to work. Any thoughts?

Let me know if you think I am doing something wrong with the endplay and I can easily pull the washers back out. Better to do it right now than fix something I broke later down the road.
 
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