Can I do this myelf? Painting question

[canadabronco]

I know I can do it but am I getting myself in too deep for a rookie....

I want to paint my bronco the same color as all the Ford trucks that are the dark grey. Ford calls the color "Dark Shadow Grey Pri Clearcoat" Color code CX.

I have the body painted with rattle can self etching primer. I would like to paint it myself. I have a paint system and use of a tent.

I don't know where to start. What primer do I start with and then what paint and clearcoat do I use? I feel I can do a good job because I have a feel for painting. I just don't know how many coats and what type of paints do I order.

I know this is a pretty general type question but any guidance would be so much appreciated.

Thanks everyone

 

[grant_71]

First thing is to make sure the primer wont react with whatever type of topcoat you are using.

Second, is that a mettallic silver gray? If so I was told that is the hardest color to shoot, I used silver metallics on my bronco II and my sis' car with pretty devent results considering he fact I was 15 and the shop warmed up to a whopping 45 degrees.

I am not so sure abou the use of a tent, seems liek that could drop a lot of fuz in your paint, maybe cover the inside of the tent walls with visquine? What type of floor in the tent? You would be suprised the dust that can be kicked up by a paint gun on a "clean"floor.

As far as paint types and coats.....I have used both PPG and Dupont Nason Fulthane 2K, I prefer the Dupont, I used about 3-4 coats of primer with a good wetsand in between, and then two coats of color, no final wetsand, and no clearcoat...that is just the way Ihave done my previous paintings. I am sure a lot of this is wrong....ask 2bad, he is a bodyman, and could give you some more tips.

Grant

 

[MI-Bronco]

grant's right, 2bad is our paint god!!!

Somethimes these things are personal preference.

I prefer PPG. I've used base coat clear coat because you can always clean up your mistakes.

Tent idea doesn't sound good to me - sounds like it might be too small - not enough room to work and might cause problems during painting.

I would talk to folks at a local paint supply place to get some different ideas and use this forum to help get ideas of what worked for us.

My main comment - and I am sure 2bad will say the same thing:

WEAR A RESPIRATOR WHEN YOU PAINT!!!

 

[Unregistered]

The officer who came out to verify my VIN, for registration is in the process of restoring a 46 rols limo. anyway, he also owns a construction business and occasionally need to repaint his machinery. what he does, for a 'paint booth' is to seal the truck in visquine, on one side of the truck seal a paint filter, on the other side seal in a box fan blowing in. after this is done and the 'booth' is sealed well n good, cut an entry, take yer spray gun, reseal the whole you cut - with you inside, and paint to your hearts content. when you are done, simply cut your way out, reseal and allow to set overnight. he said that is the cleanest way he has found to paint a vehicle. he also noted: 1. wear proper safety equipment - respirator, mask, etc., 2. use filters with your compressor to remove the water from the compressed air - otherwise the paint will not bond properly in spots all over the painted area.

I'm not a paint expert, i don't even completely understand everything i wrote, but that's what he told me and it sounds like a good idea. you paint experts can commend or condemn the idea, just thought i'd pass it along.

LS

 

[ken75ranger]

Add a filter to the incoming air to keep stuff from getting in your paint.

 

[2badrotties]

Paint it with a brush and you won't have to worry about all of this stuff ;D .


Just messin with ya. I paint in my dirty garage without too many problems. I sweep and blow it out the night before and wet the floor before I paint. I have never used a tent before but Madgyver has . I have painted outside though. Early in the morning on a NON-windy day.

Materials - All materials can get you good results if you follow directions. PPG, Dupont, and NAPA sells some pretty good products. I know people say a lot of things about " don't mix products " but people mix different brands all the time. Just make sure you use products as in the directions. EXAMPLE - if using a base coat , use that companies reducer which sometimes has a stabilizer in it to keep the base from blotching up when clear is applied. BUT, you can use anyones clear over anyones base without a problem. I know a lot of people who use one companies base but another companies clear for different reasons. NAPA's tech-base covers very well, some of PPG's base colors cover terrible for some reason. Dupont's croma-base works pretty well. Spies Hecker is a german paint that is very good. They ALL work. CLEAR - here is the problem - There are so many clears out there and all of them have a different purpose. Some of them are to be used in a bake booth, some of them work well in a dirty shop where the clear must air dry. PPG has a clear called 3000 clear that will air dry and be able to be wetsanded and buffed in two hours , no shit ! That is a nice clear to use if dirt is a problem because it dries fast so you have less chance of getting dirt in it while it dries. The problem with this clear is that if you do want to sand and buff it, you better do it SOONER rather than later. If it sits and dries for a couple of days , you really are going to have to work at buffing it. IT GETS HARD ! PPG's " omni " line has a "quick clear" that is fast but hard to buff later on. NAPA has a " econo-body " line and they have a nice inexpensive urethane clear that holds up pretty well. Buffs very nice even after a couple of days. There are a LOT of choices in clears.

The good thing about todays urethane products is the fact that if you do mess up, you can fix it without too much trouble. The COST of materials may shock you though. If you shop around you can buy pretty good products at a pretty good price. Believe me when I tell you that you do not have to use PPG's primer just because you are going to use PPG's paint. The same for goes for clear.

TAKE YOUR TIME is the best advice you can get. Your prep is THE MOST IMPORTANT part of your paint job. If you paint over a black-top road, it is still going to look like a black-top road when it is finished. Use lots of wax and grease remover, tack-rags, blow gun, and anything else in your power to make sure your truck is clean and ready to be painted. Use a disposable filter on your spray gun as well as the filter on your compressor.

Pride in doing it your self is great but sometimes you have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. Paying someone to paint it if you have it ready to shoot isn't that bad, usually under $200 to tape it and spray it if you have the materials. Good luck and sorry this turned out so long of a reply.

 

[vap13]

I pretty much paint the same as 2badrotties.I just use my garage and cover the walls with visqueen. I have a fan in one window and just leave the garage door cracked open at the bottom for ventilation.
Today I painted my grill,liftgate, windshield frame and other various parts outside early in the morning. In south Florida the humidity is pretty high this time of year so I can't do it to early but before the sun gets to high.
I use a Dupont Nason urethane primer and topcoat with the old Dupont Acrylic enamal that I add a gloss hardner to. There are alot of newer paints out there but I like the single stage for ease of use.It does take time and a few oh (shts ), but when your done you can feel pretty good about it, hopefully. I'm certainly no pro, I usually don't paint for years before my next project.
Like the others make sure you use a good respirator, Auto paint fumes will get you. Also if you have a gas hot water heater or anything with a pilot light make sure you turn it off !!
Paul